Forgot about that....... damn cali engines

 

Yep... worst part about it, I have a guy coming to look at the truck later. He wants to buy it, and I want a crew cab or an extended cab, so I put it up for sale yesterday, and then this is what happens.... Damn truck.... I do have a 1997 F250 Crew Cab short bed lined up though...

What do you think a fair price is for my truck with it running well? I put it on Craigslist for 5500 and wonder if its too low.

 

Yes, yes that would. My reading comprehension skills aint so gude, sorry

 

It runs.... turns out the glow plug shunt was burned up.... Stupid california emissions... It started right up once the glow plug shunt was taken off... now i got to see if its going to throw codes without the glow plug shunt on there.

 

Your going to burnup the wiring harness from the
EBPV all the way back to the PCM with your resistor mod.

Bill

 

That sounds pretty scary Bill. What would you recommend for Matt to do?

 

Remove it. But it could be to late.
With the drop in amb temps the pcm has
been trying to control the EBPV.
Blame it all on who ever suggested installing this resistor.

Bill

 

That doesn't sound good at all.

What I meant though is what would you recommend to him to get rid of the CEL?

Although this is probably not going to make a difference because he is trying to sell it and could just plug the EBPV back in. But maybe for others with the Cali trucks.

 

Leave it plugged in.
Then just remove the coil from the valve.

Bill

 

Ok. Now I know if I ever see anybody post this question. Thanks Bill.

 

I use the EBPV everyday on my switch to warm up the truck. it really makes a difference in the morning when the truck is idling with it on, it warms up about three times as fast... I have never used it as an exhaust brake though.

I cant leave it plugged in because of the fact that it is ALWAYS on when the temp is under 30 degrees (alot of the time).

I see these EBPV foolers, Bill what are your thoughts on one of those? http://www.dfuser.com/mfg/powerstrok...rs.php#EBPSES2

I use the thing alot, and cant have the computer control it, and I also cannot STAND a CEL and I will not just pull the bulb... What are the options? And what coil are you talking about taking off? Does that require pulling the turbo?


But how is this going to burn up the wiring, just curious... the EBPV ohmed out at 11 ohms or so. I put in a 10 ohm resistor that ohmed out to be 10.7 when it was done... So that would just mean the resistor is going to get nice and warm when the PCM sends the 12vs (which is all that has happened, the resistor actually is not burnt, the electrical tape I used [very cheap] was melted around the resistor, just means I need a better heat resistant wrap), but the wiring is going to see the same amount of current with the resistor in there or the exhaust back pressure valve. So if the wiring was good for the EBPV why would it not be good for the same amount of current that the resistor is going to put out, (just a hair higher since the OHM values were slightly off). Not trying to argue, but from my BASIC knowledge of physics at this point in school, thats how I understand it.

 

Mine is cable controlled.
Its not auto controlled anymore, but it will never leak oil!

 

Why do you use a manual switch for it? It works automatic with temp.
The EOT and Baro tell it when to work, and the EBPV sensor contols it.
Yes it does help with warmup.

Cannot leave what plugged in?


Cannot see why you have to manually operate the valve.
I hear ya on the cel thing. Iam more anil then you!
The wires plug into the coil on the valve.
Most do away with the system due to oil leaks.

Its not just a ohm size thing. Its also a wattage size thing.

Bill

 

I can't leave the EBPV plugged in otherwise the thing will not have any power when its cold out, which is most the winter.

I like using the EBPV on the switch because of the fact that this truck sees more cold days than it does warm in the winter and it will hinder the way it drives, unless I am WOT all the time.



And I used the highest wattage resistor I could get my hands on, but I will see if I cannot find a higher wattage resistor even than what I got in there... the one i put in is about two inches wide and 1/2" square. its a big resistor. but I forget the value I got.

Thanks for your help Bill.

 

You are manually turning off the system not on.
You have to also remember that no matter what, every time the ignition
is keyed the system runs a selfcheck. This is a valve close/open test.

That is the sensors job. Its see's you are driving with pressure.
Then opens the valve. Granted the oem specs are crap and
cause you to burn fuel to make heat. But thats the area that has to be trimmed/modded.

You just cannot guess on what is needed.
There are other factors involved.

Bill