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The wife and I just got back home from a nice dinner with our daughter and her family, how do you beat two kids under 10 years old at Christmas?
Anyway, I need to adjust the kickdown rod on my '88 but I haven't been able to put my hands on a good description of the procedure or what it should look like when I'm done.
The C6 actually don't absolutely need the kickdown, just as long as you remember to downshift it manually. That said, why do you feel your kickdown needs readjusted, is it dropping down a gear way too easy or way too late or not at all?
The C6 actually don't absolutely need the kickdown, just as long as you remember to downshift it manually. That said, why do you feel your kickdown needs readjusted, is it dropping down a gear way too easy or way too late or not at all?
This truck came to me with the kickdown rod "Adjusted" so that it never touches the throttle linkage. I'm guessing that the rod has been bent near the fire wall. It still moves freely so I have no reason to think that it has a problem on the tranny end.
The list of things that I have corrected on this truck is pretty frustrating. The P.O. spent a lot of time telling me all about the shop that he used and what great mechanics they are. I wanted the truck either way so I bought it anyway but this truck will never see that shop again.
As far as symptoms go, I have only recently put the truck back on the road so I'm going to have to concentrate on symptoms before I can directly answer your question. It has been sitting for over 2 years while I practiced the art of being unemployed and am now preparing to practice my skill at moving. The truck will be a big asset with the relocation that we are looking at.
The kickdown rod IS NOT suppose to contact the throttle lever at an idle. It only contacts at near full throttle. It sounds like it's fine and isn't out of adjustment.
The kickdown rod IS NOT suppose to contact the throttle lever at an idle. It only contacts at near full throttle. It sounds like it's fine and isn't out of adjustment.
Re-read my post, the kickdown NEVER touches the throttle.
Past experience with other vehicles, and a fading old mind, make me think that it is probably 3/4" or better gap from the throttle to the kickdown adjuster screw at the idle position. But I haven't seen anything in writting that would confirm that.
the rod could be bent , i have seen it done many times
you can disconnect it from the ip and give it a little tug to help straighten it out
adjust the screw so that when at full throttle you cannot push the trans linkage back you want zero lash between the two at full throttle as a starting point
also i do not recommend manually shifting a c-6 i have seen engines damaged from over revving by doing this due to unknown repairs on these vehicles
like shift kits different valve bodies and or governor assemblies that allow the diesel to downshift at too high of road speeds
BTW 87Dually, your signature notes "Worked C6", do ya mind sharing what "Worked" means?
Ron
About 2 years ago when I practically welded my clutches and drum together I figured it was a time for a rebuild and I only wanted to do it once.
So here's the laundry list:
Torque converter w/nuts
New direct drum w/ 5 clutches
New forward drum w/ 5 clutches
Alto Red Eagle wide band
Red Eagle clutches with Kolene steels
all new bearings and thrust washers
Diesel shift kit (can hold any gear) w/ Sonnex oversize perf. pressure
valve
Adjustable modulator
Code FF Band lever
Sonnex "R" code billet super servo
Teflon coated pump gears
6 pinion planetary low gears
Deep sump aluminum finned pan with an internal filter
huge trans-cooler
Thats all I can remember for now, but I'm very happy with the trans. All these parts were decided upon in a weeks time with research and talking with some suppliers around the country. I did all the work myself with the exception of one of the springs that I couldn't compress for assembly so I had a local shop do it instead of me buying the press to do it.
The clutches and steels were in a kit form and the other items I ordered seperate.
also i do not recommend manually shifting a c-6 i have seen engines damaged from over revving by doing this due to unknown repairs on these vehicles
like shift kits different valve bodies and or governor assemblies that allow the diesel to downshift at too high of road speeds
Agreed, it ain't recommended if you don't know your truck well - but I drove a big truck once so I'm semi-used to paying attention to the whole engine-trans speed synchronization. But where I was really going with that post was that if truck is needed right away before repairs and adjustments can be made it can be used with no ill effects. About the spring question, most hardware stores sell assorted spring packs, get one of those and play matchup - that's what I usually have to do when I have someone come in for a Lokar cables install on their carb.
About 2 years ago when I practically welded my clutches and drum together I figured it was a time for a rebuild and I only wanted to do it once.
So here's the laundry list:
Nice
I hope I never have to pull this one, but then I hope to win the lottery too. Probably about equal likelyhood.
I am going to have to deal with this same thing soon.
Looks like on mine, somebody tried to rig a spring from the kickdown lever. Mine is really thin and worn out and can't even hold it at idle position.
Does anybody have a clue where to get replacement springs? I haven't found any on ebay, the ford oem website, or rockauto.
almost any hardware store will have the assortment of sizes of different kinds of springs. it is where i got all of mine to replace the tired old springs on my last engine.