Head Studs
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2009
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Head Studs
Hi, More questions...
I have read the extensive coverage on the head stud subject. It sounds like the gaskets are generally not to blame or defective. Can I change the head studs without removing the heads? Is it OK to just pull pull the old bolts and install the new ARP studs through the holes or is the head gasket change needed. Can I get to all the studs with the right tools without lifting the cab or breaking anything?
I don't believe I have a problem now and hope I never do but I am starting to plan out some major surgery for later next year when I can afford the preventative maintenance. If this is doable, I might consider it while I have the top taken apart for other stuff.
Thanks
Steve
I have read the extensive coverage on the head stud subject. It sounds like the gaskets are generally not to blame or defective. Can I change the head studs without removing the heads? Is it OK to just pull pull the old bolts and install the new ARP studs through the holes or is the head gasket change needed. Can I get to all the studs with the right tools without lifting the cab or breaking anything?
I don't believe I have a problem now and hope I never do but I am starting to plan out some major surgery for later next year when I can afford the preventative maintenance. If this is doable, I might consider it while I have the top taken apart for other stuff.
Thanks
Steve
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ohio
Steve, what year is the truck and has a programmer ever been installed that you know of? You are correct, the torque to yield head bolts do fail, not the head gasket.
Yes, head bolts have been removed and studs installed without removing the heads, proper etiquette? Your call your wallet, you know the truck better than we do, some owners have had success.
Yes, head bolts have been removed and studs installed without removing the heads, proper etiquette? Your call your wallet, you know the truck better than we do, some owners have had success.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
Steve, what year is the truck and has a programmer ever been installed that you know of? You are correct, the torque to yield head bolts do fail, not the head gasket.
Yes, head bolts have been removed and studs installed without removing the heads, proper etiquette? Your call your wallet, you know the truck better than we do, some owners have had success.
Yes, head bolts have been removed and studs installed without removing the heads, proper etiquette? Your call your wallet, you know the truck better than we do, some owners have had success.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Steve, what year is the truck and has a programmer ever been installed that you know of? You are correct, the torque to yield head bolts do fail, not the head gasket.
Yes, head bolts have been removed and studs installed without removing the heads, proper etiquette? Your call your wallet, you know the truck better than we do, some owners have had success.
Yes, head bolts have been removed and studs installed without removing the heads, proper etiquette? Your call your wallet, you know the truck better than we do, some owners have had success.
By the way, where is the external transmission filter located? I can't find it in any of the documentation and I looked around the other day to no avail.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Moyock, NC
It's a 2003 F350 and as far as i know, no tuner or other performance mods. 45K miles, mostly pulling a camper. I just bought it so I don't really know much prior history. I'm doing PM as fast as the weather and my time permits. Coolant flush, coolant bypass filter, all other filters, etc. I've seen no indication yet that anything is actually wrong and the coolant that came out was crystal clear. I'll test the new stuff in a few months to see if there is any hydrocarbon gas in it. Then, I'm looking for the best solution for the EGR blockoff and proactively rebuild the oil cooler while I have it open. Change the IPR sensor, wrap the wire harnesses, etc. I'd hate to go so far as to pull the engine or lift the cab. That feels like an overreaction if I don't have a problem yet.
By the way, where is the external transmission filter located? I can't find it in any of the documentation and I looked around the other day to no avail.
By the way, where is the external transmission filter located? I can't find it in any of the documentation and I looked around the other day to no avail.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2009
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Yikes!OK, thanks. I'll look in the morning... No wonder I did not see it earlier. What is your recommended change interval on that filter? Some number of hours of towing or just miles?
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,170
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From: Moyock, NC
I think the manual says every 30K...I've changed mine three times...I guess every 15K since I've had her. @ $26 a pop...not like you need to do it too often....but I'm thinking the book says 30K.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
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It's a 2003 F350 and as far as i know, no tuner or other performance mods. 45K miles, mostly pulling a camper. I just bought it so I don't really know much prior history. I'm doing PM as fast as the weather and my time permits. Coolant flush, coolant bypass filter, all other filters, etc. I've seen no indication yet that anything is actually wrong and the coolant that came out was crystal clear. I'll test the new stuff in a few months to see if there is any hydrocarbon gas in it. Then, I'm looking for the best solution for the EGR blockoff and proactively rebuild the oil cooler while I have it open. Change the IPR sensor, wrap the wire harnesses, etc. I'd hate to go so far as to pull the engine or lift the cab. That feels like an overreaction if I don't have a problem yet.
By the way, where is the external transmission filter located? I can't find it in any of the documentation and I looked around the other day to no avail.
By the way, where is the external transmission filter located? I can't find it in any of the documentation and I looked around the other day to no avail.
While I was at it I removed the EGR cooler to eliminate exhaust gas flow through the cooler. The opening in the end that connects to the Y pipe is 1.375". I went to Advance Auto and bought a 1.375" engine block freeze plug. Pressed it in the EGR cooler and it was a good tight fit. Since you have an '03 you will have the round EGR cooler. The freeze plug totally eliminates all exhaust gas flow through the EGR cooler and leaves all of the EGR companents in place.
DSMMH
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 153
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I just did an oil cooler kit install last week. Not hard at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions.
While I was at it I removed the EGR cooler to eliminate exhaust gas flow through the cooler. The opening in the end that connects to the Y pipe is 1.375". I went to Advance Auto and bought a 1.375" engine block freeze plug. Pressed it in the EGR cooler and it was a good tight fit. Since you have an '03 you will have the round EGR cooler. The freeze plug totally eliminates all exhaust gas flow through the EGR cooler and leaves all of the EGR companents in place.
DSMMH
While I was at it I removed the EGR cooler to eliminate exhaust gas flow through the cooler. The opening in the end that connects to the Y pipe is 1.375". I went to Advance Auto and bought a 1.375" engine block freeze plug. Pressed it in the EGR cooler and it was a good tight fit. Since you have an '03 you will have the round EGR cooler. The freeze plug totally eliminates all exhaust gas flow through the EGR cooler and leaves all of the EGR companents in place.
DSMMH
Did you seal the end with something? I'd want to make sure water can't leak back if the cooler fails anyway.