F600 Wheels
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Just give him the applications, he doesn't go by Ford part numbers.
Just make sure you speak with Marty (he's the owner), the rest of the help will be clueless.
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
I found the same B7T1015B in the Chassis Manual and, since it's applicable to the 1956 trucks, that would make it stud piloted. Also like Bill said, there are others in a 5.25" and 6.00" widths that would have been early and thus stud piloted.
The D8HZ1015P is probably a hub piloted wheel given its start date, but why none are shown specific to the middle years is a puzzle. I know that I've got gaps in my wheel info because I can't find your specific wheel with its RH-5° outer rim. I find others, even made by Budd, that were hub piloted tube type but with lock ring outer rim designs. So, it helps you know that wheels exist out there somewhere, but finding them is a different matter.
Something to keep in mind also if you find wheels. The narrowest 22.5" tire available today is a 9R22.5. The earlier wheels were the 5.25" and 6.00" variety that were spec'd for 7" and 8" tires that are NLA. It's interesting to me that the Ford Chassis Manual for the 6" rims says they'll accept 9" tires, while the wheel manufacturers info says they should not. If you have a choice, get the 6.75" or wider rims. Stu
The D8HZ1015P is probably a hub piloted wheel given its start date, but why none are shown specific to the middle years is a puzzle. I know that I've got gaps in my wheel info because I can't find your specific wheel with its RH-5° outer rim. I find others, even made by Budd, that were hub piloted tube type but with lock ring outer rim designs. So, it helps you know that wheels exist out there somewhere, but finding them is a different matter.
Something to keep in mind also if you find wheels. The narrowest 22.5" tire available today is a 9R22.5. The earlier wheels were the 5.25" and 6.00" variety that were spec'd for 7" and 8" tires that are NLA. It's interesting to me that the Ford Chassis Manual for the 6" rims says they'll accept 9" tires, while the wheel manufacturers info says they should not. If you have a choice, get the 6.75" or wider rims. Stu
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help. You guys are great!!
I did call my local tire shop yesterday to have them confirm what they they can get. They will check on Monday. Maybe between all these leads, I will get lucky and keep my 64 on the road a few more years.
I did call my local tire shop yesterday to have them confirm what they they can get. They will check on Monday. Maybe between all these leads, I will get lucky and keep my 64 on the road a few more years.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
I wonder if you could use the stud-piloted wheels by changing lug-nuts as long as the center hole is big enough and the bolt pattern is correct. I used to have a '66 F-600 with 6-hole stud piloted wheels.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
I was wondering the same thing.... I can see how the single front wheels would work. But for the rears, I think you would need to use a inner and outer lug to keep the inner dual centered. I have no experience with that setup. Does anyone know if that can be done?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 411
Likes: 5
From: Cle Elum WA
I went from this....
To this by simply changing lug nuts...
Hub Pilot to Stud Pilot...
The problem I ran into on the the rears, was somone had replaced the studs on this truck before and used really long rear studs...When I went to put the inner nut on, the stud bottomed in the nut....No big deal I thought, so I shortened it up with a cutoff wheel...Thought I had it dicked.
Then I discovered that the rear studs had a extremely long shoulder that protruded from the face of the hub...the threads of the inner nut would hit that shoulder before the inner wheel got tight...
So I need to get shorter studs for the rear hubs...then the wheels will bolt up correctly.
Yours might be fine, you would have to just try it.
My tires were decent so I just opted for some used welded, 20" regular lockring wheels so that I could re-use my tires.
I paid 20.00 each for my wheels, used.
If you go this route, go to a truck parts shop like Six Robblees for lug nuts, you'll pay like .75 to 1.25 each, instead of 5.00 each from your local retail Tire Robbers. By the way Six Robblees also sells truck wheels.
Greg
To this by simply changing lug nuts...
Hub Pilot to Stud Pilot...
