Vin location
#3
Back when I was looking for my vin number on the chassis I had a list of a lot of locations where they had been found at. Even with a bare chassis it can be hard to find. While I was wire brushing the rust off I came across my on the crossmember behind the radiator on the rightside. With the old paint and rust they can be hard to see and find.By the way my is a 56 One location I've heard more then most is on top of the right rail between the front axle and mid way of the door.
#5
Check out the thread at this link:
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/914344-new-member-here-have-a-few-questions.html
There is a discussion of VIN locations there and some photos.
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/914344-new-member-here-have-a-few-questions.html
There is a discussion of VIN locations there and some photos.
#7
Looks like I am to need a hobbit with a wire wheel grinder ! I do not have the glove door, is there one on the firewall ?? I have a 56 frame in the back yard and I found 8 #s on it not the 11 you need for a full vin, so I know where to look, the only problem is there is a hood and a motor in the way on the 54!!
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#8
Looks like I am to need a hobbit with a wire wheel grinder ! I do not have the glove door, is there one on the firewall ?? I have a 56 frame in the back yard and I found 8 #s on it not the 11 you need for a full vin, so I know where to look, the only problem is there is a hood and a motor in the way on the 54!!
#9
Looks like I am to need a hobbit with a wire wheel grinder ! I do not have the glove door, is there one on the firewall ?? I have a 56 frame in the back yard and I found 8 #s on it not the 11 you need for a full vin, so I know where to look, the only problem is there is a hood and a motor in the way on the 54!!
Last edited by fking1; 12-29-2009 at 12:05 PM. Reason: double post
#10
This isn't unusual. Some frames were stamped with a partial vin, identifying the only the year, assembly plant, and consecutive unit number. Apparently, some of the other, less legal information was deemed unnecessary.
#12
Was it the same as the one on the glove box door, and did you run it through the FTE VIN decoder:
VIN Number Decoder offer to you by Ford Trucks Enthusiasts | www.ford-trucks.com
Edit Note: I did and the decoder won't digest it.
So: F10D4L-12077
F10 = F-100 (in the parts catalogues, this truck is represented by the letter "C" by the way)
D = 226 cu/in ohv 6 cylinder engine
4 = 1954
L = Long Beach, California Assembly Plant
12077 = The production number of the truck. Those started at 10000 so yours was the 2077th one made that year.
VIN Number Decoder offer to you by Ford Trucks Enthusiasts | www.ford-trucks.com
Edit Note: I did and the decoder won't digest it.
So: F10D4L-12077
F10 = F-100 (in the parts catalogues, this truck is represented by the letter "C" by the way)
D = 226 cu/in ohv 6 cylinder engine
4 = 1954
L = Long Beach, California Assembly Plant
12077 = The production number of the truck. Those started at 10000 so yours was the 2077th one made that year.
#13
The glove box door is gone ! Have a red one off eBay to install with no #......dad is going to AAA today to see what he can do to register it. I told him if he can get the plates to put my name on the title with his.
Your VIN number: F10D4L12077
Your Model Year is: 1954.
Truck Series: F-100 Conventional
Engine: O.H.V. 6 Cylinder-223 cid
Assembly on: Long Beach
Your's vehicle unique number: 12077
Your VIN number: F10D4L12077
Your Model Year is: 1954.
Truck Series: F-100 Conventional
Engine: O.H.V. 6 Cylinder-223 cid
Assembly on: Long Beach
Your's vehicle unique number: 12077
#14
California!
If you have a title for it you will be fine.
But, if you don't have the title, they are going to make you take it up to the DMV for a VIN check. And they are going to insist on using the one you found on the frame.
I'd strongly suggest that if you don't have it already, you join AAA for $47 to have them do the check and the paper work. And here's why.
If you have to do this you can carefully (not to get caught by the cops having no plates) drive it up to AAA and have the check done and walk out with the plates.
If the plates on it are current, you have 20 days from the purchase date to get them switced and can drive on them. Also, they are going to charge you 8.5% state sales tax on your purchase price. So unless you have a reciept documenting the sale amount, you might think about that . Me, I lied.
If you do that at the DMV the CHP officer is going to write you a ticket. They expect you to trailer it in. AAA doesn't care.
Plus the time wait is about half.
If you have a title for it you will be fine.
But, if you don't have the title, they are going to make you take it up to the DMV for a VIN check. And they are going to insist on using the one you found on the frame.
I'd strongly suggest that if you don't have it already, you join AAA for $47 to have them do the check and the paper work. And here's why.
If you have to do this you can carefully (not to get caught by the cops having no plates) drive it up to AAA and have the check done and walk out with the plates.
If the plates on it are current, you have 20 days from the purchase date to get them switced and can drive on them. Also, they are going to charge you 8.5% state sales tax on your purchase price. So unless you have a reciept documenting the sale amount, you might think about that . Me, I lied.
If you do that at the DMV the CHP officer is going to write you a ticket. They expect you to trailer it in. AAA doesn't care.
Plus the time wait is about half.
#15