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2000 F-350 4x4 DRW. Trying to replace ball joints. manual hubs. Can't get the outer hub off. Got the spring clip out, but thats as far as I got. Any tricks or secrets to getting it off, besides braking the aluminum? Tried everything.
I didn't try the "lightly hitting with a plastic hammer" I used a block of wood and a large sledge hammer. Did I mention that I'm in Buffalo, NY and that the truck has seen several winters of salt?
I live in iowa so i know what your talking about. your just going to have to keep at it. it should kind of wiggle back and forth and come out. with carosion and the oring it might come out hard.
Ratpack, if you have a dead blow rubber mallet it works best. You already have the retaining clip out. Now take the dead blow rubber mallet and strike the hub with the mallet such that the mallet glances on the cylindrical hub and away from the wheel. I cupped the underside of the hub with one hand and pulled at the same time. Jack that wheel up and spin it while doing so. It'll come.
Spin Tap, spin tap, spin tap. Spin whoop the crap out of it etc. It will come lose. Some times tapping on both sides will help it break lose also. It can be a pain in the ars.
all good suggestions guys, and I've tried all of them. Dealer said sometimes they have to split the hub in 2, to get it off. $700 for a new one. I was hoping someone had a different trick up their sleeve.
You have used PB Blaster and done all of the spinning,tapping and whooping. Man it must be rusted on tight. But keep at it PB Blast Spin Tap again, again. Sorry I cant help more.
pb blast it and just wiggle it back and forth. Had a really hard time getting mine out to change ball joints recently but just kept with it and they came out eventually.
Damn that sounds pretty stuck. Can you use heat in that area? What about taking off your wheel and warming the sleeve that the hub is pushed into with a MAPP gas torch a little bit (just to warm it up, not really hot) and hitting it with PB Blaster? Maybe that would draw the PB Blaster in quicker. Then go back to the hammer method.
Just went through this with the exact year and model of truck. I simply cut the ball joints with a sawzall and took the entire assembly to a machine shop for disassembly. While at it, I had them glassbead the knuckles, install the new ball joints, cut and glass bead the rotors and the rotor extensions. Everything came back clean as a whistle. Applied a coat of exterior enamel to prevent further corrosion and reassembled with copious amount of antiseize. I also installed new bearing hubs, axle seals, steering linkage, brake calipers and brackets. Spent approximatley $2500.00 on parts and machine work. The bearing hubs were $620.00 for 2. Not sure if the $700.00 number that you quoted was for 1 or 2. They list for $420.00 a piece.
Back to your original question. No, there is no trick or easy way. Simply brute force is the answer. If the hammer you have doesn't work get a bigger hammer.
All parts except the ball joints were OEM and purchased at the local ford dealer. I will not support inferior parts sold for a discount with questionable service life.
This might be a dumb idea, but is it possible to unbolt the hub (4 bolts from the back side) from the knuckle and remove it WITH the axle shaft? Without taking the outer hub off first?
Well, I finally got it apart tonight. Got it hot and ended up breaking it in pieces. Corroded pretty good. Hub didn't come off without a bit of pursuation, either. Now I have to get new lock out hub. At least it will be nice when I'm done.