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Float level too high = Stalling?

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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #1  
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Float level too high = Stalling?

I have a '77 F150 302 (automatic) that I've just done a carb rebuild and intake manifold replacement on. The carb is a 2150 2bbl.
The specs for float level say 7/16". I'm a little too high on the float.
Yesterday I took it a few blocks to refill one of the gas tanks, (hard to check timing when you are out of gas). It starts a little rough, but idles ok. But coming back (uphill a little) it kept bogging down. Also, it would bog down whenever I tried to floor it to pick up quick speed. It eases up to speed alright, but thats it.

Another glaring issue I'm wondering about is the bi-metal choke coil. Theres a fitting for a tube that I'm told should come off the manifold, to warm the coil and open the choke when its running. It has none. (previous owner stripped all the emissions and extras).

1) Does the float level being too high bog down the engine? I know too low is bad, but is too high flooding it?
2) Will the choke coil being disconnected from the heat source make it bog down? The choke butterfly is wide open when I look at it after the engine warms up a couple minutes...
3) Has anyone else had this difficulty, and what solved it?

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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I'd set the float to spec as you've already noted, you mentioned a recent intake replacement so i'd check for vacuum leaks too just to rule that out.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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1. It's unlikely the float height is related to your problem. Typically if the float is too high, the motor will flood out. You'd see gas spilling out into the venturis, or flowing out of the vents on the air horn. I'd suspect a vacuum leak as MH has suggested.

2. Yes, it can. The engine needs to run rich while it's warming up and the choke is responsible for this.

3. Refer to the following article: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116
 
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 01:24 AM
  #4  
'73-'79CRAZED1!!'s Avatar
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I had a similar problem. I rebuilt my carb., replaced my fuel pump, and cleaned my dual tanks, (didn't hurt, but it didn't fix my problem either!!!) After crawling my butt under the truck for about 2 minutes I realized that it was my cracked rubber fuel lines. They were sucking more air than gas. Note: you can clean your lines out w/compressed air. I have a transparent fuel filter to help me observe what is going on. It was showing the fuel making a surging motion, when it should be nice n' steady and full at all times. There are ways to do a pressure test to see if you have adequate suction. I could be wrong about this but in theory I figure if I rev up the motor and see no surging going on through glass filter then I don't have a problem getting fuel to the carb.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 04:43 PM
  #5  
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Some progress

Thanks, everybody, for the advice.

1) I still went ahead and checked the float after I posted, and it was floating too high. I adjusted it within about 1/64th. I also made sure the e-clip was holding the hinge-pin snugly in the slots in the bowl.

I know about flooding the bowl, and through the vent tubes, because of my own earlier error. I had improperly seated the "e-clip" on the float hinge-pin. It wasn't clicked into the groove on the needle seat, so the hinge-pin was free to ride up with the float, taking the needle up with it. So, Crazed, I think that also shows my fuel lines are doing fine. It flooded pretty nicely out of the vents when I messed that up!

I must also confess to another error. The idle needles in the base of the carb, in the front, were only turned 1 turn out. Like in math class, I got the function wrong because I made an inattentive mistake. I have them turned out 1&1/2 turns now, per advice in these forums. It idles better. I'll still check for vacuum leaks, as Montana suggested, but I think its good. I used to do a lot of motorcycle carbs and they are a hassle, having a carb for each cylinder. I've learned to be meticulous and methodical with carbs. But its always better to check.

2) I got a choke stove flare nut coming in the mail, from a relative. The choke stove fits into the passenger side manifold, which I discovered. I'm going to flare and bend a tube myself, which shouldn't be too hard, having done brake lines.

3) Once again, thanks FMC400. And everybody else. Good advice here.
 
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