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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 08:16 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy HELP!!

Howdy!
I bought my 60 f-100 a few years back. I've been working on it a little at a time, minor body work etc. Basically, my first project car ever. It's a solid truck, it just had a bad paint job to prevent anymore surface rust. But here's my problem, when I got the truck, the guy who I bought it from told me that the carb needed to be adjusted. You see, it ideals fine, and after she's warmed up you can give it some gas to hear the cherry bombs sing, someone dropped a 71-73 351 W into it. It sounds great, but when I put it into drive (AUTOMATIC) and go to goose it, or even back it out of the garage just to look at it in Sun lite, she sounds like she wants to die, and sometimes does. I replaced the battery, the battery cables, the starter, the solenoid, plugs etc. I even have a manual for holley carbs, and looked at troublesome shooting in there, but had no luck. I don't know if it's a vacuum leak or what? I really want to one day drive this baby, and feel like it may never come. My other option was to take it to my mechanic when the weather gets nice, but I really want to do it myself, pride and all. Any info or suggestions would be so appreciated at this point. Thanks for your time guys!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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did you check the timing?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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Timing first then tune the carb. that was the rule I was taught... I would check the timing, then make sure the carb is set properly. What carb is on it? brand might even be enough...
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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Cyberspace guesses from an unreliable memory;

The stock carb should have been a Motorcraft / Autoilite two barrel (I think)? IF it’s a Holley 2 or 4 barrel then it has been changed, I think you have a vacuum leak. Squirt 10-30 or ATF around the carb base and intake and see if the idle speed changes.

I personally have not had good luck with Holleys, see if you can find a running test carb.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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Hi, is the idle RPM correct in park? What is the rpm when brake is on and (D or R) is selected? If it drops and it dies is the choke manual/elect working to increase idle until it warms up? What does yours have? chuck
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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I agree with Old F1.

It sounds like timing is not advanced enoungh, vacuum advance is not working properly/timing is off, accelerator pump on the carb is not working, or vacuum connections at the transmission are open.

Use a vacuum guage to time and set the idle mixture then check for a vacuum leak at the tranny. Also, check to see (with the engine off) if the carb squirts a good solid shot of gas in the carb throat as you open the throttle.

Here is the procedure for setting the timing with a vacuum gauge:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...e-trouble.html
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:50 AM
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I'd look at the timing first, too. In addition to the vacuum advance, you might want to check the mechanical advance as well. It's not uncommon to find one stuck or gummed up.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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Great guys! Thanks for all your suggestions. I will start her up this week and check the timing, and the mechanical advance. I will keep you all posted. Also, any suggestions for lowering the truck 3'' without cutting the springs. I have seen control arms with a deeper coil pocket, but nothing for my year, or even close for that matter. Also I a trying to get a set of steelies and am having a hard time finding the right size. I measured the lugs, any other suggestions?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kingcustom04
any suggestions for lowering the truck 3'' without cutting the springs. I have seen control arms with a deeper coil pocket, but nothing for my year, or even close for that matter. Also I a trying to get a set of steelies and am having a hard time finding the right size. I measured the lugs, any other suggestions?
You can't cut leaf springs and expect them to lower your truck. Well, not an accurate 3 inches, anyway. You didn't mention anything about having a modified suspension, so we'll probably need a little more info about your application before making any recommendations for modifications.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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I believe he meant coil springs in the front. As far as we know the suspension is stock.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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Not sure if this is true on all vehicles but I have seen a bad modulator valve on the transmission let trans fluid get sucked into much of the vacuum lines on a truck before which can make it run like crap or die on you.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 79Hulk
I believe he meant coil springs in the front. As far as we know the suspension is stock.
Except that 1960 F-100's don't have coil springs in front, stock. That's why I asked for more info.

I see this is your first post, so thanks for participating, and welcome to the forum!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 12:02 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Old F1
I think you have a vacuum leak. Squirt 10-30 or ATF around the carb base and intake and see if the idle speed changes.
Another material you can use to check for a vacuum leak is carb cleaner. spraying it around the outside/ base of the carb if the Idle changes then you found your leak.

Oh and you can use a propane or mapp gas torch (without it lit, but gas flowing) to pinpoint the leak. (this one is my favorite as there is no mess to clean up afterwards)
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 06:02 AM
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The truck has stock suspension.

And I will also try using my Mapp gas torch to check for a leak. Thanks again guys for all your help. I can't wait to get out in the garage after the new year and take a look. Any suggestions for finding a stock benchseat?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:40 AM
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Just my 2 cents I would also check the inline fuel filter just in case it is partly resticted also if the fuel pump is ok.
 
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