Ok so I just got back from deer hunting up north. And I discovered some shortfalls while hitting some pretty tough trails:

1. I need lockers

2. I need to upgrade my suspension / shocks

3. I need better tires

So here we go I have an 05 f250 crew cab and it is stock = sucks offroad.

I would like some suggestions for all of the above upgrades or can you please list what combo works for you. I would like to keep the conversation on suspension to coil front ends only please.

Any ideas?

 

Lockers: My personal favorite is air (ARB) or electric (Eaton and other) lockers, where I control when the diff is open or locked. Especially on the front axle where I like an open diff (to minimimize stress on steering and drivetrain) unless I absolutely need the traction. And then usually for only a little while. Unfortunately, they are not cheap. Why is it that all the good stuff costs more?

Tires: What kind of conditions were you struggling with? From your note, I assume all off the paverment. Mud? Ice? Deep powder snow? Sand? Frozen/icy dirt? Loose rocks?

 

if your gonna do lockers see about some better gears if your gonna get bigger tires look at that ratio thing

 

I was in mud and sand and gravel I also was going through sections of trails that I guess you could relate them to whoops a long series of bumps that left the suspension something to desire.

I shouls also mention that I have 55000 miles and I assume that the shocks and tires are original

Rancho shocks and BFG rugged trails

 

Are you looking to lift it any?
If not, just throwing the Rancho POS shocks as far as you can and installing Bilsteins is a no brainer.

For tires, you're in a challenging spot. For best mud performance, M/T tires are phenomenol... The great big lugs and lots of big voids let the tire "spit out" the mud and keep you going. But the trade off is those same lugs and voids are terrible for wet, icy, or snowy roads....
For sand and gravel, a good A/T tire is best.
For asphalt, a ribbed H/T like you probably have is best.

So all things considered, especially if you drive it on the roads during the winter, an A/T tire sounds like the best compromise for your needs. I'm assuming ice/snow performance is a priority for you (based on where you live). Familiarize yourself with the snowflake in mountain symbol, which means the tire has been TESTED and proven above average performance in snow and ice. These are called severe snow or traction tires.

A/T tires run the gamut from pretty mild tread patterns to pretty aggressive with more voids. Bigger voids mean better mud performance, but more noise and poorer wet road/ice performance. Trade offs, trade offs, trade offs.

I suggest taking a hard look at the good old BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO. Not so great in mud, but do everything else remarkably well for how old the design is. Most get snowflake/mountain.

Other tires that have gotten good reviews for the kind of things you're looking for (although most do not earn snowflake/mountain ratings):
- Nitto Terra Grapplers
- Toyo Open Country A/T's (I have run these, adding extra cut siping makes them very good)
- Yokohama Geolander A/T-S

 

Another thought: Are those 18" wheels? If so, consider smaller wheels, the smallest diameter you can fit over your brakes. I think you can still fit 16's on the '05? Others will confirm or correct.

For offroading, you want as much sidewall height as you can get (well, within reason...) Then you can air down more for more traction. Better ride quality is a second benefit! 33" or 35" tall tires on 16" wheels is a great combo for these trucks.

 

Minimum 17" to clear 05-07 brakes

 

I'd get a limited slip instead of a locker, but that's me. I'd opt for the True Trac limited slip.

I'd get some Rancho 9000 shocks, unless you're looking to lift.

I'd get some BFGoodrich All Terrain KO tires if it's snow/ice, and BFGoodrich Mud Terrain KM2 tires if it's mud.

 

A few questions..

Q1 - How often do you go off-road? Is it just during hunting season or year round?

Q2 - What gears do you currently have in the axles of the truck... 3.73 or 4.10 or 4.30?

Q3 - What size tires and wheel are currently on the truck?

Q4 - Did you experience significant tire rubbing during this last off-road trip?

Q5 - What is the budget for upgrades?

 

I noticed in your sigthat you are running 315s any issues with thos it does not mention a lift?

I want as much tire as I can fit I have 17s lift is not important I just want the truck more capable

 

I go offroad at least 35% of the time with this truck.
I believe I have the 3.73 gears
17 in rims 265s tires
I had no rubbing issues I believe their is plenty of room for bigger tires without the lift
I will have to do the mods in stages The first one will probably be tires and or Shocks.

 

I'd level it at least, I'm running 285/75/16's and my tires just rub the inside when fully turned, if you are hitting bumps at all you will be into the inner fenders pretty quick and even the fenders as well.

 

Roller, the 05's have more clearence than your 03. Some have fit 35's on them stock (or typically leveled atleast) w/o rubbing if you stick to 12.5" max and the proper backspacing. That being said I'm surprised you get rubbing with 285's, my 99 F150 has 285/75/16 wo any rubbing even before I cranked up the torsion bars a couple inches, those leaf sprung front ends must be more restriciting than I thought.

 

It just rubs on the inside corner of my mud flap with the outside corners of my tires.

 

A bit of lift. F350 blocks in rear, and "2.5" lift" leaves in front.

Backspacing is a factor when fitting bigger tires. I suspect Rollerstud has a bit too little backspacing (like 1/4") so the tires are sticking out a tiny bit too much. I am aware of several SD's on 285/75-16's with no rubbing at all. I have seen some brands of 305's work on stock suspension with careful fitting of wheels and "centering" of the cab. The cab bolts to the frame, and can be scooched around a little if only rubbing on front or back of opening.
Also, keep in mind that different brands or models in the "same size" will have some variation. Some "35" tall tires are barely over 34", some almost 36". Same with width. It helps to have a good tire shop to work with you.

But bottom line, you should not have problems going up to 285/70-17's with proper wheel. Even that bit more will give you more sidewall.

And personally, I also hate Ranch 9000's. They still use 70's orifice technology with damping that increases with velocity. Modern shocks, like Bilsteins and other gas charged mono-tube shocks, use divergent damping so damping decreases with shock velocity. So you can have nice firm damping at highway speeds for control, but the shock allows the suspension to move when you hit a bump. Just my $.02.
Note, after years of riding high end street and dirt bikes on tracks, I am very finicky about suspension, and know just how well it can work. And how horrible most truck suspensions really are.