hey out there again, hope everyones having a good holiday for starters, now to the problem
i have a 1989 ford bronco 5.0 v8 5 speed its an awesome truck i recently posted a problem i was having with the location of the IDM, but i think i got what i need to make the trouble codes go away
what i need help with today is the clutch, bleeding it to be exact, its got the m5od with the internal slave cylinder, so getting that bleeder undone is gonna be a bear mabey not so much seeing that its fairly new, about a year old.
anyway,the clutch feels okay, meaning that i can drive it, but when engageing second and third when its cold it grinds a tad just a quick lil grnt you know? its not like im reefing on it to get it in gear, and it feels delayed, what i mean is if i put it to the floor and wait just a second before engageing another gear that lil grnt wont happen, itll engage nice and smooth.
how do you bleed this thing? the book i have is so dang cryptic youd have to have an interperter to decypher what it is the author is trying to say...guess by now you figured out its a hayes manual lol anybody with any tips would be helpful thanks!

 

Funny, I just finished bleeding my clutch two days ago. I have the same exact tranny. There will probably be different ways of tackling how to bleed the clutch, but all should agree that it can be a pain in the butt. This is what worked for me with a new master cylinder replacement job that I did myself:

Assuming no leaks or other problems:

I parked my Bronco on an incline, with the front of the truck up the hill.
I removed the little rubber bladder cup underneath the fill cap on the master cylinder reservoir and filled (the reservoir) full of new brake fluid. Left cap off.
Went underneath the truck to the tranny and located the bleeder valve screw. (It is located just above the quick release hydraulic line going into the tranny from the master cylinder. It has a black cap over it and is easily spotted right on the exterior of the tranny.)
Got a piece of hose and a bottle to catch the fluid, but didn't work too well due to below:
Got my son to sit in the Bronco and push the clutch all the way down and hold it.
I then released the valve...(you may need to put a socket on it at first to get it to break free...then go by hand.)
Undid/loosened the valve until I heard a quick hiss/gurgle noise, and then quickly closed the valve again. At this point I had fluid all over the place. Could not figure out how to put the hose over the valve and still release it at the same time.....(I'm a bit dense at times I guess.)
Had son release the pedal. Had to pull it up by hand the first few times.
Checked the master cylinder, and filled again if necessary...don't let run dry. (I only needed to top it off a couple of times before it stabalized.)
Repeated process until fluid came out bubble free. This took a while, more than ten times. My Pit Bull "Buster" crawled under my Bronco and kept me really good company. I'm serious. We just layed there together, it was sort of cool. Country music playing, a cold beer and all. He's my best dog of three, and the breed has a really bad name.)
Clutch began to work, could hear and see it working through holes in the tranny. Son could feel pressure building to a "normal feel" state. (Note that each time the valve is released, the pedal will drop down to the floor. This is normal and when valve is closed, pressure will be maintained and continue to buld.)
Did a quick road test, with Buster riding shotgun of course, his big 'ole head out the window, cold air slapping his jowls. All was fine.
Let Bronco sit all night in the above position (inclined) and did one last bleed/top off. Checked for acceptable pedal tolerances (1/2" from bottom, little at the top?)
So far, all is well, but cannot decide whether or not to put that bladder/pressure, rubber cup back under the master cylinder reservoir cap or not. The replacement bladder cup is really deep and looks like it will displace a lot of fluid.....

Again, I was bleeding a replaced master cylinder. You possibly may have some other issues, I am just sharing my recent, hands-on bleeding experience that worked.

I've heard some folks say that getting the clutch just right took longer than the entire tranny job.....In my case, while I had read up on what to do, I STILL made some bone-head mistakes that made the process longer than necessary. Also, remember that brake fluid is really corrosive and generally bad stuff. Stay clean and hope this helps.

 

ahhhh, isnt great just chillaxin, while workin on your ford, dont get me wrong though if its an early efi electrical problem you are far from chillaxin lol
but i dont think its any other problem, after hearing how the original owner did it, like i said the slave is brand new as of mabey a year or so ago, and this guy only used it for his driveway, which is probably why its going to need a frame, it just sat with little use. and the body isnt much better, but i can do all that stuff its just time consuming.
im so glad mines a standard though, im tired of autocrapic transmissions, that and its the first v8 ive ever gotten to drive, i cant say its the first ive owned though, i had a olds cutlass and a caddy both with 8s...projects that never got done, but i love my ford the best. thanks for all your help!!