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Sticking Lifter Tip

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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 01:37 AM
  #1  
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From: Jackson, CA
Sticking Lifter Tip

Hey, don't know how many of you guy's have ever heard this before, but I just recently heard this from my grandfather who is really into vehicles. He restores cars in his spare time, does a lot of really nice work. Anyways... If anyone has this sticking lifter issue, like me... Quite annoying... And yes, I am trying to drag this out a little bit, lol...

ATF. Mix about half a quart in with your engine oil and it stops the annoying ticking noise. My grandfather suggested to run it for a couple hundred miles then change the oil, and I'm almost to the changing the oil point, but after putting in some of that transmission fluid, I haven't heard it since.

Just something to try if you're considering a lifter job. Thought I'd share my newly found information with you, lol. And I am serious about this if anyone doesn't believe me.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 01:53 AM
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I like Sea Foam the last 50 miles before a change but ATF would be cheaper.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 01:58 AM
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I was mostly just surprised it worked, not so much about the cost, but hey, whatever works, right? lol. I was using some CD2 Oil Detergent stuff, worked pretty good, but it is a little on the expensive side. ATF is a little cheaper than that and it worked, so I'm just gonna throw half a quart in whenever it starts to act up, if it does again. My grandfather said one of his friends picked up a car pretty cheap due to a sticking lifter. Put half a quart of ATF in, drove it home, changed the oil, never had a problem with it again. Not sure how true this story is, but he's never lied to me before, lol. I don't expect it to last that long, but it works good enough for me.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 09:04 AM
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Yup, I ran into this too. Older guys telling me to use ATF, or Marvel mystery oil. My truck had been setting in a barn for twenty years or so, and the vavles were about siezed up and and a quart of ATF really did the trick.

I eventually rebuilt the motor since ALL the gaskets were leaking so bad.

One of the other things older guys told me was to put four oz in every other time you fill up so I did in my 96 which ran just fine. On my way to work, I realized it was running so much smoother. So it made a believer out of me, so I keep MMO around all the time for this kind of stuff. Actually this past Saturday, I bought another gallon at Walmart, it was $13, and some change, so I am good for a while. They have smaller bottles if you want to try it out and see if it works for you.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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I get a tap only when its cold. May try the ATF sometime. Not using a Fram filter helps too.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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I had a auto teacher back in the day that would substitute a qt of atf for a qt of oil on every oil change he pulled a valve cover off and showed us it was the cleanest high mileage engine I've ever seen
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 08:12 PM
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What type of atf are you using? dexron?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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From: Halifx Pa
Originally Posted by rob8210
What type of atf are you using? dexron?


Does not matter the type.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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just not type f
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 08:22 PM
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so dexron is ok then? cool i'll have to try it out . my 1979 f250 4x4 runs pretty good, but i can't see this hurting it any either. thanks
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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It's funny this topic came up here,

In the saturnfans forums it is HOTLY debated as to wether it is safe.

From those who have done this it has not harmed anything and shown proven results.

In their case the saturn engines did not have oil drain holes in the pistons as most engines do.

So the rings tend to get carbon fouled and coked up needing re-rings.

Members their use the ATF qt 500 miles before their oil change to clean the pistons and lessen the chance of pistons getting coked up.

In their case the best cure is to put different pistons in with oil drain holes, but most have found that ATF works wonders for cleaning the engine due to having higher detergent modifiers in the oil.

They also like to use ROTELLA engine oil 5w40 ( not 15w40) made for use in GASOLINE engines as well as diesels because it has higher zinc than modern oils and provides less wear for the valves, something to consider.

When i had a 1983 Suzuki gs 550 E motorcycle i also used ROTELLA 15w40 this time for the same reasons that it offered better protection for the valvetrain. The GSRESOURCES suzuki forums SWEAR by this.
Just food for thought.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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try using rislone in the oil i add one quart of that to my oil and it works good i use to have a very loud tick but now its pretty quiet... it hasnt gone away because i dont run the engine much... like once a week to make sure it still runs before i put her in the garage to work on.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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From: Halifx Pa
Originally Posted by fordtech08
just not type f

Why not typ F? I used it and it seems to do what it was intended to do.




PS: On a side bar, try ATF with acetone for the BEST penatrating oil I EVER used. A 50/50 mix has loosened 32 years of rust on many bolts on my dent. Again, type of ATF does not matter.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tees77f150
Why not typ F? I used it and it seems to do what it was intended to do.




PS: On a side bar, try ATF with acetone for the BEST penatrating oil I EVER used. A 50/50 mix has loosened 32 years of rust on many bolts on my dent. Again, type of ATF does not matter.

wrong type f has friction modifiers it adds friction to your engine bad idea
 
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 12:59 AM
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From: Halifx Pa
Oh, ok, Thanks for the heads up. I guess in my case it really didn't matter as I rebuilt the motor anyhow.
 
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