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the 7.3's have them in the filter assembley head. I am not sure about the 6.9's and as an added bonus, mine is a 7.3 and doesnt have one. Depends on where it was made/sent i believe. If you have wires attached to the top of the filter head unit then you have one.
My guess is it does not work, the wires are probably corroded off.
Unless you are in a very cold location, you should not need it anyway.
If you are in a cold location, just run some extra anti gell addative and you will be fine.
On my 87 6.9L my wires were all corroded and i was having fuel problems. I wasnt sure if that could be restricting anything so i took it out and replace it with a braided fuel line. looks better and i dont have to worry if it works or not. Ive had no fuel problems and I live in WI. It was -15 with the wind the other day and no problems. Like Dave said, a little addative and dont worry about it. If you do want it im sure you could jump 12v to it and check it with a laser thermometer to see if it heats up. as for if you temp sensor turns it on...well thats another story. I guess you could wait for a cold morning and hook up a test light to the wire thats sticking out from the heater element. then click your key forward and see if your getting power. like i said i dont have to worry about it but this is how i would go about testing it
thanks guys,I will try to test it. The last couple years I have noticed that in real cold weather it seems a little starved for fuel. -10 to -15 and below and I have never had these issues before and have never had to add any additive either. running the old gm 5.7s back in the 80s I would mix kerosene in the tank and never had a problem but have never done it in this 6.9
We have different fuel than we had a couple years ago. At 15 below and no additives you will one day be stuck. I spent a cold night last year at 26 below gelled up pulling a load and quit.
good to know,whats best? also a little off the subject but how many miles should I expect get out of an ip. I rebuilt it at 86k and was told it should be good indefinitly if I used treatment,which I did for the first 4 years or so but only once in a while nowdays. I now have about 300k on the truck.
Personally I have had IP's last close to 300,000 miles but I really think for optimum power and fuel milage 100,000 to 150,000 for the IP and injectors would be best.
I have come to the conclusion that perforormance detiorates so slowly that I don't even really realise it until she is performing way below par.
This would also depend on the quality of fuel you use and I think with the new fuel formulas they will not last as long with out additives as they used too.
Ps there was a billboard leaving coldfoot going north that said the new fuel was not guaranteed to even run after this point.
This is just my opinion. (no scientific facts here) It has been my experiance that after I have thought a motor was just tired the IP would finally give up and new IP and injectors would run like new again when I thought it was wore out for a year or two.