1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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78' resto pictures and build thread

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  #61  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:44 PM
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haha yea im 17 and lookin for an old dentside...just want to find the right one instead of buying one and finding a better one down the road ya no...just wish my dad still had all his old dents he had and i do agree older is better....newer is more expensive as well...lol
 
  #62  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:46 PM
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yeah good luck on your find... newer stuff will not last as long i can tell you that well it might last but not be as reliable.
 
  #63  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by freakboy
Thanks old trucks and old cars will beat uncle bens powered cars anyday!
Yeah and this isnt even considered old in my book ahaha.. i still am sticking with my plans when this one is done im getting a 67-72 f350 outa my freinds woods and doing something with that...i cant remember the exact year though..
I agree ricers are junk
 
  #64  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:50 PM
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thanks freakboy ive been findin a few was supposed to go look at a 79 f250 today but when i called the guy to still make sure it was okay to come down he told me he sold it...didnt even call and let me know that lol....not to mention hes over an hour away...would have sucked if i woulda went down lol....and i also agree all my buddies are into them ricers and i tell em you get you best ricers and ill get my worst muscle car and still beat ya..!! lol
 
  #65  
Old 02-15-2010, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by freakboy
Oh alright ill have to go take a look at it then....

Well I am gona be ordering some new cab mounts from lmc here soon. any specific way i should go about doin this? cause i got the new floors almost in id just have to weld them in there. should i weld the floors in then figure a way to weld the cab mounts on or how should i go about doin this? remove cab lay it on its back then weld?
Why would you turn the cab upside down? what kind of welder to you have? You shouldn't have a problem welding inverted. If it's a mig wire feed, then you just turn up the feed setting, and it will weld upside down with no problem. I have not got a chance to look at my truck yet, but I assume that the cab mount is spot welded to the floor pan, so, if I have to replace mine, I will just drill holes in the floorpan along the flange, and rosette weld with the mig. That's how professionals would do it in a bodyshop. (I am a professional who owns a bodyshop)
 
  #66  
Old 02-16-2010, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by John68
Why would you turn the cab upside down? what kind of welder to you have? You shouldn't have a problem welding inverted. If it's a mig wire feed, then you just turn up the feed setting, and it will weld upside down with no problem. I have not got a chance to look at my truck yet, but I assume that the cab mount is spot welded to the floor pan, so, if I have to replace mine, I will just drill holes in the floorpan along the flange, and rosette weld with the mig. That's how professionals would do it in a bodyshop. (I am a professional who owns a bodyshop)
It is 10 times easier to weld the bottom of the cab when it it vertical then horizontal. The cab will be off the frame any way/ once the cab is on the ground all you do is grab it by the back window opening and lay it on its back. it can be done by a one armed person. I did all the under cab work on https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...s-79-f150.html in that
 
  #67  
Old 02-16-2010, 02:08 PM
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I guess if you already have it all apart... never installed floors from the bottom up, though. When I install a new floor, almost 98% of the welding being done is on the inside on the cab, not under it. will have to look through your pictures.
 
  #68  
Old 02-16-2010, 02:57 PM
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i think their talking about putting on cab mounts john
 
  #69  
Old 02-16-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ford1977owner
maybe i missed it...but how bad is your bed? most of the trucks ive came across here in pa were basiclly shot.. lol but it your pictures it didnt look so bad

the one side is kinda bad ill get better pictures then the other sides not to bad and there are some small holes in the floor of it mabey the size of a pencil that i can weld right on up.
 
  #70  
Old 02-16-2010, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by John68
I guess if you already have it all apart... never installed floors from the bottom up, though. When I install a new floor, almost 98% of the welding being done is on the inside on the cab, not under it. will have to look through your pictures.
Unless you can have the front of the cab magicaly float in the right position that you can stick em and weld em that would work... ahahah but for a normal human i dont see it working... it also gives me a oportunity to paint the under side of the cab easyer..
 
  #71  
Old 02-17-2010, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by freakboy
the one side is kinda bad ill get better pictures then the other sides not to bad and there are some small holes in the floor of it mabey the size of a pencil that i can weld right on up.

well its still better then most of the box's around here lol
 
  #72  
Old 02-17-2010, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by freakboy
Unless you can have the front of the cab magicaly float in the right position that you can stick em and weld em that would work... ahahah but for a normal human i dont see it working... it also gives me a oportunity to paint the under side of the cab easyer..

Here's how I do it. Your results may vary...

Jack up the front of the cab. drill out the spot welds for the old steel. clean all places where the new flanges will mount, using 36 grit wheels on an angled die grinder, or 4 1/2 grinder. place new cab mounts, with bolts and rubber. set teh cab back down. adjust position. tack weld. lift cab back up. finish welding in solid once placement is established. tada, done.

I have done a bunch of these. It wasn't too hard, but then again, I have a 2 post lift, 1 arm bandit, bottle jacks, floor jacks, and a bunch of spiffy equipment.

I could do it on limited equipment, but to someone doing it for the first time, it will look daunting.

can't blame you there. if you have the cab off the chassis, go ahead and tip it up. it would be easier. I am used to working on trucks fully assembled. I am not going to tear apart an entire truck to replace a small part. If you are restoring, I see where you are coming from.

but just know, it can be done.


Good luck!
 
  #73  
Old 02-21-2010, 04:50 PM
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yeah im restoring it and well i walked outside today to go check on everything making sure it was all good....(little paranoya in my lol) well walked over to the drives side and i heard a splash looked down and it was what looked like engine oil ALL OVER THE FLOOR... i was thinking god damn it its leaking oil.... well looked for the leak... nothing... then looked at the power stering box and the botom of it was drenched.... i dont know why it all of a suden took a dump but my power steering pump was bone dry last time i checked it... so im really really stumped.. mabey brake fluid? but that was also bone dry before... im really confused any input on this?
 
  #74  
Old 11-26-2010, 08:30 PM
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Hey Freakboy, I will be following your progress like hawk! Be sure to post pics of the floorpan process. I just uncovered the worst "reparation" job EVER.

Lifted the floormat, out of curiosity, and found the entire cab floor covered in bituminous "sound deadener" (sticky crap, that smiles like tar and doesn't come off your hands that easy. After scraping off the most of this goop, I found fibreglass!!!! Underneath the fibreglass was something that looked like a pasta strainer.

Needles to say, I was fuming, after I paid a "panelbeater" a heap of cash to respray and make my ride look like new. Fortunately, the damage is not as bad as yours, but bad enough to warrant a new floorpan, which I have fabbed out of a thicker guage galvanized steel plate. I'm building a tank!!!! Not taking any chances!!!

So, I know what you are going through. HAPPY BUILDING!!!!
 
  #75  
Old 11-27-2010, 07:39 AM
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Nothing like bringing up a dead thread
 


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