Float level too high = Stalling?
The specs for float level say 7/16". I'm a little too high on the float.
Yesterday I took it a few blocks to refill one of the gas tanks, (hard to check timing when you are out of gas). It starts a little rough, but idles ok. But coming back (uphill a little) it kept bogging down. Also, it would bog down whenever I tried to floor it to pick up quick speed. It eases up to speed alright, but thats it.
Another glaring issue I'm wondering about is the bi-metal choke coil. Theres a fitting for a tube that I'm told should come off the manifold, to warm the coil and open the choke when its running. It has none. (previous owner stripped all the emissions and extras).
1) Does the float level being too high bog down the engine? I know too low is bad, but is too high flooding it?
2) Will the choke coil being disconnected from the heat source make it bog down? The choke butterfly is wide open when I look at it after the engine warms up a couple minutes...
3) Has anyone else had this difficulty, and what solved it?
Thanks
2. Yes, it can. The engine needs to run rich while it's warming up and the choke is responsible for this.
3. Refer to the following article: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116
1) I still went ahead and checked the float after I posted, and it was floating too high. I adjusted it within about 1/64th. I also made sure the e-clip was holding the hinge-pin snugly in the slots in the bowl.
I know about flooding the bowl, and through the vent tubes, because of my own earlier error. I had improperly seated the "e-clip" on the float hinge-pin. It wasn't clicked into the groove on the needle seat, so the hinge-pin was free to ride up with the float, taking the needle up with it. So, Crazed, I think that also shows my fuel lines are doing fine. It flooded pretty nicely out of the vents when I messed that up!
I must also confess to another error. The idle needles in the base of the carb, in the front, were only turned 1 turn out. Like in math class, I got the function wrong because I made an inattentive mistake. I have them turned out 1&1/2 turns now, per advice in these forums. It idles better. I'll still check for vacuum leaks, as Montana suggested, but I think its good. I used to do a lot of motorcycle carbs and they are a hassle, having a carb for each cylinder. I've learned to be meticulous and methodical with carbs. But its always better to check.
2) I got a choke stove flare nut coming in the mail, from a relative. The choke stove fits into the passenger side manifold, which I discovered. I'm going to flare and bend a tube myself, which shouldn't be too hard, having done brake lines.
3) Once again, thanks FMC400. And everybody else. Good advice here.





