Welding Question

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Dec 14, 2009 | 11:44 AM

#16

Harfend

Senior User

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 140

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From: Milwaukee, WI

Here is another plug for a MIG welder! I replaced entire panels and filled gaps using my Hobart 140. The shielding gas is an extra expense but worth the cost vs flux core wire. I am no welding or body man expert but I was very happy with the results I achieved. I have also used my welder on all sorts of repairs for my family and friends. Money well spent!

Good Luck!

Dec 14, 2009 | 12:22 PM

#17

classicford

New User

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 17

Likes: 0

I learned from a professional painter. DO NOT WELD welding the panels WILL distort the body and INCREASE the amount of plastic you have to use. Unless you are going for a show truck, avoid welding as much as possible. There is a glue made by 3M specifically for body panels. The breaking point is something like 600 degrees F or, I think 10 tons pressure. You screw the panel to the existing body while the glue dries overnight. Welding = Bad paint job. Especially if it's black. As far as cab corners and floor panels go, spot weld with a MIG welder or stick welder. Stick welders are usually a bit cheaper than MIG.

3M US: Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive

Good luck and take pictures as you go!

Dec 14, 2009 | 07:38 PM

#18

newrider3

Elder User

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 625

Likes: 1

From: Colorado

Huh? Do you think all the hot rodders with chopped and channeled *** cars used glue? Welding is perfectly fine as long as you use the proper procedure. You should just spot weld in one spot, then move across the panel and do another spot. As long as you keep spreading out your welds and don't heat one area all at once, you'll be fine.

Granted, I used panel adhesive when I replaced my roof skin. But those were repairs done at a seam. If you're doing something in the middle of a floorpan or panel, you need to get it flush and weld it in. The only way to use adhesive for those repairs is to leave an unsightly overlap, or spend the dough on special tools to flange the panel.

Dec 14, 2009 | 07:45 PM

#19

Richardl12

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 33

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Thank you all for the information you have provided me. Based on this everyone seems to think that MIG is the best. I think I am going to use oxy acetylene though because I have more experience at it and I am better at it and it just makes more sense for me because cutting is also possible with oxy-acetylene. Thanks to everyone for their opinions.

Dec 14, 2009 | 07:55 PM

#20

bashby

Post Fiend

Joined: Nov 2005

Posts: 7,437

Likes: 4

From: Charles Town, W bygod Va

I got a lot of good mig tips by searching youtube. You might be able to find some oxy/acet. welding videos if you want some tips

Dec 14, 2009 | 08:15 PM

#21

Brewtl

Senior User

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 175

Likes: 0

From: Australia

MIG welding is easier for light gauge steel than oxy. You can spot or stitch weld with the MIG , rather than run a full bead which would definitely cause the metal to warp. Oxy will definitely put too much heat into the metal.

I've got a Lincoln Electric 180C, great machine. It's 230V/15A but we run 240V standard down here.

Dec 15, 2009 | 01:10 AM

#22

70converter

Freshman User

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 31

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if you just need to do bed rail repairs i use oxo-acetylene and weld the holes up and grind them smooth. also saves me from having to take out my contacts to weld. but mig is the best way for most other body work or if gas isnt cheap i use a lot of gas oxo-acet welding.

Dec 15, 2009 | 03:34 AM

#23

Ken Blythen

Cargo Master

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 2,561

Likes: 69

From: New Zealand

Although mig is faster & easier, using oxy/acetylene will give high quality results. Before mig (& since too in some cases) it was the method used for nearly a century for all steel panelwork. It just takes more skill & time.
Googling 'hammer welding' will bring up proper technique pointers