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Did you delete EGR / EGR Cooler? Turned off EGR via SCT
If not, check for a bad EGR cooler first.
If it is bad, consider dumping the EGR Cooler and Oil Cooler at same time.
Then add coolant filter.
I'm gonna try and have this work done under warranty. When they installed the ARP's, they said I was not voiding the 100k warranty. So, I won't be able to get rid of the EGR cooler at the same time. I can do those things right after though because the warrant will have run out.
How will the coolant filter help with future HG problems? Not challenging, just don't know.
Did you delete EGR / EGR Cooler? Turned off EGR via SCT
If not, check for a bad EGR cooler first.
If it is bad, consider dumping the EGR Cooler and Oil Cooler at same time.
Then add coolant filter.
I'm gonna try and have this work done under warranty. When they installed the ARP's, they said I was not voiding the 100k warranty. So, I won't be able to get rid of the EGR cooler at the same time. I can do those things right after though because the warrant will have run out.
How will the coolant filter help with future HG problems? Not challenging, just don't know.
Thanks!
Highest probability is you have a leaking EGR cooler blowing exhaust gas into the cooling system.
If they are doing warranty replacement, talk them into replacing the oil cooler.
The issue is likely casting sand plugging up one or both... and overheating.
Then add a proper coolant filter to clean the system of crud.
Replace filter regularly.
9 chance out of 10, there is nothing wrong with your head gaskets unless it was improperly installed the first time.
With 99600 if you are not buying ESP,warranty preservation is not a consideration. In any event ESP or not,a new oil cooler is a no brainer even if you have to buy it out of pocket for them to install. Without ESP,I would try every way possiable to delete or replace egr cooler with aftermarket while it is apart.
Always have the heads done, checking for flatness is a long shot. Not that this could be your problem, rule out everything before tearing into the heads again. Always check the block for flatness but send the heads out. Just my opinion.
LOL... my truck is getting a coolant filter when ambient temperature rises to 65 degrees on a cold day again. (Spring).
I am going to kludge one from NAPA and Home Depot parts.
Someone else on here have done that ... quite successfully.
Got the ball valves from HD or Lowes....
That is how I did mine on my F250 .. Put the filter on the frame just about under the front pax feet. Two ball valves at the filter make changing easy. One addition was a small marine fuel filter in the return line. It has a clear glass cylinder so you can see the fluid passing through. You can easily remove the filter element so only the glass area is there to view. Available at West Marine or most marina's System works great, my puking was due to a plugged oil cooler. It was also turning on the engine fan if under any kind of load. Now fan never runs and system works perfectly. Coolant is a clear golden color.
Check out this link....this is why it so important to add the coolant filter and bebuild your oil cooler when you get the chance....then add the coolant filter.
I'm with the many others thinking that it is a failing EGR cooler. I would talk to the service advisor or the diesel tech and see if they wouldn't change the EGR cooler and valve and engine oil cooler when they are in there (after the EGR cooler has been determined to be failing).
Then when you get the truck back, install a coolant filter.
Hopefully the new oil cooler, egr valve and egr cooler will last another 99600 miles. Then if it fails and you still own the truck, you can delete the EGR system.
When they did the HG the first time, the EGR cooler was sent out for some kind of cleaning/testing. At the time, they told me that was standard procedure. I imagine that that will be the case again.
It seems to me if the EGR cooler has caused a HG failure, I should do an EGR delete as soon as I get the truck back. My primary concern is that this HG job will be under warranty, but if it fails again after 20k miles, it's on my dime. My goal is to make this engine durable for the long haul. Is that possible?
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