390 Rebuild
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Joined: May 2000
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390 Rebuild
Have a 390 rebuild with an Edelbrock manifold and have heard to be extra careful with gasket around heads to prevent oil leaks... but, where specifically do I pay most attention ??? I have a felpro gasket set that has cork for front and back of manifold, but I don't think I want to put gasket material anywhere else; do I???
thanks,
mark
thanks,
mark
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
390 Rebuild
Use silicon at the front and back. Let it semi harden (skim over)and place the intake on.
John
jowilker
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
John
jowilker
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 60
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390 Rebuild
I agree with jowilker, don't use the cork end seals. They almost always leak. Just make a bead about 3/8" thick, let it harden for about 20mins or so... then install your intake-to-head gaskets, and set the intake on. good luck!
Steve
Steve
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 36
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390 Rebuild
Sorry, but I have to disagree with the other posts (and Edelbrock) when they say to not use the cork gaskets. I'v tried it Edelbrocks way (no gaskets) and end up with leaks!
What I'v found to be the best is to silicone the cork end gaskets to the block without the manifold in place (silicone on the block and block side of gaskets only). Then let it sit overnight or longer. Then you can silicone the top side (gasket to manifold side) and install the manifold. It's best if you torque to about 10 ft.lbs. and let it sit for at least a few hours so the silicone can dry, then torque it down. The result is NO GASKET SLIPAGE!
Make sure that you put a little extra dab of silicone on the corners (where the gaskets meet the heads) and you will have a totaly leak proof seal for years!
Just make sure to re-torque the manifold a couple of times after a few run cycles (15-20) or it will leak underneath (vacume, not oil)! I torque to 35 ft.lbs. even though the specs are for around 25.
This has proved itself on dozens of FE motors.
P.S. "Ultra Copper" silicone is the best I'v found.
What I'v found to be the best is to silicone the cork end gaskets to the block without the manifold in place (silicone on the block and block side of gaskets only). Then let it sit overnight or longer. Then you can silicone the top side (gasket to manifold side) and install the manifold. It's best if you torque to about 10 ft.lbs. and let it sit for at least a few hours so the silicone can dry, then torque it down. The result is NO GASKET SLIPAGE!
Make sure that you put a little extra dab of silicone on the corners (where the gaskets meet the heads) and you will have a totaly leak proof seal for years!
Just make sure to re-torque the manifold a couple of times after a few run cycles (15-20) or it will leak underneath (vacume, not oil)! I torque to 35 ft.lbs. even though the specs are for around 25.
This has proved itself on dozens of FE motors.
P.S. "Ultra Copper" silicone is the best I'v found.
