driprail and roof rust replacement schematic.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Waterloo IL
Hmm, Interesting. I've been around a lot of these trucks and I've only seen one rusted there. It was on a red & silver truck where the silver wears away so it was down to bare metal.
Is this is bigger problem then what I've personally seen? Where you are saying the rust starts, whats the best way to rust proof that area? Just pull the head liner?
Is this is bigger problem then what I've personally seen? Where you are saying the rust starts, whats the best way to rust proof that area? Just pull the head liner?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,219
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From: Colorado Springs
i have looked at quite a few, but havent actually cut a 67-72 apart in that area. I would assume that they are constructed similarly, but dont quote me. Maybe someone can confirm...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,219
Likes: 190
From: Colorado Springs
Hmm, Interesting. I've been around a lot of these trucks and I've only seen one rusted there. It was on a red & silver truck where the silver wears away so it was down to bare metal.
Is this is bigger problem then what I've personally seen? Where you are saying the rust starts, whats the best way to rust proof that area? Just pull the head liner?
Is this is bigger problem then what I've personally seen? Where you are saying the rust starts, whats the best way to rust proof that area? Just pull the head liner?
Pull the headliner, spray Heavy duty anti rust, por 15 or what ever you can get in there.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Colorado Springs
post some pics, maybe i can advise on your super cab.
Supercabs seem to have a problem with rusting the vertical part of the driprails. I would use a spotweld cutter and remove that section if it is bad as removing the roof for those sections is not necessary. Or if it looks solid enough, clean the area up with a brush attachment on an angle grinder (delicatly), then treat the area with rust converter, getting it in the seams. If the horizontal part is bad, refer to the schematic.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Colorado Springs
Crew Cabs allow outside air in via the rear door hinge pockets, up through the B pillar, and across the roof. Regular cabs are relatively sealed from the outside.
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 927
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From: Lake Point, Utah
Excellent diagram!!! I will be up against this same problem on my crew...only rust on the entire cab is the drivers side drip rail area....Can a regular cab or supercab roof area be used for the repair patch panel??
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
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From: Northern Illinois
It could but like F-800 mentioned the metal is so thin it makes it tough to weld. When I welded the patch panel on the lower part of my rear door I was chasing holes for quite a while.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Up North
If you have rust all of the way around, I don't see what other choice you have. If its just a small area, just replace that spot. Avoid making butt-welds on the 73-up roof skin as it is very difficult even for a professional to do on the thinner metal. (that is why replacing the whole roof is likely faster and easier than fixing your old one)
post some pics, maybe i can advise on your super cab.
Supercabs seem to have a problem with rusting the vertical part of the driprails. I would use a spotweld cutter and remove that section if it is bad as removing the roof for those sections is not necessary. Or if it looks solid enough, clean the area up with a brush attachment on an angle grinder (delicatly), then treat the area with rust converter, getting it in the seams. If the horizontal part is bad, refer to the schematic.
post some pics, maybe i can advise on your super cab.
Supercabs seem to have a problem with rusting the vertical part of the driprails. I would use a spotweld cutter and remove that section if it is bad as removing the roof for those sections is not necessary. Or if it looks solid enough, clean the area up with a brush attachment on an angle grinder (delicatly), then treat the area with rust converter, getting it in the seams. If the horizontal part is bad, refer to the schematic.
As there is no other rust anywhere else on the truck I started thinking that water may be entering through the old dried out cab light seals and running back.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,956
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From: MD
It's possible. My truck (regular cab) was sold new in FL and stayed there for quite a while. I have major rust on and under the drip rails, but the rest is solid. It's baffling.