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Gettin ready to make the connections... Gonna make Santa buy me some connectivity !
I looked thru the archives on this forum and it seems that the EZ Wire set up was pretty popular. I know there are other reputable outfits as well. Just for the sake of update, is EZ still the way to go or are there other good or better sources today ?
I haven't gotten to the wiring stage yet, but I thought I'd bump you up to the top of the forum again as there are plenty of folks who have experience and can help you out. Saturday evening before Christmas may have a lot of the regulars busy with family or shopping!
When I did mine a couple of years back I used Sacramento Vintage Ford for a totally stock wire harness. The harness is sort of modular in so much as a separate cab light harness, a tail light harness, a headlight harness. It worked out well but I didnt like the bullet connectors. I was told to cut these out and use crimp connectors with heat shrink insulation.
my ezwire was very easy.. I would go with the small fuseblock version now.. saves space..
only thing painless has over the ezwire is the ability to change the window power from keyed to full time, by moving a fuse over 1 tab.
(2 other circuits too, just don't remember what they are)
I guess it would depend on a lot of features you have onthe truck now.
Converting to 12 volt? One wire alternator? How are you planning to distribute power? Have you added electric accessories - fuel pump, fans, stereo, windows, wipers?
As most folks know by now, I'nm not a fan of preformed electrical harnesses -I prefere to wire one wire at a time. But if you want to buy a harness, from what I understand, the EZ harnesses are very popular.
Make sure if you get one the company you buy it from has qualified technical support and the harness comes with step by step instructions.
Just for grins, look at my album with the electrical drawings. Doing your own rewiring is very easy and has a good number of advantages. I'll send you the Power Point file for the drawings if you would like it - send me your e-mail address. It won't hurt to take a look.
I used the EZ wire on mine. It was the first major thing i did right after i got the truck. I had never done any wiring on any vehicle before. Everything worked first time so i guess it was easy. The hardest thing for me was wiring the turn signal and high beam indicator lights. They are 26 Ga. wire and were difficult to crimp. I had to fold the wire about 4 times to get a good crimp.
If i would have it to do over again i would buy or make a harness for the gauges with plugs for ease of removal if need be.
Just for grins, look at my album with the electrical drawings. Doing your own rewiring is very easy and has a good number of advantages. I'll send you the Power Point file for the drawings if you would like it - send me your e-mail address. It won't hurt to take a look.
Thanks Julie - I'd like to see it. I'll shoot you a PM later
It's going to be a 12V Basic Street Rod type set up. Having 30+ years in computer hardware Quality Assurance, I'm fairly strong in wire harness fab, crimp tooling, and failure analysis.
My logic (right or wrong) was that for 185 bones, the wire gauges and fusing are pre-calculated, everything is identified, and it's a plug-in to my GM Column. Seemed like a good way to go.
Yeah, with the GM column, it might be a good choice. I'll send the drawings to you anyway, and at least it will give you a good idea and road map about your signal flow. The EZ harness should be almost exactly the same.
I have used both ez and ron francis wire,they both are very easy and well marked .I would use either one again without a second thought.I also had a coustom harnees made to run a 88 dodge 360 motor that went in my 50 dodge pickup,very happy with them also.
I used the Sacramento ford harness for the majority of the wiring and it worked out very well. I then added an extra Painless panel (behind passenger side kick panel) for my extra add on stuff. If your not going to add on a lot ie: A/C, extra halogen lights sound amps and etc the Sacramento harness will be fine.
Check around on Ebay for the harness. Back when I did mine I was able to find several Ebay vendors selling the EZ Wiring harnesses for a decent price. I think I paid $140 for my 21 circuit harness back when the advertised price was $165.
When I installed mine I tried to keep everything as clean and hidden as I could. I don't like the look of the big red, blue, and yellow crimp on terminals and butt connectors all over the place, so when I made my connections and terminations I used a small punch to push the metal part out of the insulation of the crimp connector. I also don't like how the crimp connectors bend when crimped so I'd run some heat shrink over the wire and solder the terminal or butt connector in place and then cover it with the heat shrink for a nice clean joint.
Another tip....when installing the harness (any harness) don't make any connection or cut any wire until you are completely happy with the layout. In my case I laid out and routed the harness at least 3 times before I found a routing that I was happy with.
...and...split loom is your friend. You can buy it in a variety of sizes. You can even get some great "T" connectors to use when splitting off parts of the harness. (when in doubt go look under the hood of the cars in your driveway and see how they do it)
E-Z wire 21. On ebay for $150. My first wiring job 50f1 Not hard at all. I used a GM Column. I will use it again on my 46 Ply coupe. When I put the 440 in it next spring. After the f1 is on the road. RUSTY
I bought the mini EZ wiring. I do like it's a great kit but I dismantled most of it and kinda started from scratch. I love the coded wires, but If I had to do it again I would absolutely wire it from scratch. I'd place the block where the old regulator was and go from there. I suppose it would have made things easier if EZ wire gave me a layout of there fuse box I would have felt more comfortable lots of wires not used. I like to know exactly what wire is what?
Probably just me and the way my mind works. I'm 90% there but I'm procrastinating and using Julies wiring to get everything correct. If I wasn;t so cheap I'd have just bought a direct swap rewire kit.
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