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I am putting a new brake rotor on because the old one was cracked all the way through in 3 places. I took off the wheel, brake caliper and manual lockout cover. Next i removed the spring and gear under the cover and the pain in the but snap ring...lol. Pulled out the half round lock ring and removed the outer nut. I was told there were 2 nuts a inner and a outer but there was only one. I next slid off the hub and rotor assembly. Took off the rotor and put on the new one ( hammered the studs back in ). Slid the assembly back one and put in the tapered bearing back in and put the nut back on.
Here is my question. What is the torque spec on this nut? I 've heard 50ft-lbs while turning the hub then back off 30-20ft-lbs. Is this correct? I've also heard 50ft-lbs then just back it off a 1/4 turn. Which one is correct? Also are there supposed to be some spacers in there? There weren't any in there at all? Also will the brake rotor pull tight when the lug nuts are put on? I didn't hammer them in quite tight enough.
Your studs should fully seat but don't try it with the wheels installed. Get some washers and an appropriate size nut and set them. If you use a lug nut put the flat side toward the hub. I'll have to review the service manual for your other questions. Somebody will probably chime in before then.
I am putting a new brake rotor on because the old one was cracked all the way through in 3 places. I took off the wheel, brake caliper and manual lockout cover. Next i removed the spring and gear under the cover and the pain in the but snap ring...lol. Pulled out the half round lock ring and removed the outer nut. I was told there were 2 nuts a inner and a outer but there was only one. I next slid off the hub and rotor assembly. Took off the rotor and put on the new one ( hammered the studs back in ). Slid the assembly back one and put in the tapered bearing back in and put the nut back on.
Here is my question. What is the torque spec on this nut? I 've heard 50ft-lbs while turning the hub then back off 30-20ft-lbs. Is this correct? I've also heard 50ft-lbs then just back it off a 1/4 turn. Which one is correct? Also are there supposed to be some spacers in there? There weren't any in there at all? Also will the brake rotor pull tight when the lug nuts are put on? I didn't hammer them in quite tight enough.
Thanks in advance!
It sounds like your truck originally had auto-lock hubs and someone installed manual hubs but neglected to swap out the wheel bearing nuts to the "manual hub" style! Spicer part numbers for the correct hardware are as follows: inner nut with pin:660568 washer between nuts:621028 outer lock nut:621027.Only 1996&1997 Trucks w/3 bolt cap auto hubs require this conversion.... Warn sells their own conversion kit with their own part # (same parts). Service procedure is the same as a 1995 or older axle after conversion. I'm sure Ford could supply OE parts but I can't help you w/part numbers!
Thanks for the replys. Thats exactly what i was thinking someone changed it over and ended up with some extra parts. I've been driving it like that for over a year now. Will it hurt anything if i continue driving like that? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the replys. Thats exactly what i was thinking someone changed it over and ended up with some extra parts. I've been driving it like that for over a year now. Will it hurt anything if i continue driving like that? Thanks in advance!
According to Warn's application info trucks equipped with the 3-bolt cap auto-lock hubs require the conversion kit. (Warn part #32721) You need to ensure that the inner hub body is able to "float" after the large retaining ring is installed. I have always installed the conversion kit when changing a set of 3 bolt auto hubs to manual. I have also found that some 1995-1997 F-250 and F-350 trucks with 3 bolt cap auto hubs do not have a snap ring groove at the end of the axle. The snap ring is not needed since the inner axle shaft rests against the differential cross shaft to keep it from floating inward...