Engine Install
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2000
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Engine Install
I'm in the process of reinstalling my freshly built 400 in my 78 and I'm having a heck of a time trying to bolt it back in. I can't seem to line up the dowels in the block with the holes in the bellhousing. When I tighten any of the bolts the dowels pull away from their holes. Anyone have any hints or suggestions to make this easier?
I'm starting to lose my mind!
I'm starting to lose my mind!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Inthepast
Engine Install
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" FACE="Tahoma"]I am assuming you have the engine in and are trying to install an automatic tranny perhaps? If not and it's a manual then I wonder whether you are reinstalling the original components? Please clarify and perhaps someone can help.[/FONT]
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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE=" 2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-2" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE=" 2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-2" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2000
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Engine Install
Its a 400 backed with a C-6. Is the torque converter supposed to line up a certain way with the flywheel? If the torque converter is not seated right it would make it difficult to line up correctly. Hmmm
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Inthepast
Engine Install
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" FACE="Tahoma"]Yes it sure would make it difficult. I would fit the TC to the crank first to make sure it fits. If you converted from manual then you may have forgot to pull the pilot bearing. If the TC fits the crank properly and there is no space between the flywheel then you should be o.k. First put the TC on the tranny and then install the tranny and TC as a unit. I hope this helps[/FONT]
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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE=" 3" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-2" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
http://www.dealerconnection.com/DealerConnection/Themes/Standard/Ford/lgo-ford.gif
[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE=" 3" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-2" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
Junior User
Joined: Nov 1999
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Engine Install
What is happening is that your torque converter isn't properly seated into the front pump of your transmission.What you need to do is turn the torque converter until it clicks and starts going into the front pump,then you need to turn it more until you feel a second click and it goes in further.Now the torque converter should be recessed into the bellhousing a good couple inches.After bolting the engine up to the bellhousing,you line the 4 studs and the drain plug on the torque converter with the matching holes on the flywheel pull it out to the flywheel and then bolt them together.
I wouldn't try putting the torque converter on the flywheel and then putting them in to the transmission. I think the probability of ruining the front pump in the transmission would be in the neighborhood of about 99.9%.Good Luck, Alan
I wouldn't try putting the torque converter on the flywheel and then putting them in to the transmission. I think the probability of ruining the front pump in the transmission would be in the neighborhood of about 99.9%.Good Luck, Alan
Senior User
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Minneapolis
Engine Install
Listen to 79F150!!! I had the same problem on my 78 351m. After tearing up my front pump and stripping the splines on the input shaft, the motor mount ripped loose and the engine rotated under the hood. Push that torque converter ALL the way on. Then start to line up the bolts and studs. Trust me, you will only make this mistake once in life, unless some one out there wants to admit otherwise.
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Freshman User
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Engine Install
So I will slide the torque converter in all the way, bolt the engine to the bellhousing, then tighten the torque converter bolts through the flywheel inspection cover. If I do this I should be ok?
Nik
This is my first engine build and I'm afraid I'm going to screw it up!
Nik
This is my first engine build and I'm afraid I'm going to screw it up!
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Engine Install
Sounds about right to me. With the TC seated, everything should fit snug before tightening. We didn't remove a pilot bearing and the guy helping who is impact wrench heavy popped a corner off the C6.
