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Have not been using the block heater so as to check the trucks cold start condition since doing the IP, injectors, return lines, gp's, and new gp connectors. It turns over slowly [starter] for a bit then fires right up. It doesn't go right to high idle so it smokes too much like it's choking on fuel. Tach is bouncing between 500 and 750. Give it a little pedal then everything settles out. Also noticed when it fired, hood was up, a puff of white smoke from engine bay. The high idle plunger is making contact with the throttle so thats working. Would an adjustment to the high idle solenoid be in order since it's on a new pump?
Second issue is the TPS. I had to grind the heads off the froze screws to get that off the old pump and marked it as best I could to match the setting. Shift is fine everywhere except low throttle. RPM's seem to get a bit high before it will want to shift and it seems a little hard.
You should step on the fuel pedal first after key on and before starting after the WTS light goes out. You could cycle the GPs twice before going to start also.
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To set FIPL to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle) shut off the engine.
Now with "Key On Engine Off". First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.
If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.
Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.
If the starter is fubar then replace it..... if you can count engine rpms it's too slow.
smoke from under the hood might be the downpipe leaking.mine does the same thing.i havent gotten around to fixing it.not looking forward to it i always snap exhaust bolts off.
I set the high idle with the pedal when I turned on the key, just doesn't seem to be high enough and with the tach bouncing got me wondering. Temp's in the 20's shouldn't need a second cycle. Major improvement since the work, as I said fine tuning. Can the plunger be adjusted?
Good tip with the paper clip! Wasn't getting a good connection with the meter probe when I went to check the setting.
Yeah the starter has taken a beating the last few years with the 1108's always going out. Got any suggestions for a quality replacement? Thanks.
If you are only getting a few of white smoke it is probably sealing with expansion the old cummins were notorious for this with that 3 piece manifold, the colder it it the worse it is. I noticed my detroit doing this yesterday where the pipe clamps on the turbo so it clears up in less than a minute but if it leaves a black streak the dot gods will get me so I got a new clamp.
If you are only getting a few of white smoke it is probably sealing with expansion the old cummins were notorious for this with that 3 piece manifold, the colder it it the worse it is. I noticed my detroit doing this yesterday where the pipe clamps on the turbo so it clears up in less than a minute but if it leaves a black streak the dot gods will get me so I got a new clamp.
I couldn't see where it was coming from. It was doing it noticeably before the work. Figured it was blowing out the bad return caps and orings but all that's been replaced now. I wonder if it's puffing out an exhaust leak. That would make sense given the amount coming out the tailpipe. I am trying to get her set where it should be, that is push and release the pedal the set the high idle and then turn it over without touching the pedal.