Electrical Issue, Starting
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 95
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From: Hampton Falls, NH
Electrical Issue, Starting
This is my 1982 F-350 dump body. It's got the 300 and a t-18, it's 2wd, 131,000 miles
A couple weeks ago I decided to replace the battery, it's winter now and it sounded like it was getting weak.
A week after that the battery was dead. I came to find the alternator was bad.
Replaced the alternator, she's charging great. The ground fron the neg battery post ran to the alternator bracket.
This proved to be a problem last week. The truck wasn't getting a good ground so it was running current the the chassis. I changed the ground to run to the bell housing. Seemed to fix the problem. Started, charged, and ran great.
Got in the truck last night (I've put 50 miles on it since the last repairs) and the solenoid just buzzes. I tried a screwdriver across the solenoid posts, nothing. THe battery has power, I haven't put a multimeter on it yet to see if it's got 13.2 but the lights work and stuff.
WHAT THE HELL?
A couple weeks ago I decided to replace the battery, it's winter now and it sounded like it was getting weak.
A week after that the battery was dead. I came to find the alternator was bad.
Replaced the alternator, she's charging great. The ground fron the neg battery post ran to the alternator bracket.
This proved to be a problem last week. The truck wasn't getting a good ground so it was running current the the chassis. I changed the ground to run to the bell housing. Seemed to fix the problem. Started, charged, and ran great.
Got in the truck last night (I've put 50 miles on it since the last repairs) and the solenoid just buzzes. I tried a screwdriver across the solenoid posts, nothing. THe battery has power, I haven't put a multimeter on it yet to see if it's got 13.2 but the lights work and stuff.
WHAT THE HELL?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 4
From: patricia ab canada
Your lights are connected to the battery side of the starter relay. Sonds like you have a bad relay.I only use motorcraft relays,they are ten times better than those cheap imported one's.
Also inspect the cable from the relay to the starter, make sure your connections are tight and clean.
Also inspect the cable from the relay to the starter, make sure your connections are tight and clean.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 207
From: Washington
A bad starter can also cause a buzzing start relay.
If the starter has to high of a current draw it will drag down the battery voltage to say 6-7 volts, which will cause the starter relay to de-energize. The voltage jumps back up to normal which then re-energized the start relay. The process then repeats it self, which then turns the starter relay into a buzzer.
You can disconnect the fat wire that feeds the starter at the solenoid and see if you just get the normal single CLICK when you turn the key to START. If you get normal operation of the start relay I would remove the starter and have it tested at the auto part store.
Jim
If the starter has to high of a current draw it will drag down the battery voltage to say 6-7 volts, which will cause the starter relay to de-energize. The voltage jumps back up to normal which then re-energized the start relay. The process then repeats it self, which then turns the starter relay into a buzzer.
You can disconnect the fat wire that feeds the starter at the solenoid and see if you just get the normal single CLICK when you turn the key to START. If you get normal operation of the start relay I would remove the starter and have it tested at the auto part store.
Jim
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 4
From: patricia ab canada
A bad starter can also cause a buzzing start relay.
If the starter has to high of a current draw it will drag down the battery voltage to say 6-7 volts, which will cause the starter relay to de-energize. The voltage jumps back up to normal which then re-energized the start relay. The process then repeats it self, which then turns the starter relay into a buzzer.
You can disconnect the fat wire that feeds the starter at the solenoid and see if you just get the normal single CLICK when you turn the key to START. If you get normal operation of the start relay I would remove the starter and have it tested at the auto part store.
Jim
If the starter has to high of a current draw it will drag down the battery voltage to say 6-7 volts, which will cause the starter relay to de-energize. The voltage jumps back up to normal which then re-energized the start relay. The process then repeats it self, which then turns the starter relay into a buzzer.
You can disconnect the fat wire that feeds the starter at the solenoid and see if you just get the normal single CLICK when you turn the key to START. If you get normal operation of the start relay I would remove the starter and have it tested at the auto part store.
Jim
