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I pulled the engine and I had it rebuilt by a local race/high performance engine shop. The guys that did it said there is NO WAY they would have installed the head gasket wrong. With over $2,000 in the engine and $500 on cooling system, $600 exaust, and so on and so on, this has been a very frusterating experience.
Like I said everything in the cooling system is new. I spent half the day yesterday taking the water pump off to see if I installed the wrong gasket. As I suspected it was on right. Today I drove it and it heated up to 220 after about ten minutes of stop and go driving.
Well, I guess the only thing left to do is pull the heads and check the gaskets.
Nik, if the machine shop screwed up on the head gaskets, it’s most likely on the passenger side. The driver’s side gasket should say “Front” with the words facing up and the passenger side gasket should say “Front” with the words facing down. If this is the case, you should be able to detect that the passenger side of the engine runs hotter compared to the driver’s side. Nonetheless, your rebuilt engine should still be under warranty so let the shop worry about fixing the problem. Just curious, does your bottom radiator hose have the spring inside it?
Nik, Go back to the beginning, starting with the removal of the engine and list every part you put on as you re-installed the built motor. If this motor did not overheat before re-build then you or the rebuilder did something to cause this problem. Maybe something as simple as the wrong radiator cap, smaller drive pulley and so on..And as far as the Guys at the shop denying that they made a mistake...anyone can make a mistake! When we finally resolve this problem were all going to say "dang" it was that simple all along. I would have the speed shop pull those heads, its a big job and you may void your warranty. We don't want to let the speed shop Guys off the hook. You have really been busting your butt on this truck. I think its time the speed shop guys showed a little more interest in a customer with a problem. By the way what is the name of this shop?
William
I don't have a spring in the lower radiator hose.
I have been on the phone with about 4 or 5 different mechanics and I still have no ideas. One of the guys I have talked to said that 400's are supposed to run around 220! Well I told him mine would run at 220, then 225, then 230 and so on.
Has anyone had experience with high flow water pumps? I talked to the flowkooler the other day and they said they have never had a problem with pumps pumping water too fast. This is after selling thousands of these pumps.
The shop that built the engine is called Allen Motorsports. I want to have the truck towed to their shop and have them fu$% with it for a while.
I am going to give them another call and tell them my truck is on its way.
I don't have a spring in the lower radiator hose.
I have been on the phone with about 4 or 5 different mechanics and I still have no ideas. One of the guys I have talked to said that 400's are supposed to run around 220! Well I told him mine would run at 220, then 225, then 230 and so on.
Has anyone had experience with high flow water pumps? I talked to the flowkooler the other day and they said they have never had a problem with pumps pumping water too fast. This is after selling thousands of these pumps.
The shop that built the engine is called Allen Motorsports. I want to have the truck towed to their shop and have them fu$% with it for a while.
I am going to give them another call and tell them my truck is on its way.
Nik, this may be a long shot but worth checking. The lower radiator hose should have a spring inside it to help the hose retain its shape. Otherwise, the suction from the water pump can collapse the hose and cause a huge restriction while you’re cruising, causing the temperature to keep rising. A high flow water pump can aggravate this situation. You can check for this in your driveway, rev the engine and observe for any movement in the lower hose, it should remain rock solid. Don’t worry about the pump pumping too fast, the thermostat will provide the proper amount of restriction on the output side and will keep the impeller from cavitating.
Good Plan!!
>. I want to have the truck towed to their shop and have them fu$% with it for a while.
I am going to give them another call and tell them my truck is on its way.<<
Start it up and let it over heat in there yard. Remember what they have to say...
Other customers may want to know..
Tell them when it will idle for 1 hr without overheating you will be back to check on it.
Have you installed the VDO temp gauge !!
>One of the guys I have talked to said that 400's are supposed to run around 220! <<
Not Likely in my neck of the woods!
Maby on the ones with head gaskets installed wrong..
Drove truck again a couple of minutes ago. I have the VDO gague with VDO sensor installed in stock location on the block. I went ahead and installed the stock sending unit and gauge in the hole in the water pump normally occupied by a plug.
So .....
The VDO electronic gauge reads 230.
The stock gauge reads between the "O" and the "R" in "NORMAL"
Is it not possible to get an accurate reading off the water pump?
The truck did not boil over after driving it for 20 minutes but like I stated earlier it ran 230+.
Nik. I just finished up my newly rebuilt 400 last month. I made that stupid mistake of installing the passengers side head gasket backwards. (I wont do that again!!!). When it was like that, the engine temp was not high (180). I figure it was still running cool because the coolant was still circulating through the block, and not getting into that head. Being that the temp sender is installed in the block, it wont pick up the heat created in the head. What the engine was doing however, was it would make a loud thumping sound in the upper radiator hose when I shut it off. I'm guessing because once it was off the coolant would stop moving and come to rest on the surface of a VERY hot head. Anyway, my point here is, I doubt your head gasket is on wrong. Because mine was, and it didnt effect the temp at all. I did notice that the new engine paint was slightly more discolored on the passengers side head. Thats what led me to figure it out. Are you absolutly sure the engine wasn't bored more than .030??? Often times the M blocks run hot when they are bored too big. Mine is bored .030 and now runs a consistant 180, and will only see 185-190 when sitting in traffic on 80 degree days.
Good luck with it!!!
Nik, One would thing that the temp `Behind the stat would be higher..
Here is a long shot>> drain some water from the radiator drain **** while hot into a can or glass jar. check the temp there to see what is being `pulled into the engine..<<
that should give you some idea of what cooling effect you are getting from the radiator.. like top 197 bottom 150 ect...