DURA-LINER, RHINO-LINER, ETC ETC
#17
There are some good products out there and there are also new ones available too with some advantages.
#18
Environmental as in not exposing your self to toxins during application or in the use of the truck. You might burn wood for heat, but you take steps to make sure you don't inhale the smoke.
There are some good products out there and there are also new ones available too with some advantages.
There are some good products out there and there are also new ones available too with some advantages.
#19
i have had rhino in my trucks the first was the construction style and it would tare easy but they would fix it no "Q's" asked. and now in my new truck i have the thicker personal style and it is great nothing slides around. it is an issue when your trying to slide a heavy body part in there by your self. and i will be putting it in my 67 when i get that far.
i have heard of story's of beds rusting from the bottom and destroyed the floor.
i have heard of story's of beds rusting from the bottom and destroyed the floor.
#22
#24
#25
Did anybody notice when this thread was originally posted? 06-03-2000, that was 9 years ago. Who in the heck reactivated it? SEANSTER has probably had three trucks with bed liners since then. Anyway, if anyone is interested in my input. I bought a truck several years’ back that had a pretty beat up slide in bed liner in it so I decided to remove it. I found the bed under that liner was rusted to heck and I live in the desert where you never see rust. It must have just been from condensation. I personally would not use a slide in after seeing that. I would suggest that if you were not going to use a spray in liner and opt for a slide in to seal the heck out of that bed with some really good rust preventative. I can’t imagine what that truck bed would have looked like if it had come from back east where they really have a rust problem.
#28
There is also the option of marine carpet bed liners. They probably come in the color you want and don't seem to share the scuffing/scratching/rusting properties of a normal plastic type drop in liner.
POR15 is supposed to stop rust by absorbing moisture to cure. It did not work for me, but I can't rule out that the rust came from the other side of the metal somehow. The best anti-rust coating I've experienced is high ZINC content primer or "cold galvanizer". It has stopped my rust problems so far.
As far as which way is best to remove rust, it depends. If you use a brass hand brush it will not scratch up the good metal, but it will take a long time. If you use a steel wire hand brush, it will strip the rust faster, but also scratch up everything. Using drill power will be similar; mistakes will be larger but progress faster. Thin steel brushes on a drill might mot scratch too much. Then, you have the high power stuff - if you use an angle grinder, you will cut through the bed. (In my opinion, time, hand brushes and some good cleaners would give the best result. Despite what you may think, hand brushes can ultimately be easier for the job than drill brushes.)
#30
Seanster is obviously having trouble with this decision, researching, comparing, looking around and asking questions for nine years. Mix 1 part sand with 1 part interior flat latex paint and 1 part chopped pencil erasers. Poor into bed and apply to entire bed with a small fuzzy dog for best texture and environmental effect. Lay strips of wood the thickness of yard sticks every few inches along the bottom of the bed before dry. Sprinkle crushed rust over bed so the rust monsters think it's already rusty and pass it by. Then buy a can of Krylon the color you desire and paint your rear window so your bed looks that color from the cab. Poke a screwdriver through the bottom of the fuel tank and drive all over and re-fill with fuel until dry. Soak Coal in freon in the bed...