Putting new tires and shocks on my '94 Ranger 2wd 2.3 in the front makes the problem better. After 5-6 thousand mile the 48-65mph shimmy starts to reacure. Rotated and balanced the rears(now the front) their....aggressive tread Firestones(had to get ride of the two F.S I had in the front. ) (New tread on them, out of round tires.) After rotating the two F.Stones I had left onto the front. The shimmy is back with a vengence. Another site said the problem might be radius arm bushings. Also out of round aluminum rims were mentioned.

I want to try BF goodrich tires on the front. Just afraid the problem will reaccure. Any help would be appreciated.

kightdriver

 

The basic problem isn't the tires. You have front end wear problems and if you don't get it fixed, it'll chew up your tires (as you've seen). The most likely suspects are the tie-rod ends (ball joints), lower ball joints, and radius arm bushings. You don't give us your mileage, but given the year, I'd suspect that all three of the above items need replacement.

I just replaced the tie-rods & lower ball joints in my 2004 and it cured the shimmy I had (80,000 miles). If you're handy with tools (and have the needed tools), you can do the work yourself and save the $80/hr mechanic charge. Parts cost is probably less than $150.

 

I agree!

If Ford would put grease fittings in the tie rods & balljoints they would last alot longer. Just my 2cents

 

Fortunately, all my replacement parts have Zerk fittings. I needed to borrow the ball-joint press from Kragen, but I installed everything myself and probably saved $400 in labor charges. Truck steers like new now.

 

Thank you for the reply Reddog. I should have included the mileage. 193,5xx on my police auction '94 Ranger. This truck; mileage and age wise amazes me. I consider myself handy as apartment dwelling Manhattan'ites go. If anyone's interested I'll give 'you all' a run down on how I came about this 2.3 liter, 3 "lustrum" (15 year) old Titan.

A long weekend in Clark Co. NV(that's Las Vegas), a 20$ bet on the 'Wheel of Fortune" brought about a 1,600$ 'knot'. Leaning towards the seedier Casinos on the outskirts of Fremont street. A friend of a bikini strutt'in waitress talked me into a stop by a auto auction. After witch I found out was an auction where unlucky drunk drivers and the like lose their vehicles. Ridden with guilt I found myself the owner of a '94 Ranger with no keys. It did come with a extra screwdriver to start her with however. Price $775.00

An oil change and a quick trip to Hover Dam gave me the realitization that I better not try to make the east coast with out a good going over.

With the feeling I had a strong motor and tranny I started to fix the suspension problems. There was a burr on the left front spindle between the inner and outer bearings. A chopped up inner bearing. Replaced/repacked both rotors and bearings on the left side. Should have replace both sides. Repacked both sides of course. The left front and back shocks were spent. I put in all four. Brake shoes all around and inspected and changed the differential gear oil and re-keyed the truck. All this work in the parking lot at the auto zone with a 25$ jack.

The tires, although looking new, one of the four Firestone Radial tires was out of round. I replace and balanced the two front. Also I payed to have the tranny and filter changed.

Traveling the 2,7xx or so miles to NY;the truck used a half a quart of oil; I was amazed and happy. She rides smooth at 70mph and over. But around town I need to drive 40 -55mph and the vibration is not bad; but it bothers me.

Our Mayor in NYC is on a crusade against cars. Especialy older cars. You know the ones less than rich people drive? In the three weeks I've been gone all of the auto parts stores in Manhattan below 14th street have gone out of business. And...half of the gasoline stations. This means if your working outside and need to run for a quick part. You have to go to the next county. Which is over a bridge. A big one; called the Brooklyn bridge. Inotherwords if your not under warranty; all the small shops, auto parts stores ect. are gone. Your stuck between a rock and a hard place.

The question is how much money is it worth to put into an old truck like my '94. I've been to Vermont, Western Pa., Virginia and back. Three separate trips. I used the second half of that quart of oil. Fixing the front end myself is impossible however, ball joints and the like, but I want to keep the truck. I like knowing 'what I've got'.

What part should I start off with, ya think. The 'tie-rods'? Get a estimate on all three parts you suggested?

Thanks for listening RedDog....

Stefan...kightdriver

 

Congratulations on your prize catch! It's better than "re-investing" the money back in the casino!

If you're going to get the front end fixed, then there's no point in only doing part of it, as you'll still have the same problem, and doing it piecemeal will cost more because the alignment has to be done each time. By the same reasoning, don't buy the grade 'B' parts offered by some establishments. They're crap made in China and won't last long (personal experience).

Be aware that if the worn parts are weak enough to actually break, then this is obviously dangerous to drive. You wouldn't want to lose steering control while driving down the freeway.

