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Trying to understand gearing

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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Trying to understand gearing

Forgive me for asking a common question but I'm not exactly clear on how this works. 94 5.8 4x4 3.55 31's. I have a line on a good deal for some 3.73 gears for the rear for $50. Thinking of buying a matching set for the front and installing them on the truck. I know that ordinarily, the shorter gears (bigger number) will increase power but hurt fuel economy. With my taller tires though, would these gears actually give me better power and FE?

I have a very light foot and my truck runs great. I seem to average 11-12mpg in mixed driving unloaded exept for a canopy.

Truck currently spins about 1900rpm at 60mph. I'm wondering if the 3.73's would put me more in the sweet spot of the power curve also helping fuel economy?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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ok with 3.73 u will be turning about the same rpms u are now maybe a few more. thats being said u will probably get about the same mpgs but u will notice more torque and lot better mpgs if u tow a trailer. and if u ever go off-road u will crawl a little better in low....
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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Here is a site with fantastic animations to help you understand differentials and gearing:
HowStuffWorks "Open Differentials"

Also, when you increase tire size, you are effectively gearing your truck higher. To have relatively the same gearing as stock, you must regear the diff with numerically larger gears to offset the larger tire. You aren't going to notice much, if any, difference in fuel economy going from a 3.55 to a 3.73.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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oh yea and a 31x10.5 15 is pritty much the same size as a 265/75R15
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Only about a 5% difference in the gearing with those. Definitely not worth the effort beings it's a 4X4 and you would have to change both front and rear. Just my opinion.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Ok, so is there any real value in the switch to 3.73's then? I do tow a small 5th wheel (19 1/2' , 4000lbs) for summer vacations.

The stock tires were 235/75/15 which I think were 28" and my 31's are 30.5" I believe.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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unless u plan on putting 35s on it it really isnt going to be that noticeable
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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Wow that worst.

I get 16 mpg out 96 E350 15 passenger. 351W with 3.55 plus E40D. It weight 4 1/2 tons.

How I got 16 mpg. You need add vacuum gauge it will tell how bad your foot is.

Don't tell me how vacuum gauge can help if I have light foot. Just go get it $15 dollars.


You better keep 3.55 and you need raise to 65 mph since 60 mph is little lug for 351W.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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what brand boost/vacuum gauge are u using? lol i know i have a heavy foot my truck has a 302 geared 3.08 and i get like 14-15 mpgs
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Hitokori
what brand boost/vacuum gauge are u using? lol i know i have a heavy foot my truck has a 302 geared 3.08 and i get like 14-15 mpgs

Just find one you could get at store.

Sunpro or anything.


that truck with 302 that get 14-15 mpg is that in city or highway? That sound little normal for city.

I am not sure if it ok to put link here to other forum but don't want get in trouble

info about vacuum gauge. Econometer/Vacuum Gauge Installation Guide - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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its a little bit of both but mainly hwy... running average of 65mph i dont know how it would do on the interstate for long distances
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BCHauler
I have a very light foot and my truck runs great. I seem to average 11-12mpg in mixed driving unloaded exept for a canopy.
First thing is have you recalibrated the speedo? If not then your calculations are off and you're actually getter better milage than you think because the vehicle is travelling further than the odometer indicates.

If you're considering a gear change jumping to 4.10 makes more sense, it won't cost any more and will put more TQ on the ground which will help when towing. Overall milage won't be negatively impacted much if any as long as the speeds are kept conservative. 4.10's will give you a 16% increase in TQ across the board over what you have now while only increasing cruising rpm by 200-300, and while that is a negative it will be offset by the fact the transmission won't downshift as much on grades and the lighter engine load will reduce fuel demands.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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Late back to this thread - sorry.

Paul - I did recalibrate the speedo for the tires.

I paid attention to the rpms the last time I did some highway driving and the truck runs about 1750 rpms at 100kms. Does that seem too low? I'm wondering if the motor is lugging, not really sure what that sounds like.

The choice of 3.73 was mostly convenience. The guy basically gave me the rear gears ($30cdn).
 
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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I don't think you realize what you are getting into with a cheap set of used gears. One, you don't know that they're good. They could have small stress fractures in them from people towing too much with the truck. Not a huge worry but something to think about. I would never put used gears in my truck if I was going through the effort of changing gears. Another thing you have to think about is that it's not just the cost of the gears. You have to buy an install kit, which includes shims and bearings. Then you either have to pay to have the gears set up, get a buddy to help you who knows how to set gears up, or try it yourself. Then multiply all that by two because you have to change the front as well. Last, going from 3.55 to 3.73 isn't worth the effort and cost no matter how you look at it. The gains are very minimal and you're going to end up spending $500 on the swap.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BCHauler
I paid attention to the rpms the last time I did some highway driving and the truck runs about 1750 rpms at 100kms. Does that seem too low?
That would be good for cruising with an empty truck on flat ground but it works against you when you add weight and start climbing hills, more throttle needed to maintain speed and the transmission downshifts more.
 
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