Quick wiring question. I'm working on trying to get the truck to start or at least turn over. I'm picking up a new starter relay tomm since I'm missing it. I'm trying not to fry anything. I've got 5 wires going to the relay. =One wire goes from the batt + terminal to a large post on the relay.
=One wire goes from the other large post on the relay to the starter.

That leaves 3 wires. One about 10g with a large eyelet and the other 2 about 14g with small eyelets. The 10g should go to the + batt. large post right? It goes 2 directions - into the firewall and to the volt. reg. with the eyelet mid-wire.

Now, the 2 small wires. They go one each on the small posts of the relay. Any clues on which post each wire goes to? I'm at work at the moment but I believe one was green.

Sorry this is kinda vague. I'm working completely off memory of what's underhood.

Thanks folks!

-Mike

Ooops...forgot. It's a 59 F100. 292ci.

 

Trying to remember back 35+ years. One of the wires goes to the ignition switch. The other bypasses the ballist resistor to supply a full 12v to the points while cranking the engine.

I'm trying to remember, I believe the ignition wire goes on the small terminal next to the battery lead. The other goes next to the starter lead.

If the wires are reversed, no start, no damage.

Good luck

 

Thanks C.F. Just trying not to fry anything. I'll give it a try tomm and see where I'm at.

 

I believe your big wires are right, from your description. The two small wires connect to the S and I posts on the front of the solenoid. The S post, which IIRC is on the left, is to the starter switch (aka; the key) and the I post goes to the ignition coil + side. You'll want to check your wiring for color codes.

 

It seems the green goes to the I terminal and the other would be red/black and goes to the S but like c.f. stated. You won't hurt anything if hooked up wrong. It just won't crank.

 

OK First, I'm assuming since you said you have the positive battery cable running down to the starter solenoid, and you have four wires (and a four post starter solenoid) you are running 12 volt negative ground, correct?

Then here's the corrrect set up:

1. Positive Battery Cable from Positive post of battery to "Batt" (large) post on Starter Solenoid.

2. Large Cable on opposite large lug on the Starter Solenoid "Start" goes to the Starter.

3. There is a smaller wire that runs from one of the small lugs on the Starter Solenoid (marked "S") that runs to your Starter Button, or the center "S" lug on the Ignition Switch if you are using an Ignition Switch with a "Start" position (the spring loaded one all the way clockwise) instead of a Starter Button.

4. A fourth wire should run to the back of your Ignition Switch and hook to the "I" or "IGN" lug. This wire may also be spliced in anywhere along the wire leading from the "I" or "IGN" lug on the Ignition Switch out to the positive lug on the Coil.

5. There should be a large wire coming from the place you are distributing power from - be it stock Circuit Breakers, Headlight Switch or Fuse Block. This wire is a continuation of that coming from the "Batt" post on the Generator Voltage Regulater. It should run from "Batt" of Voltage Regulator to the power distribution point (where you split up power to go out to all yor accessories) then through the "AMP" Gauge, to the "Batt" post on the Ignition Switch; then, finnaly connect to the large lug on the Starter Solenoid that your positive Battery Cable is also attached to.

Clear as mud?

Here's a pic - use the appropriate one for year and starter button/switch configuration. I call the power distribution point a "Hot Bus" I do not show the wire coming from the Generator Voltage Regulator to the "Hot Bus" in these views - but it's there on the truck.

 

Makes perfect sense to me! Thanks!

 

Ok. Installed the switch and got some power to the dash (oil and gen lights came on). Didn't turn over, but I didn't really expect it to. So, I started tracing wires and here is what I find. Looks like a new harness is in order too. Oh well! Onward!

 

Oh maybe you could just put a little duct tape on that and put some volts through it.

Rewiring is pretty easy and you can do it without a prefabbed harness - I think it's easier.

If youlike the drawing I posted above, look in my #4 album. I have a complete set for a 12 volt rewire on all components. If youwould like, I can send you the whole Power Point file and you use/adjust them as you wish.

Good luck!

 

That would be awesome! Thanks!

 

Ok Firedad74. I need your real e-mail address.

Since youdon't have 25 posts yet we can not exchange "Private Messages" so send me an e-mail to babbiebuddie@***.net and I will send those to the "real" e-mail address on the note.