John
jowilker
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
John
jowilker
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Virginia Beach
Engine Install
Man, 79f150 really hit the nail on the head with this one. One thing I'd add from my personal experience (78 351M - C-6). Once that T-C is fully seated, rotate it around so that you have a bolt sticking out at 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 o'clock positions. Then at the engine, rotate it so that the four holes the T-C bolts go into are in 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 o'clock positions too. This really helped me get the T-C lined up, plus once the engine is bolted up, you know you have one of the T-C bolts already there to bolt up in that little space the cover plate goes.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2000
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Engine Install
I agree with putting tc bolt at 12,3,6,9. One more thing before the tranny is in , it's always a good idea to replace the front seal on the tranny while you have the oportunity. It's only a couple of bucks and will save you a leak. Also remember to check the TC where it enters the seal. Any nicks will tear your new seal up. Put a little tranny fluid on your finger and rub it on the TC where it makes contact with the seal. Jack the tranny up with a floor jack before you try to bolt it to the motor it will make the task much easier.Don't worry about your motor mounts until the motor and tranny are completely bolted together. If needed reconnect your hoist to the front of the motor and lift it up a liitle to slip the mounts in.It may not be that hard with the 400 but thats what I had to do to get my 460 with a c6 into my truck. Good Luck
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
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Engine Install
I just completed a very simular project on my 79 F150 351 M with C6. If I recall correctly (and I think I do) the TC will click three (3) times not two (2). This makes A big difference as if the TC is not all the way on the pump it will cause you serious $$$$$ grief when you start it up. Anyway once the pump clicks three times, (I had to play with mine A LOT to get it to go like 20 minutes) it is properly seated. Now turn the flywheel so the when you drop the engine in the holes (drain) line up. Now slide the engine in, a little wobble left to right up and down and it should slide in. With the inspection plate removed manually turn the engine with the balancer in the front (or a screwdriver against the flywheel until you have all four nuts from the TC bolted through the flywheel and tight with the drain plug exposed! It reads a lot harder than it is but you MUST have the TC in right or your done before you even start. Good luck let me know how it goes.
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Engine Install
Oh yea, if its in right the TC will move just a little with the engine bolted up. If the TC is not all the way in it will put pressure against the flywheel and feel bound up, and you will know its wrong and have to start over.
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Engine Install
Thanks for all the replies.
My first try reinstalling the engine was also unsuccessful.
I made sure the t/c was seated properly, lined the flywheel holes up, and bolted the engine to the bellhousing. My mistake occurred when I tightened the t/c through the flywheel inspection cover. I tightened the first t/c nut too tight which caused the flywheel to hit the lower part of the bellhousing. I didn't realize this until after I had the motor mounts in and tried to turn the crank to tighten the other t/c nuts.
After pulling the engine out for the 100th time, I realized what I had done. Then I reinstalled the engine and gradually tightened all of the t/c nuts evenly and it appears that it will work.
My first try reinstalling the engine was also unsuccessful.
I made sure the t/c was seated properly, lined the flywheel holes up, and bolted the engine to the bellhousing. My mistake occurred when I tightened the t/c through the flywheel inspection cover. I tightened the first t/c nut too tight which caused the flywheel to hit the lower part of the bellhousing. I didn't realize this until after I had the motor mounts in and tried to turn the crank to tighten the other t/c nuts.
After pulling the engine out for the 100th time, I realized what I had done. Then I reinstalled the engine and gradually tightened all of the t/c nuts evenly and it appears that it will work.
Freshman User
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Engine Install
Nickolas,
That does not sound right to me. I think maybe your TC is not positioned correctly. If it were all the way on (3 clicks) it would be seated and you could tighten the nuts one at a time. You should be able to turn the flexplate with a screwdriver just be careful. Let me know how it turns out.
That does not sound right to me. I think maybe your TC is not positioned correctly. If it were all the way on (3 clicks) it would be seated and you could tighten the nuts one at a time. You should be able to turn the flexplate with a screwdriver just be careful. Let me know how it turns out.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 1999
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Engine Install
If you are installing a new converter, usually they come with instructions that have a measurement to reference. I just installed my new 400 C6 combo, and my TCI said the stud pads on the converter (flat area near each stud) should measure 1 1/8" from the face of the bell housing. The way to get this measurement is to use a straigh-edge (yard stick or something) across the engine mateing surface of the bell housing, and measure into the stud pad. I would assume that 1 1/8" measurement is most likely the same as the stock converter would be. My converter dropped in twice, and definatley measures correctly. So I know I'm all set. Just some extra info for ya.....
Good luck
Steve
Good luck
Steve