problems and where to start
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Do you have the vacuum diagram on the top of your core support?
Make sure the line to the distributor is connected to the proper location.
When the motor is idleing is there vacuum on that hose and does it drop off when you hit the throttle?
Make sure the line to the distributor is connected to the proper location.
When the motor is idleing is there vacuum on that hose and does it drop off when you hit the throttle?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: agricultural cover desert
no my vacume hose comes from the same place as it always has off of my carb about where the choke adjust is. it goes in to the distributer in the front right where the vac advance is. i have the late model 2100 with the 2 barrels accel pump up front and some plunger right behind the throat i think on a flat spot i will take pics and link for you to see.
any way yes there is some vacuum at idle. but as soon as i pulled it off i had mid throttle. i drove it like that and yeah fixed so that leads me to the conclusion that :
1 i need a new vacuum advance.
2 as i was working on it i noticed i need a new cap.
3 since i need a new cap i should replace the rotor as well.
4 while i am at it new points and condenser don't cost much.
any way yes there is some vacuum at idle. but as soon as i pulled it off i had mid throttle. i drove it like that and yeah fixed so that leads me to the conclusion that :
1 i need a new vacuum advance.
2 as i was working on it i noticed i need a new cap.
3 since i need a new cap i should replace the rotor as well.
4 while i am at it new points and condenser don't cost much.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Canada
First off what size is the motor?
Different versions of vacuum routing exists for different years & motors.
Check out this link and try and identify yours Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section I - FORDification.com
Im thinking its: Transmission Regulated Spark Control System - 8 Cyl - 360, 390 CID Engine
If yes the vacuum line from the distributor should come from the manifold not the carb.
When connected and at idle with the engine warm there should be full manifold vacuum at the distro and set the timing with the hose connected.
Then when the throttle is opened the vacuum drops and allows the distributor to advance the timing.
As I said previously there are many different setups but if the distributor vacuum is not correct it will screw up the timing bigtime.
Different versions of vacuum routing exists for different years & motors.
Check out this link and try and identify yours Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section I - FORDification.com
Im thinking its: Transmission Regulated Spark Control System - 8 Cyl - 360, 390 CID Engine
If yes the vacuum line from the distributor should come from the manifold not the carb.
When connected and at idle with the engine warm there should be full manifold vacuum at the distro and set the timing with the hose connected.
Then when the throttle is opened the vacuum drops and allows the distributor to advance the timing.
As I said previously there are many different setups but if the distributor vacuum is not correct it will screw up the timing bigtime.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: agricultural cover desert
First off what size is the motor?
Different versions of vacuum routing exists for different years & motors.
Check out this link and try and identify yours Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section I - FORDification.com
Im thinking its: Transmission Regulated Spark Control System - 8 Cyl - 360, 390 CID Engine Those are for 1972 engines mine is a 71 also mine is a 250 not 100.
If yes the vacuum line from the distributor should come from the manifold not the carb. I haven't looked too much into where it comes from as i haven't messed with the location of the vacuum line. it is where it was since i have bought it and when it ran right.
When connected and at idle with the engine warm there should be full manifold vacuum at the distro and set the timing with the hose connected.
Then when the throttle is opened the vacuum drops and allows the distributor to advance the timing.
As I said previously there are many different setups but if the distributor vacuum is not correct it will screw up the timing bigtime.
Different versions of vacuum routing exists for different years & motors.
Check out this link and try and identify yours Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section I - FORDification.com
Im thinking its: Transmission Regulated Spark Control System - 8 Cyl - 360, 390 CID Engine Those are for 1972 engines mine is a 71 also mine is a 250 not 100.
If yes the vacuum line from the distributor should come from the manifold not the carb. I haven't looked too much into where it comes from as i haven't messed with the location of the vacuum line. it is where it was since i have bought it and when it ran right.
When connected and at idle with the engine warm there should be full manifold vacuum at the distro and set the timing with the hose connected.
Then when the throttle is opened the vacuum drops and allows the distributor to advance the timing.
