81 electronic ignition no fire
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
81 electronic ignition no fire
81 f-250 400ci. The truck died. Changed coil. Started and ran about 10 sec. then died. Never fired again.
I have another truck that I pulled up and changed the coil, ignition module, wiring harness, and distributor. I also checked the 2 leads coming from the firewall and compared the 2 trucks. As far as I can tell everything is the same. Still no fire. Have tried 3 coils and 3 ignition modules and they work on the running truck but not the other.
Anybody got any ideas. I am about 1 day away from converting it to points ignition.
I have another truck that I pulled up and changed the coil, ignition module, wiring harness, and distributor. I also checked the 2 leads coming from the firewall and compared the 2 trucks. As far as I can tell everything is the same. Still no fire. Have tried 3 coils and 3 ignition modules and they work on the running truck but not the other.
Anybody got any ideas. I am about 1 day away from converting it to points ignition.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
It is getting plenty of fuel but there is no spark from the coil.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
With the key ON, not running, you should have fully battery voltage (12 volts) on both sides of the coil in a DS2 system. In a points dist, only when the points are open will you see 12v on both sides of the coil.
Try running a jumper wire from the battery POS to the coil POS.
Also have you done the "blinking light test" on the coil NEG.
Jim
Try running a jumper wire from the battery POS to the coil POS.
Also have you done the "blinking light test" on the coil NEG.
Jim
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
My 84 only has 6 volts on both sides of the coil and it runs. IDK
What is the flashing light test you speak of?
What is the flashing light test you speak of?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
The coil NEG is also marked TACH TEST.
When you say... "6 volts on both sides of the coil" do you mean one test lead of the meter on the coil POS and the other on the coil NEG?
I would still try running a jumper wire, battery POS to Coil POS to see if it helps.
Jim
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
No, ground to coil neg. and then ground to coil pos.
I read about your flashy light test and dirt cheap ignition on another post. Wish I read that before I ordered the parts to switch it to points.
I am still gonna do some testing though. I hate letting these simple old trucks beat me. It just ain't right.
But I still just can't fathom how I put all the parts off my truck on it including the engine harness and it still won't work. I just can't believe it.
I read about your flashy light test and dirt cheap ignition on another post. Wish I read that before I ordered the parts to switch it to points.
I am still gonna do some testing though. I hate letting these simple old trucks beat me. It just ain't right.
But I still just can't fathom how I put all the parts off my truck on it including the engine harness and it still won't work. I just can't believe it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
Yes rotor is turning.
I tried to check the coil with the blinking light test. I put the tester on the pos. side of the coil and the light lit. Dad turned the key from on to crank position. At a small point between run and crank the light got noticeably brighter. When it starts cranking it goes dim again. I put the tester on the negative side of the coil and the light neither lit in the run position or blinked in the crank position. I grabbed the coil off a running truck and put it on. The test results were the same.
Thanks for the help guys, I can tell from searching that you have been through this with other people, but I just can't seem to get it to go.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
"I put the tester on the negative side of the coil and the light neither lit in the run position or blinked in the crank position."
It would seem the NEG side of the coil is being pulled to GROUND continually. It should be an open - close thing, like points opening and closing.
With the KEY ON put the test light on the coil NEG, then pull the 4 wire connector apart at the DS2 module to see if the light comes on. If it does the DS2 module is providing the constant ground.
If, after separating the connector, the test light is still not ON, check the green coil wire for a "short to ground" between the coil NEG and the DS2 module.
Do you have a round coil with the slide on connector?
Jim
It would seem the NEG side of the coil is being pulled to GROUND continually. It should be an open - close thing, like points opening and closing.
With the KEY ON put the test light on the coil NEG, then pull the 4 wire connector apart at the DS2 module to see if the light comes on. If it does the DS2 module is providing the constant ground.
If, after separating the connector, the test light is still not ON, check the green coil wire for a "short to ground" between the coil NEG and the DS2 module.
Do you have a round coil with the slide on connector?
Jim