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Well i have just been doing some research. And cant find anything.
Does anybody know where I can find blue prints for the factory frame? On a 1956 F1
I am not going to pay the crazy a8-10 for a complete chassis. Currently i only have everything from the firewall back. And I am not sure how straight it is.
There is a pretty good drawing, with dimensions, in the original 1956 Ford Truck Shop Manual. I wouldn't call it a 'blueprint' but it's close. It's in chapter IV 'Running Gear' on page 238. I believe these manuals are still readily available in reprints, probably from Mid-Fifties, but not sure.
If you have a frame from the firewall back it would be a good candidate for a subframe such as a Crown Victoria, Camaro or something along those lines.
Not sure how late their information goes (I work on Model T's mostly) but you might give the Benson Ford Archives in Dearborn, MI a call and see if they have the prints. They're part of the Henry Ford Museum and it's my understanding that FoMoCo dumps all their old prints there when they obsolete them. Copies cost $35.00 apiece and you're not allowed to share them (the income keeps them afloat). As I said at the beginning, not sure if they have stuff this late but makes sense to check.
If you shop around there are chassis's to be had. I found a 56 on ebay for 100 dollars. You could allso watch craigs list. You need to find one that you can pickup. Shipping would cost more then the chassis is worth.
If you add your location to your profile it would help find people close to you that might have what you need. Just for correctness there is no such thing as a 56 F1. The Bonuus Built years 48-52 pickups 1/2T, 3/4T, 1T were designated as F1, 2, 3 etc. Starting in 53 Ford changed the designation to F100, 250, 350, etc. On the 56 there should be a Vin plate on the driver's doorpost that will give the model, and other info.
Frst decide on what you want your truck to be: a working truck, a daily driver, a cruiser, a restoration, a resto-rod, a custom, a rat rod, a racer, ???. Next make a list of desired characteristics of that style build, as well as "must haves" (if not a restoration) such as engine era, type, size, tranny type, suspension, AC, seating, Power steering, brakes, etc. Also realistically assess your skills, tools and equipment, shop facilities, time and budget. Do you have strong metal fab skills to build/ modify a chassis? Do you have a large enough shop/storage facility to disassemble your truck, store the parts you are not currently working on (disassembled sheet metal/cab/chassis requires a lot more storage space than an assembled truck for example) and our projects have a habit of taking years to complete, and much more money than your wildest guess.
Come back with that info filtered down and we will give more specific advice on the best/most economical approach. The most costly approach is to go off without a plan then have to rebuy/rebuild down the road when you realize what you did is not going to get you where you want to go. In some rare cases you may even find that 10K chassis is really the most economical choice in the long run.
Well I have dent fab skills, and have a huge access to friends with alot of experiance in the customizing market. A few of them own there own shops also.
I am not new to frame modification, but im no master. I will probably tack the complete frame and have it prepped for full weld. Then have my buddy come lay some nice clean beads down for me.
I dont have a huge space, 24x24 garage with 8ft cealing. I dont really wanna do a sub frame swap because i plan to have a full tilt and want something more visually appealing. My plan is to get the whole body ready minus the floor and firewall and in a sealer before I move unto the frame. I would love to build a complete one off using mustangII front end and ford 9in rear. I want the truck to lay out on the running boards. I will probably be using a variety of steel from 2x4 and 2x3 and some bent tubing work. U plan to mount everything under the bed including a fuel cell. I am not sure on the motor. But it will probably be a bb ford and automatic transmission. I want a mean sounding machine that has a nice clean look and stance.
also I wanna make sure the wheels are centered, do they come center or will they need moved? Also the rear fender will more than likely be modified to close the gap around them.
Stock, the front wheels are ~1- 1 1/4" rearwards of the front fender opening center for some ?? reason.
True MII front suspension should be relegated to use under the Pinto for which it was designed IMHO.
The newer purposebuilt from scratch IFS such as from people like Heidts that was designed and engineered for our trucks is a much better choice. AFA boneyard IFS the Jag sedan is an easy install on a stock frame and has excellent geometry.
It is well known here that I think that "bags" are for carrying groceries home in or show only trailer queens not for real driving, but there are a number of others that have a different opinion. Just be sure you really understand the expense and positives and negatives of them, not just that they are "cool" and all the magazine features use them.
Wheels being centered is an appearance issue. And obviously you have never rode in a vehicle with properly installed air suspension. It can make the ride so smooth and clean. And thats what want. Im not looking for fast bags or even the option to lay it out every time I park. I want them because i want a comfortable hotrod stance ride and the ability to lift it up to get around in some areas. Michigan had bad roads and not very friendly to steel drops. Bags were around roughly 50 years ago, so i say why not.
You said you are missing the frame portion in front of the firewall of the cab and would like to go with a Mustage 2 front suspension, my thoughts would be to contact vendors such as Fatmans, TCI, Heidts tell them what you have and what you'd like them to supply from a given measurement you have, my thoughts for the day and they'd set it up any way you ask.