air in the lines
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 67
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air in the lines
Hey how do I check to see if I'm getting air in the sysem on my 89 7.3 it takes a lot of cranking over to get it started and then it runs rough for 20 or 30 seconds but then its strong and tight?Also is it comon for that year to loose prime I have replaced everything else that could possably relate to bad starting.how do they put a chech valve in?
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 820
From: Mi'kma'ki
iv asked this question before.
it appears the only way you can tell if your getting air intrusion in the lines,is to test and fix all the electrical,making sure the complete glow plugs and system are functioning correctly.once you know this,you know you have an air leak.
the kit is only 25 bucks on ebay,however it comes with standard 0-rings.
you really want to replace the o-rings with Viton's.you can buy them separate.
this is how i did it and saved some green.
your looking for the injector install kit.it comes with the T's/L's/standard O's,and fuel line.
Viton O-rings will provide a MUCH superior seal,so you should really consider them,otherwise you will have leaking problems soon enough all over again(iv read on here,where some claimed they saw leaks again inside 1 week using the o-rings with the kit FYI.)
yes.this is a VERY common problem with all IDI's.
i just replaced my injector lines today in fact.-it was quite easy,though time consuming.
im hoping she starts up easy tomorrow.
a good way to overcome this common problem once and for all,is to remove the mechanical lift pump,and block it off with a BB chevy block off plate.
insert an electric fuel pump just after your fuel selector valve.(if you have dual tanks)
this is what im doing next.
it also saves a minute amount of power as well,as you dont have the pump running off the engine.just a couple amp draw on the alt.
a whole better system imho.now you will push fuel instead of pulling it up from,and here's the best part:
AUTO PRIMED FUEL SYSTEM when you turn the key
(see my garage for parts iv got on order-others like the holy red,i just think its overkill for whats needed)
you may find this thread interesting/helpful from all the tests/upgrades iv done/doing for this cold start problem.you may not want to follow my upgrades on the particular wires i got-i did this because my truck has no miles,and i'l have it for many,many years:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...old-start.html
it appears the only way you can tell if your getting air intrusion in the lines,is to test and fix all the electrical,making sure the complete glow plugs and system are functioning correctly.once you know this,you know you have an air leak.
the kit is only 25 bucks on ebay,however it comes with standard 0-rings.
you really want to replace the o-rings with Viton's.you can buy them separate.
this is how i did it and saved some green.
your looking for the injector install kit.it comes with the T's/L's/standard O's,and fuel line.
Viton O-rings will provide a MUCH superior seal,so you should really consider them,otherwise you will have leaking problems soon enough all over again(iv read on here,where some claimed they saw leaks again inside 1 week using the o-rings with the kit FYI.)
yes.this is a VERY common problem with all IDI's.
i just replaced my injector lines today in fact.-it was quite easy,though time consuming.
im hoping she starts up easy tomorrow.
a good way to overcome this common problem once and for all,is to remove the mechanical lift pump,and block it off with a BB chevy block off plate.
insert an electric fuel pump just after your fuel selector valve.(if you have dual tanks)
this is what im doing next.
it also saves a minute amount of power as well,as you dont have the pump running off the engine.just a couple amp draw on the alt.
a whole better system imho.now you will push fuel instead of pulling it up from,and here's the best part:
AUTO PRIMED FUEL SYSTEM when you turn the key
(see my garage for parts iv got on order-others like the holy red,i just think its overkill for whats needed)
you may find this thread interesting/helpful from all the tests/upgrades iv done/doing for this cold start problem.you may not want to follow my upgrades on the particular wires i got-i did this because my truck has no miles,and i'l have it for many,many years:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...old-start.html
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
air in lines
thanks actually I did the same thing today on mine I put the injectore line kit in today as well as new injectores 7 of them tested bad so I hope I might have the air leak fixed and injectores fixed maybe it will start good now.
Thanks
Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
Why take off the Mechanical pump? All you have to do is cut about 6"
of line out of the line between the MP & filter and install an EP8012s
($41.99 at O'Reillys) electric fuel pump. That way you won't need to run the EP except to prime to eliminate air intrusion problems with the side benefit of priming your system without risking your starter. You can turn it on and let it run for 30 minutes or so and it will push fuel past the clearances in the IP to purge all of the air out of the system. It works great to start an engine any time you run out of fuel. You also have a pump ready to take over when the MP does quit. The MP will push fuel through the EP during normal operation. You can bypass the MP and run off the EP in an emergency. As far as saving energy, you are wasting energy with an EP because it draws current continually. The MP only moves as much fuel as you need. No wasted energy! No need to over kill.
<!-- / message -->
of line out of the line between the MP & filter and install an EP8012s
($41.99 at O'Reillys) electric fuel pump. That way you won't need to run the EP except to prime to eliminate air intrusion problems with the side benefit of priming your system without risking your starter. You can turn it on and let it run for 30 minutes or so and it will push fuel past the clearances in the IP to purge all of the air out of the system. It works great to start an engine any time you run out of fuel. You also have a pump ready to take over when the MP does quit. The MP will push fuel through the EP during normal operation. You can bypass the MP and run off the EP in an emergency. As far as saving energy, you are wasting energy with an EP because it draws current continually. The MP only moves as much fuel as you need. No wasted energy! No need to over kill.
<!-- / message -->
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 820
From: Mi'kma'ki
Why take off the Mechanical pump? All you have to do is cut about 6"
of line out of the line between the MP & filter and install an EP8012s
($41.99 at O'Reillys) electric fuel pump. That way you won't need to run the EP except to prime to eliminate air intrusion problems with the side benefit of priming your system without risking your starter. You can turn it on and let it run for 30 minutes or so and it will push fuel past the clearances in the IP to purge all of the air out of the system. It works great to start an engine any time you run out of fuel. You also have a pump ready to take over when the MP does quit. The MP will push fuel through the EP during normal operation. You can bypass the MP and run off the EP in an emergency. As far as saving energy, you are wasting energy with an EP because it draws current continually. The MP only moves as much fuel as you need. No wasted energy! No need to over kill.
<!-- / message -->
of line out of the line between the MP & filter and install an EP8012s
($41.99 at O'Reillys) electric fuel pump. That way you won't need to run the EP except to prime to eliminate air intrusion problems with the side benefit of priming your system without risking your starter. You can turn it on and let it run for 30 minutes or so and it will push fuel past the clearances in the IP to purge all of the air out of the system. It works great to start an engine any time you run out of fuel. You also have a pump ready to take over when the MP does quit. The MP will push fuel through the EP during normal operation. You can bypass the MP and run off the EP in an emergency. As far as saving energy, you are wasting energy with an EP because it draws current continually. The MP only moves as much fuel as you need. No wasted energy! No need to over kill.
<!-- / message -->
electric pumps dont pull as good as they push,so its best to have located down by the tanks.(though they do make more expensive pumps used for pulling fuel)
getting rid of the stock lift pump reduces drag on the motor used to spin the pump,freeing hp,and increasing mpg.(tho this may be small,combined with other small mods,they all add up over the duration of ownership for mpg increases/small hp,here and there all combined adds up instantly.)
once hooked up,and bypassed.the electric conversion is a good upgrade.the electric pumps generally only draw about 2 amps,so the increase on the alt is quite minimal.
