I bought both 4.30 axles (rear limited slip) for $1,000. The front is from an 2001 CC F350 V10 and rear from a 99 SC F250 V10 (thats the info i got off the vins).

I reused both of my front and rear calipers, but the rotors where better on the new-to-me stuff so i used them. Also the front rotors are differend from the early 99s to later stuff. My u-bolts just needed to be cleaned up and where still usable(also they were relitivley new from my leveling kit) The other thing i ran into was the track bar...still working on that. I got a new track bar from the wecking yard, but it was the same as mine early 99... Driveline U-joints where the same for both.

The Swap:
I did the swap out at my uncles farm, he has a nice in ground lift set up, but not set up to lift from the frame. So i lifted the truck at the axels took everything loose then as i set the truck onto oversized jack stands and let the axle down and pulled them out with a fork lift.

The rear i thought was more of a challenge, just because of the dual brakes. The rear brake cables are a buger to get loose. I pulled mine at each wheel. I first pulled them loose from the main single cable so they could slide freely. Then i used a freind to pull lightly on the cable and i depressed each tab indiviualy (theres 3 tabs). Then pull the calipers, brake line hold downs (including the breather) and hang them with tie wire or bungy cords or whatever. Pull the driveline. Pull the abs/speedo sensor cable. Pull the u-bolts and drop the axel out.

The front i pulled the steering off the box, pull the caliper (suspend with tie wire or bungy cords), pulled the sway bar off the axle, disconnected the droveline, pulled the track bar, then pulled the u-bolts and droped the axle.
The only hard part about the front it lineing up the track bar and leaf springs. I lined up the springs, then used a com-a-long to shift the axle where i wanted it, wasnt pretty but it kinda worked, also being lifted made it harder.

I did the whole project drive in to drive home in about 8 hours with a helper and a fork lift...

You will need to have your truck aligned after you do this
Some Stuff I Used:
A helper
Re-thread kit...Just in case
Easy-out set...something will brake
RTV black to seal both covers
Most recomend new u-bolts(i reused mine)
1 Ford limited slip additive
4 Qts of Full Sysnthetic 75w-140 Mobil1for the rear
3 Qts of Havoline Sysnthic Blend 75w-90 for front
New Style track bar if your working on a early 99

Hope this helps anyone who may need it!

 

What was your primary goal in doing this swap? Was it just for the gearing change and limited slip? You could have regeared your own axles for another $500 or so, and saved 2 man days of labor. But then you still wouldn't have limited slip.

Well, interesting way to go and I'm glad it went smoothly for you. Thanks for sharing the info.

 

I left out the back story: My old rear axel had so much slop in the pinion bearings that the pinion actualy was eating at the carrier, so filling the diff with metal shavings. Also whenever i went from acclerating to decelerating you could feel the drive train slop like bad u-joints.

So the main point was to fix the rear axel, but i figuered i might as well optimize my gears if i am going to do work on it anyways. So not only did i want to go to either 4.10 or 4.30s but sence i am in there i might as well get limited slip too. Well its cheaper to just buy a used axel with LS then to buy LS, Gears, install kit.

Yes i could have re-gear the truck myself, but i didnt feel comfterable tackling that job on my tow rig, i would do it on my lil off roader(3k gvw) but on a truck that sees 12-14k CGVW i didnt want to leave myself stranded. I have only set gearing up twice.

So yeah i could have done it cheaper by just redoing the 3.73s in the rear, but i dicited if i was going to fix it at all i wanted to fix it right and regear and add limited slip

 

That makes sense.