Go on-line to become familiar with the parts cost so that you'll know if your mechanic is overcharging. If you can't do the repair yourself, you can still do a basic check for the wear to verify the honesty of your chosen mechanic:

1) Examine the donut that the rear end of the radius arm fits into. The hole should fit snugly onto the arm. Oversize hole means worn out.

2) Have a friend move the steering wheel back & forth a bit while you grab the tie rod to feel for any clunking (clunking means worn out).

3) Jack up the truck with the wheel (suspension) hanging free about an inch off the ground. Use a crowbar under the tire to lever it upwards while watching the lower ball-joint. There shouldn't be any more than 1/32" play visible. More than 1/32" play means worn out.

I hope someone else will chime in if I've missed anything.

 

I have a nice shimmy , mine is a loose/worn rear pinion, while I have not yet fixed it I have confirmed this by slightly tightening the pinion nut . The play and the wobble went away for a while....

 

I'll need some jack stands or bricks to raise the front of the truck; suspension hanging. I've done Tie Rods, Idler Arms,Pitman and Center Links before. With a "Pickle Fork" I've seen guys do Ball Joints on cars in the street before. I think thats above my old knees these days. I'll do the crow bar test you suggested though; and thank's. Checking out the condition of the Bushings by eye, without prior experience might be difficult.

You said "class B" parts". That means buying only Ford parts. Or are there other aftermarket parts that will serve?

Stefan...kightdriver........

Will let everyone know how my "front" turns out.

 

Oh, of course my pinion wiggled as well!

 

The radius arm bushing check is easy. If you see a gap between the bushing hole and the end of the arm, it's worn. The polyurethane replacement bushings are best (Energy Suspension). Also, see this link:
How to replace Radius Arm Bushings Ford Explorer Ranger Maintenance

Regarding the "B" parts, there are a number of different(quality) brands that are half the price of the Ford dealer. If you see something priced even cheaper, it's probably Chinese. I used Moog for my replacement parts. Try Rockauto for prices.

 

Red Dog...

How-d...It been about a month. It's time to start my front end work.. I had the front end up on stands. There is play in the ball joint. Maybe 1/8 - 1/4 of and inch. Less in the tie rod; but a little. I can hear them clunking when I paralell park. So I'll change both pairs on each side. Are there any other parts that should be changed while the work is being done. Idler arm, Ptiman arm? etc..

The Radius Arm bushings seem ok. No cracks. Rubber looks pretty new(ish) I grabed the shaft going into the bushing. Pulling hard back and forth ..no play. The bushing is snug on the shaft but it dosn't fit like a Condominium. On one side of the shaft there is some space between shaft and bushing. Again no movement by pull'in on her. Is that a "NG" sign.; RDog ,orrr............... Is it wise to change them too while the ties and ball j's. are out, huh??

I want a conplete job. But it's a 775$ 16year old truck. I don't want to spend unnessecary money either.

On your's, ya did everything but the bushing's...I think..... I remember you said; right?

I'll be working on a rent -a- lift with a friend who's done this before. My '94 will need a pro alignment after the work gets done. Correct...?

Thanks for ear RDog...Sefan G. ...kightdriver

 

Yes, you'll need an alignment after the work is done.

My 2004 truck has a different front suspension than yours, so I don't have the Radius Arm donuts. But I don't think grabbing this part and shaking is a good defect detection method. There's to much weight on it. The gap you speak of doesn't sound good.

Another way to check that part: since it is the piece that controls the fore-aft position of the front wheels, creeping forward, then braking should show no movement of the Radius Arm at the donut. This is probably a two person task, one to drive, one to look.

I'm not an expert on front ends, I can only relate my own experience. The ball joints & tie-rods sound worn but I no longer have my old '91 shop manual, so I don't know what the allowable movement at the donut is. You really need a good shop manual to guide you. And hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

Don't focus on the cost of the truck. If you want to keep it, the repairs are the cost of admission, even if you bought it for $5000. If the repair cost or hassle makes you too uncomfortable then maybe you need to find a buyer.

Good luck!

 

To Red Dog/Enthusiasts:

It not that the repair cost make me uncomfortable. I like her. But she is what she is. 16ys old 197,000. I don't want to get into a money pit situation. That is where a '2004 or 5,6 would be more economical to run in the long run.

I don't think it's going to be that way. A guy from the neighborhood is going to help me, I don't know him to well. I think he was a pro...got into some trouble(jail)..no tools and needs side work; and I'll learn... rather than fork'in over 700$ - 1000$(with the bushings) and having it done at the alignment shop.

Oh, I read the material on the bushings. On the rivits, do I need a air chisel? I need a pickle fork and a ball joint tool, as of now.

Will let y'all know how it goes. kightdriver

 

41/2 inch angle grinder and a punch with a big hammer works too.

 

You mean a hand held grinding tool? In the text Red Dog's link sent me to. It said use fasteners to replace the rivets, correct?

Stefan...kightdriver