strait axel swap
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strait axel swap
i dont know a lot about fords just started to get into them. i have the split axel in my 84 f-150 i want to go to a solid axel, i runn 31"s but am going to 33" over the winter. but my major problem is that the top of the front wheels tilt in way to far ive had it allined 5xs but they still are cupping the inside of my tires i 4x4 and drive it on a daily basis.i was wondering what would be the best and easiest swap or a way to fix my problem thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
You really don't need to do a SAS for 33's unless you just really want to, but your best option would be a 78/79 Dana 44 out of a bronco or F150.. disc brake and 5 lug. Look in the tech thread and you should find all the info you need to do it, or 9.ford.5's SAS thread around here somewhere.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Springfield, VA
There's tons of people that have done this swap. Me included. but as Paul said, for 33's and mainly street driving, you may be better suited to look at more than just the alignment. Sounds like your ball joints are bad, considering the cupping to the inside of the tires.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Olympia
9.Ford.5 has a SAS thread floating around on the first page that will help you out.
I disagree with Kjett though, I mean.. if you're going to wheel it, you might as well SAS it and not worry about it breaking again.
I disagree with Kjett though, I mean.. if you're going to wheel it, you might as well SAS it and not worry about it breaking again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Springfield, VA
Now, had he said he used it mainly offroad and wanted to fit 36's or bigger, by all means SAS with a 60 front and 10.25 rear would have been the 1st words from my mouth.
I just hate giving recommendations that will end up not being used to their full potential and as aresult make it harder down the road for me and others to find the parts when we need them.
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From the sounds of things that alignment shop isn't worth a crap. 5x's and it still aint right? After the first time I would expect the tires to be dead on where they are supposed to be. Did they atleast tell you what needed fixing. That sounds like the balljoints are the culprit. Mine are shot and I have more negative camber than my bagged ranger. I thought cupping was a result of a tire being out of ballance. Negative camber just wears the inside edge faster than the rest.
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hey guys thanks for the imput. i never inagined this many responses let alone in this amount of time. i will take all into consideration this truck i cant decide where im going with this truck. i may take it into a higher direction in the future. im torn between an off road truck of a nice on roader with ocasional weekend warrior its an 84 f150 stepside 351 ho and its all factory stock exept a 4 spd swap but i have the orriginal c-6 auto on the floorand all the parts swaped out for it. i need to spend more time searcing throw all the topics because im entertainig putting a 4.6 triton in it so thans. any one whom was any info or experiance with any topics send any info my way thanks in advance
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Springfield, VA
truf, plus with all the added wiring and crap of the 4.6, the 460 can make huge amounts of hp and tqe with very minimal amount of work above the stock configuration.
There is a Tech thread stickied at the top of the offroad section with a bunch of links to tech articles on all sorts of stuff. Start there and then work your way through the rest of the board. You won't be disappointed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
You're going to have to decide what you want to do with the truck first before we can give you a definite answer on the best way tot go about it.
I don't think you'd be happy with all the work it would take to put a triton in there for about the same power you'd get out of a couple bolt ons for that 351weezer. My vote would be a mild stroker with your 351 block as far as your motor is concerned.
For driveline, and this is just my personal thoughts, if you want to go to around a 35" tire go with a solid D44 for the front. If you think you'll ever go bigger than that it's time to step up to one tons - assuming you'll be running trails and things like that. If this is a mud bogger half ton junk will be fine for straight line mud runs in that light little truck.
Anyway, before I type too much more that should give you a place to start thinking about things.
I don't think you'd be happy with all the work it would take to put a triton in there for about the same power you'd get out of a couple bolt ons for that 351weezer. My vote would be a mild stroker with your 351 block as far as your motor is concerned.
For driveline, and this is just my personal thoughts, if you want to go to around a 35" tire go with a solid D44 for the front. If you think you'll ever go bigger than that it's time to step up to one tons - assuming you'll be running trails and things like that. If this is a mud bogger half ton junk will be fine for straight line mud runs in that light little truck.
Anyway, before I type too much more that should give you a place to start thinking about things.
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From: raymond alberta
35's or higher with med-heavy offroading go SAS at least 1/2 ton...
my uncle runs 33's on his TTB in a 96 f150 4x4 no lift and he does some really crazy stuff with that little bugger and hes never had any problems with the TTB
if you plan on keeping to the street for the most part keep the TTB...your bladder will never forgive you for swapping in that solid axle, feels like you are driving an overloaded gravel truck so from what you have said id say try a different alignment shop
my uncle runs 33's on his TTB in a 96 f150 4x4 no lift and he does some really crazy stuff with that little bugger and hes never had any problems with the TTB
if you plan on keeping to the street for the most part keep the TTB...your bladder will never forgive you for swapping in that solid axle, feels like you are driving an overloaded gravel truck so from what you have said id say try a different alignment shop
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From: raymond alberta
really? what springs you have? ... i used BDS...rougher than hell and have yet to experience this "flex" thing ive heard people talking about??? haha i basically chose them for the warranty...i was told "break it, bend it, or blow it up and we replace it free no questions asked" ... i said "SOLD!"
but if i ever lift it any higher im going 1 tons and Super Duty leafys so it rides a bit better LOL but i bought 6" BDS springs for the rear and ditched the 2" block to make it 4" lift...so if i ever want to go more i have 2" for free LOL and the SD leafs get about 7" and with 6" on the rear that would be perfect...it will look something like that bronc up there
but if i ever lift it any higher im going 1 tons and Super Duty leafys so it rides a bit better LOL but i bought 6" BDS springs for the rear and ditched the 2" block to make it 4" lift...so if i ever want to go more i have 2" for free LOL and the SD leafs get about 7" and with 6" on the rear that would be perfect...it will look something like that bronc up there
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
Superflex 4" lift springs from Deaver (bought them on bronco graveyard)
Very flexy. Very awesome. Cage makes good ones too, I hear.
Did a shackle flip for the rear, shackle angle isn't right so it doesn't ride very smoothly in the back, just a matter of moving the front hanger back an inch or two though.. when time permits, that is.
Anyway, point is ride has little to do with solid/ttb/coil/leaf and everything to do with spring rates and shocks. The TTB has the advantage of not transfering shock from one side of the road across the axle or hopping around when you hit a bump in a turn, but ehh .
Very flexy. Very awesome. Cage makes good ones too, I hear.
Did a shackle flip for the rear, shackle angle isn't right so it doesn't ride very smoothly in the back, just a matter of moving the front hanger back an inch or two though.. when time permits, that is.
Anyway, point is ride has little to do with solid/ttb/coil/leaf and everything to do with spring rates and shocks. The TTB has the advantage of not transfering shock from one side of the road across the axle or hopping around when you hit a bump in a turn, but ehh .