The problem I ran into on the the rears, was somone had replaced the studs on this truck before and used really long rear studs...When I went to put the inner nut on, the stud bottomed in the nut....No big deal I thought, so I shortened it up with a cutoff wheel...Thought I had it dicked.
Then I discovered that the rear studs had a extremely long shoulder that protruded from the face of the hub...the threads of the inner nut would hit that shoulder before the inner wheel got tight...
So I need to get shorter studs for the rear hubs...then the wheels will bolt up correctly.
Yours might be fine, you would have to just try it.
My tires were decent so I just opted for some used welded, 20" regular lockring wheels so that I could re-use my tires.
I paid 20.00 each for my wheels, used.
If you go this route, go to a truck parts shop like Six Robblees for lug nuts, you'll pay like .75 to 1.25 each, instead of 5.00 each from your local retail Tire Robbers. By the way Six Robblees also sells truck wheels.
Greg
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Greg,
Thanks for the info. So my rear wheel studs are all single lug. I should be able to find inner lug nuts that would allow me to switch to lug centered wheels for the rear duals? That would be nice.
When I look at your pictures... it looks like your new wheels also have the same hub centered inner bore diameter. Looks the same as your WM wheel. What was different between your wheels? Larger and beveled bolt holes for your new lug nuts?
Joe
Thanks for the info. So my rear wheel studs are all single lug. I should be able to find inner lug nuts that would allow me to switch to lug centered wheels for the rear duals? That would be nice.
When I look at your pictures... it looks like your new wheels also have the same hub centered inner bore diameter. Looks the same as your WM wheel. What was different between your wheels? Larger and beveled bolt holes for your new lug nuts?
Joe
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Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 411
Likes: 5
From: Cle Elum WA
I never measured the center...but they don't fit as tight on the hub as the widowmakers.
Yes, the lug nut hole is much bigger and tapered for the nut.
With a stud pilot, as long as the center hole is big enough to go over the hub you are good.
The wheel is now centered by the lug nuts.
I'll go out in the garage and get a Inner and outer nut for the rears and take a pic if your not familiar with them.
Greg
Yes, the lug nut hole is much bigger and tapered for the nut.
With a stud pilot, as long as the center hole is big enough to go over the hub you are good.
The wheel is now centered by the lug nuts.
I'll go out in the garage and get a Inner and outer nut for the rears and take a pic if your not familiar with them.
Greg
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
Here's some additional pics to help you see the differences. First is a diagram of the stud piloted ball seat mount.
Next is the hub piloted diagram.
Last, I'll include the pic I use to show the stud piloted nut combo.
Next is the hub piloted diagram.
Last, I'll include the pic I use to show the stud piloted nut combo.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Stu,
Thanks for the drawings. Makes if very clear how they work.
Do you have experience in using lug centered on a hub centered application? I see that some of the lugs on lug centered are RH and LH. So maybe if I used RH lugs, it would work? Also I was wondering if my studs would be rated to carry the full load. Maybe they are not as strong since not intended to be used that way?
Joe
Thanks for the drawings. Makes if very clear how they work.
Do you have experience in using lug centered on a hub centered application? I see that some of the lugs on lug centered are RH and LH. So maybe if I used RH lugs, it would work? Also I was wondering if my studs would be rated to carry the full load. Maybe they are not as strong since not intended to be used that way?
Joe
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
Joe - No, I've never done it and can't recommend it since the manufacturers never did. My knowledge base is as a parts man, not as an engineer. But that said, both systems used 3/4 x 16 tpi lugs of the same strength. The hub piloted are all right hand thread, so if you did it you'd be frequently checking torque on the nuts. And going back to Greg's comment about the inner nut not snugging up the inner wheel, I think you'd have the same problem. Looking at the hub piloted diagram you'll see that the lug base extends into the wheels filling the wheel's lug hole. That will probably impede the seating of the inner nut on the stud piloted system. I guess you could change all the lugs from hub pilot to stud pilot, as long as you can find the correct sized new lugs. Stu