Time to replace Carb ?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: North Dakota
Time to replace Carb ?
Ok in my 1986 f250 with a 460 it has the 4180 holley carb
The truck had been sitting for 10 years prior to me taking it in october.
Ive changed plugs coil cap and rotor "brain box" starter altenator ignition module starter solenoid both fuel pumps 1 tank steering colum speedometer cable. Im thinking the carb is the next thing to replace. already did a carb kit. Please chime in with your thoughts.
Im running rich. most noticable today now that there is some snow on the ground after 5-10 minutes of idling i had black sut on the snow for about 3 feet out from my exhaust pipe.
Other things going on Bad milage even at idle Im about 9 gallons down in about 40 minutes of idle and 20 miles of driving in town. (its cold out and a short drive to work)
Starts easy but if you shut it off when its warmed up you really have to crank the engine over for it to fire again.
The idle mixture screws are still behind there tamper plugs so they are at factory settings.
The truck had been sitting for 10 years prior to me taking it in october.
Ive changed plugs coil cap and rotor "brain box" starter altenator ignition module starter solenoid both fuel pumps 1 tank steering colum speedometer cable. Im thinking the carb is the next thing to replace. already did a carb kit. Please chime in with your thoughts.
Im running rich. most noticable today now that there is some snow on the ground after 5-10 minutes of idling i had black sut on the snow for about 3 feet out from my exhaust pipe.
Other things going on Bad milage even at idle Im about 9 gallons down in about 40 minutes of idle and 20 miles of driving in town. (its cold out and a short drive to work)
Starts easy but if you shut it off when its warmed up you really have to crank the engine over for it to fire again.
The idle mixture screws are still behind there tamper plugs so they are at factory settings.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Pittsburgh
You need to become one with your Holley 4180, but I cant really think of anything that can go bad on one. Throttle plates sometimes warp. The bar that the butterflies are attached to has plastic washers on the inside of the housing. Those washers can cause physical leaks, but you would see that. The mixture screws if I remember correctly are spring loaded, those could be gunked up, or rusted. Sounds more like the floats arent shutting off the fuel supply and its flooding.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
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With the tamper plugs still on the idle screws they couldn't have been cleaned very thoroughly. You can just pry those things off and put them back on (if they're like the ones I remember.) A sticking or incorrectly set float makes sense to me.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: North Dakota
I also forgot to mention Its really doggy from 3rd gear to 4th absoultly no power if was pulling something id be stalled out. Im sure its flooding itself out i just cant figure out why.
Ive heard mostly bad things about the edelbrock from local people. Was told if i replace it to get a holley.
The 4180 is old and looks like it was dropped at one time there is a part of it that is broken into 3 peices and looks to be caulked back togther.
Ive heard mostly bad things about the edelbrock from local people. Was told if i replace it to get a holley.
The 4180 is old and looks like it was dropped at one time there is a part of it that is broken into 3 peices and looks to be caulked back togther.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
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From: San Diego
The fuel inlet on the 4180's likes to strip out easy too. The bowls are hard to get...
Did you adjust the fuel level in the bowls after the rebuild? I should ask if you did the rebuild yourself too. Plus if I'm not mistaken the floats aren't the metal type and are prone to fail when they get older...
Did you adjust the fuel level in the bowls after the rebuild? I should ask if you did the rebuild yourself too. Plus if I'm not mistaken the floats aren't the metal type and are prone to fail when they get older...
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From: Virginia
If you don't have to pass emissions, just get a brand new universal type holley. It will bolt right on, but most of the emissions hoses won't have a place to go, so they can be taken off. A brand new carb, new inline fuel filter, and you should be ready to go. I heard something about snow in your post, so make sure you keep the original aircleaner, the vacuum lines on it, and the hot air pipe that goes from the aircleaner to the exhaust manifold. That will keep the carb from freezing up in cold damp weather, which will also make it run rough and rich till the heat from the engine finally gets to the carb.
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From: League City, TX
What was your solution? I am experiencing the same problems that you describe.
I have had ongoing problems of getting dirt caught in my needle valves that cause the float bowls to run over. I installed an inline fuel filter last fall, but the problem has re-occured 4 or 5 times since then. I can temporarily fix it by removing and cleaning the needle valves, but now I am contemplating a partial carb tear-down to look for residual dirt.
I have had ongoing problems of getting dirt caught in my needle valves that cause the float bowls to run over. I installed an inline fuel filter last fall, but the problem has re-occured 4 or 5 times since then. I can temporarily fix it by removing and cleaning the needle valves, but now I am contemplating a partial carb tear-down to look for residual dirt.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Maryland
What was your solution? I am experiencing the same problems that you describe.
I have had ongoing problems of getting dirt caught in my needle valves that cause the float bowls to run over. I installed an inline fuel filter last fall, but the problem has re-occured 4 or 5 times since then. I can temporarily fix it by removing and cleaning the needle valves, but now I am contemplating a partial carb tear-down to look for residual dirt.
I have had ongoing problems of getting dirt caught in my needle valves that cause the float bowls to run over. I installed an inline fuel filter last fall, but the problem has re-occured 4 or 5 times since then. I can temporarily fix it by removing and cleaning the needle valves, but now I am contemplating a partial carb tear-down to look for residual dirt.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: North Dakota
Ive been gone awhile sorry for not posting a solution ive found. I was blowing black smoke and getting under 1 mpg. A friend told me that i may have tilted my carb or got it upside down while looking for the plugs ( i cant rember if i did or not) but in doing so a small BB could get stuck in the wrong position. And it might take a few good wacks to loosen it up. I was up for anything so i wacked on the carb a bit. Took it out for a drive Which at that time was near impossible it was Back firing and wanting to die when shifting. But after i got on the high way for a mile or 2 i burned up the extra gas and it was running better. Its now idling fine. In fact i had to turn the idle back down. i had the idle cranked just to get the engine to sputter at 600ish rpms after i let it sit a day or 2 i tried it again and the engine was purring at around 1200 rpms. slowed it down to about 800 now. So id say My solution was wacking on the carb with a piliars.
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From: Virginia
If you have the problem again, I would suspect dirt in the fuel. If you drive over some really rough roads, or really start horsing around with it doing wheelies, anything that will slosh the fuel around in the tanks or the carb, the problem may re-surface. The plier trick is knocking the dirt free from underneath the float needles.
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