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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Stumped...again

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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #1  
Tumblindyce's Avatar
Tumblindyce
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Stumped...again

First, thanks for the advise regarding my brakes. I will bleed them again using the method that Bob suggested...if that doesn't work I'll look at replacing the MC.

Meanwhile, after replacing my clutch, I'm getting the same symptoms that prompted me to replace it in the first place: when I need to feather the clutch, for instance when moving along slowly in stop-and-go traffic, the whole drivetrain shakes and shudders! I don't know if this is what is referred to as chatter, but I would describe it as more than chatter. I had the flywheel resurfaced, torqued it properly to the crank, installed the whole clutch kit which included pilot bearing, throwout bearing, disc, and pressure plate (from LMC). When I was done, I found that I had to adjust the lock nuts on the rod that pushes the fork all the way to the end of the rod to get any pressure on the pedal. I bled the slave cylinder. I also replaced the rear motor mounts and they are tight. I tightened the front motor mounts. The trans bolts going into the bellhousing are tight. The flywheel is dry--no leaky rear main seal causing slippage...what could be causing this chatter?? When the clutch engages, it holds tight...shifting into 2nd or 3rd it grabs just fine...it's just starting from a stop where the truck shudders really badly. I've had lots of experience driving w/a clutch, so it's really not operator error. Am I correct in assuming that the hydraulics only function is to assist in pushing the rod back that actuates the clutch fork, or could the slave and/or MC be part of the problem as well? Any ideas? Thanks...
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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In some older ford cars, clutch chatter could be caused by soft or spongy engine and/or transmission mounts or loose mounts. Since clutch parts are new, might look in those areas
Good luck
Larry
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 04:26 AM
  #3  
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could the clutch plate just be to new and just kinda grabby? how amny miles have you clocked since the rebuild?

If you pull the master cylinder you may want to just upgrade it to a dual master unit. I think I have about $150 total in the swap I did. Just for safety's sake.

bob
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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Check the rear u-joint. It may need to be replaced. Mine was doing that and i couldn't figure out why until my u joint broke, I replaced it and all is Good!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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It could also be bearings in the front of the trans, on the input shaft, or a bad (sloppy)fit at the pilot bushing, or a defective clutch disc and/or pp. But definitely check the easy stuff that's been mentioned first; motor mounts, u joints, attachment bolts, etc.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #6  
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I had a bad clutch chatter poblem in my 55. It was caused by a badly rebuilt clutch plate and shot pressure plate, that I had not aligned properly during installation.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 04:59 PM
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This is just a hereditary with these old Fords just about all of them do once in a while even when they were new. My 52 F-1 does it sometimes and everything is new and the trans has been rebuilt. Bring your RPMs up and slowly let out the clutch as it may have to be "burned in" before it starts working properly. Did you make sure that there was no oil or greasy finger prints on the clutch plate, flywheel, and pressure plate? Any bit of oil or grease will make it chatter. You may have to abuse it a bit to get it to not chatter and get it seated in.
 
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