As I said previously there are many different setups but if the distributor vacuum is not correct it will screw up the timing bigtime.
i really operate with 3 principles
1 logic
2 planning
3 why not?/ what if.
i know some of my past comments on here got you all looking at me wierd but like i said i start off with alot of fore thought and whittle it down till it is pratical.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: agricultural cover desert
also i did look at what the drawing look like my 79 caddy had a system like that and it is for smog control. on the caddy it was bypassed by and arsehole mechanic who jacked my outa a lot of money *part of the reason i got this truck*. after that time i made sure to not ever buy a smog equipted vehicle. i am the mechanic *ok laugh at me when i say that 
* and i keep her running. not turbo charged running 1/4 mile drags. not running off road and towing 300 miles up hill both ways. just running i go out turn the key and drive to work or the store do what i need to do and drive home. please note that i catch alot of flack for my views on that issue and i am not giving you attitude as fighting on the web is like yelling at the wind because you got urin on your leg when you were pissing into to it .
btw thanks for the link to all the technical drawings i have been trying to find some way to get that type of info especially with how the lights are wired .
* and i keep her running. not turbo charged running 1/4 mile drags. not running off road and towing 300 miles up hill both ways. just running i go out turn the key and drive to work or the store do what i need to do and drive home. please note that i catch alot of flack for my views on that issue and i am not giving you attitude as fighting on the web is like yelling at the wind because you got urin on your leg when you were pissing into to it .btw thanks for the link to all the technical drawings i have been trying to find some way to get that type of info
especially with how the lights are wired .
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
Interesting find on the vacuum unit. Now if it were me, I'd say that when I disconnected the vacuum advance, the timing would be retarded. And retarded timing compensates for a rich mixture. And a rich mixture indicates carb problems.
But....hard to troubleshoot over the net. It's just an odd thing to have happen....you disconnect something that is there for a reason, and the engine runs better..............
But....hard to troubleshoot over the net. It's just an odd thing to have happen....you disconnect something that is there for a reason, and the engine runs better..............
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Canada
On a ford disconnecting the vacuum advance will advance the points/timing.
GM is opposite cause the distro spins clockwise and must suck the diaphram forward to advance it.
If you set the timing on a ford with the vacuum line off....when you reconnect it
it will be retarded.
I dont use a light to set timing for performance as every motor breathes different.
Some of you will say im crazy for that.
with the hose connected turn the distributor so it idles best and has decent throttle response take it for a drive ...if it pings at high rpm, you need to retard the timing a bit.
Depending if you want more bottom end performance or at high rpm you will find the sweet spot by adjusting the distributor slightly.
Always works for me.
GM is opposite cause the distro spins clockwise and must suck the diaphram forward to advance it.
If you set the timing on a ford with the vacuum line off....when you reconnect it
it will be retarded.
I dont use a light to set timing for performance as every motor breathes different.
Some of you will say im crazy for that.
with the hose connected turn the distributor so it idles best and has decent throttle response take it for a drive ...if it pings at high rpm, you need to retard the timing a bit.
Depending if you want more bottom end performance or at high rpm you will find the sweet spot by adjusting the distributor slightly.
Always works for me.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: agricultural cover desert
yeah ford guy i am with you i have never gotten the light to work for me right. i use it to diagnose and see with my eyes but as i have stated before i did it by sound and feel
weird this time with the hose and all. at least it started to run good enough to get back onto the original track and time table with a few added need now parts.
with in the next year i hope to be able to yank the motor out and since my goal for this truck is absolute longivaty i will be replacing every thing from the bottom up. i figgure it has lived almost 40 years and personally only cost me 3 days of work outa about 5 years of ownership. i owe it the best i can and then expect another 40 when done.
but till i get on with the rebuild i have to just keep her running. which is what she is good at doing even if she gets a little cranky some times
weird this time with the hose and all. at least it started to run good enough to get back onto the original track and time table with a few added need now parts.
with in the next year i hope to be able to yank the motor out and since my goal for this truck is absolute longivaty i will be replacing every thing from the bottom up. i figgure it has lived almost 40 years and personally only cost me 3 days of work outa about 5 years of ownership. i owe it the best i can and then expect another 40 when done
.but till i get on with the rebuild i have to just keep her running. which is what she is good at doing even if she gets a little cranky some times
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
was the vacuum advance line connected to manifold or port vacuum. It should only be connected to port vacuum- there's a special nipple for that on your carb. I don't know which one it is on a motorcraft, but someone on this thread does.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thewellman
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
25
Dec 31, 2011 06:43 PM
HighboyMac
Fuel Injection, Carburetion & Fuel System
4
Nov 10, 2006 11:00 PM
