so I got the motor out of the donor (see Cab & Motor Swap - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums) and started on the body mounts etc for the cab swap and the cold weather set in .. originally I wanted to make this a quick and dirty job, but I'm over that .. so the motor is on a stand in the garage (gonna clean it up and maybe throw a coat of paint on it while I work on the cab swap on the warmer days) and I have the parts to do ..

oil pump
timing chain, gears
pilot bearing
front and real seals
new water pump
heddman longtubes
new clutch

the budget is quickly getting eaten up (I hunted the area recyclers but could not find a decent radiator support (NE salt), so I sprung for a new one). Called a local shop and they quoted $425 to redo the heads and that is more than I can spend (still gotta do heaps of **** (brake and fuel lines, shocks, etc) on the rest of the truck)

I have the motor stripped down to just the block and heads, is it worth it to pull the heads and just clean them up, or should I leave well enough alone?

I could probably afford a new cam/lifters (JEGS has a CompCams 260H w/lifters at for $175 (I'm open to other suggestions?)) but wonder if it's advisable considering the motor has about 130K on it?

any other "medium-ticket" items I should be thinking about ?

Also needs tips/hints on the best way to clean off all the gunk without getting it 'inside' the engine?

Thanks

PS. did a comp check on the motor before I pulled it, #1 was the highest at 162 psi, #5 & 7 were lowest at 140 & 142 psi, others were 148-152 psi

 

Are you retaining EFI or going to a carb setup? If EFI then that comp cam is not compatable, you need the 31-255-5 instead. That's highway robery on the heads too, they're not worth putting any $ into IMO.

 

sticking w/ EFI, thanks for the heads up on the cam .. does this mean you think I should go ahead and replace the cam?

in the back of my mind I am thinking I'll 'eventually' do complete rebuild of the original '87 motor (currently working on the the '89 donor as it was the best of the two 'as-is'), going for roller cam, redo (or replace) the heads and all that good stuff, but I'm gonna need my truck in the meantime ..

also, what options are there to replace the crappy fuel line fittings to the fuel rail, I'm ready to hack em off an do flare fittings if it's possible and no other options are better/easier ..

 

Yes replace the cam, the stock bumpstick barely opens the valves. The only crappy thing about the fuel line fittings is getting them apart.. which requires a special tool and usually some lubricant a lot of grunt and the patience of a saint. Otherwise they do the job and don't leak so it's probably better to not overthink the situation.

 

OK then ..

what lifters should I go with? ..

do the comp check numbers look good?

 

CR numbers look good, the Comp lifters will be fine just get some pro grade cam breakin grease(not lube) and follow the instructions to the letter.

 

As for the heads I would at least have them pressure tested. Also It would be a good Idea to have the machine shop test and see how well the valves seal.
Also make sure that you get the appropriate valve springs to go with your cam. On a side note, If your engine is totaly stripped down use easy off engine cleaner. I usually let it sit ove night and it takes 98 % of the gunk off. It will eaven take paint off. Just make sure that you wear a make and eye protection, that stuff is really potent.

 

heads are still on the block, the compression check numbers looked good (and the engine was running a few weeks ago) so I don't see a reason to pull them ..

can't find "cam break in grease", everything says "lube" .. got a name, number or link?

 

All the cam manufacturers have it, Comp cams has a grease based assembly lube COMP Cams: 8 oz. Engine Assembly Lube and they usually also supply an oil supplemt to be added for the breakin period.

 

I thought you had the engine apart My bad.

Crane cams makes a great moly based paste (grease) Got some not to long ago so you should be able to get it still. Also I think Isky makes it as well, They call it "Rev Lube" not 100 percent sure cause Ive only used the Crane brand im sure that there are others as well

ISKY Racing Cams, Do It Right. Race with the Legend.

This is what Ive always used... http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...Number=99002-1

 

found it .. they still call it 'lube', but eh .. just doing what I'm told ..

daveboy1 - where do I find the "easy off engine cleaner" .. does advance or autozone carry that, or do I find it in the grocery store (just bustin on ya) .. I had some 'industrial degreaser' I use with the pressure washer, just put some in a spray bottle and things are cleaning up nicely ..

now I've read up a bit (good or bad info, I don't know) but somewhere it said that certain cams need certain timing gear positioning .. I previously purchased a Cloyes chain and gear set C-3004K per the recommendation of the guy at JEGS, and he said it changes the timing and at the time I had (didn't know I was gonna change) the stock cam .. will this work with my just ordered Comp Cam #31-255-5 ?

 

I see no mention that this timing set changes the cam timing any and that's good the new cam will do that for you.

 

It is actualy Easy off OVEN cleaner. just about every grocery store has it

On the timing chain I think what the jegs guy was talking about is adjusting the cam timing. usuatly there will be multiple keyways in the crank sproket, and you can advance or retard or install the cam in its stock position. It is usualy used to fine tune the engine. Advancing it will open and close the valves a little later moving the power band down slightly in the RPM range and some times creates a little more low end torque. Advancing it does just the oppisite. It is usually not enough to tell the diffrence unless you take it to the dyno or the rack track. Some times it can be used as a tool though, so for instance you get to big of a cam. You can advance it, and it will add a bit more cylinder pressure. Or if you find that you have to much cylinder pressure (high compression, cam to small) you can retard the cam timing and it will bleed off some of the cylinder pressure and can reduce the chance of detonation amd possibly run on a lower octane fuel....Like I said its a tuning tool. For your application I would stab that cam strait up (stock position)n Call it good.

 

started scraping the gunk off the oil pan and now it has a hole in it .. guess I'd rather find out this way ..

so I found a cheepy chrome plated one for 'bout $70 .. I'm not big on chrome (doesn't lose heat as efficiently) especially since I know it will be flaking in a short time, but it's cheaper than any plain painted ones I came across .. can I just scuff it up and paint it, or will it flake anyway?

any thing good or bad about a cast alum oil pan? figure it would lose heat better, but are they too easy to damage?

 

Are you going to wheel it? The steel pan will bend, which is albeit bad, but the aluminum pan will just crack if you hit it on something.