Hi All,
Please could you help me with identifying where and exactly when my Ford truck was built?

There is just so much on the web, and I cant find conclusive information.
I own a 1946 Ford pickup. I bought it a couple months ago. I live in South Africa, a common-wealth country, so it's a right-hand drive.

I understand that the Fords from 1942 - 1946 were essentially the same in body and look, the difference being the 1/2 ton pickup and 1 1/2 pickup?
Mine is the bigger truck, the 1 1/2 pickup and has a gross weight of 1746 kilograms - which is 3841.2 pounds.

The Licensing papers I got with the truck say that the VIN number is 3L44203E. The papers also say that the engine number is 3644203F.
However, on the cylinder head, it has a couple of stamped numbers, one of them being C81A - 6050A. From my research, I understand this to
mean that the engine, or cylinder heads at least, were built in Canada in 1938 and are for an 85HP engine. I am not sure what the 6050A means?
I also understand that the heads may belong to a different engine, not the one they are currently on?

Below that, else where on the same cylinder head there is a number 1H26. Again, I dont know what this refers to?
Secondly, on the other side of the engine, on the cylinder head too, there is the stamped number C11A-6520-C2 .....I'm not sure what this means.

Below that, there is another number, 22 1224, which also means something I'm sure.

To make it all more confusing, there is a number that the previous owner wrote above the firewall, 15486372, if this is a VIN, then it contradicts the one
that the papers have, the 3L44203E number. So I'm also not sure what the 15486372 refers to!!

Please could you be so kind as to help me decode all this, I would appreciate it greatly to where and when exactly my truck and engine were made!

Regards,
Doron

 

I cant be of much help. Gary needs to pop in on this. The truck style was from 42-47, changing in '48. Never heard of a 1.5 ton pickup but with the weight you gave it sounds legit. ONE BIG PICKUP! The 6050A sounds like the number Ford gave to simply indicate cylinder head. I would have to check but think it also is present on my '58 OHV heads.

 

Hi 46yBlock,

Thank you very much for the reply, you guys in the States have been very helpful in supplying me with information on my truck.

I think there was a typo in my earlier post, I meant to say 1 ton pickup!

From my internet research, I learnt the other night that the "C81A - 6050A" number definitely is the cylinder head part number, built in Canada. The other number, the "C11A-6520-C2" one, seems to be the intake manifold number.

The problem with the VIN numbers is due to truck that were shipped to South Africa were given different VIN and chassis numbers, to coomply with how vehicles were registered here back then.

Someone once told me that the original VIN number has a type of code in it, where the sequence of numbers tell the date the truck was built, what unit number it was that year e.g. the 5000th truck or car to come off the line, and also possibly the area it was built in. I dont know whether this is true or not?

I welcome any help and information. Thanks again.

Doron

 

A side note quickly.

I believe 1.5 ton pickups were used from as early as 1936, maybe even earlier? I remember seeing some photos on the wall of the old-timer I bought my truck from of some Ford 1.5's he used to own.

Something else I learned today, Ford trucks and cars were shipped here to South Africa in parts, and assembled as right-hand drives for our roads. In doing that, the parts were assigned a different numbering system to the one used in the States!

Cheers,

Doron

 

Doron

Your Ford was most likely built in Canada, as from what I have heard over the years.
One of the common items to look for is the frame at X section at front where the exhaust pipe goes through. On the Canadian frames there will be 2 holes for the exhaust pipe one on the right , & one on the left. Reason for this is because they were built for Commwealth Countrys.
Now I'm not saying that the U.S. doesen't have these same applications.
Next starting in Canada in 1946 there was a plate riveted to the Firewall under the hood on the left side, which gave the V.I.N. of the vehicle.
If your truck has the original transmission in it there is also a matching number stamped on it. This is located on the top of the Transmission at front centre, just behind where it bolts up to the engine.
The 6050 you were refering to on the heads is the designation number for referal to the heads, there was 6050, & 6049 one being right the other left, when the engine was assembled.
When you have the Transmission cover the floor plate off, right on the block there is a number probably has a 59 in it. This is located ahead of where the Transmission bolts to the Engine and to the right.
Other numbers are on the Frame on the Top Rail left side just ahead of where if this truck were left hand drive the steering box would be bolted to.
Hope this little bit of info will help you for awhile.

 

Doron, you likely are correct about the way South African trucks were built. I recall reading here that a very similar thing was done in Brazil as well. Using the parts that you have, it you were in the States you could say that it was likely a '42 or a war truck. But it sounds like the C81A engine could have been shipped later to other countries after they started to use the 59A here.

As 5 star said look for a tag on the firewall. In the States these trucks had a Rating plate on the inside of the glovebox door. Since the frame numbers were stamped locally, I would check both frame rails in front of the firewall, all the way forward, just because it was stamped on the left side in the States doesn't mean that's where they stamped it there. Probably the most likely place for the engine number is where 5 star said, on the top of the trans bell just above the little clutch inspection plate, that was the standard Ford spot. Some States had further regs that required the number to actually be stamped on the engine so some engine blocks were stamped as well, but the location varied.

Your gross weight numbers confuse me, the 1/2 ton was rated 4700 lbs in the States, 3700 lb curb weight of the truck plus 1000 lb payload. It is possible that locally the rating was only on payload? That would make sense since your rating was just shy of 1 ton.

 

Hi 5 Star,

Thank you very much for your reply. My truck is currently at the shop being re-wired, and having a few more things done to it. I'm going through there this afternoon to check it out and will have a look at the frame underneath to see how the exhaust is fitted, as you mentioned. Will let you know.
Unfortunately there are no riveted plates under the hood, I have checked for that. But what I can do is check for rivet marks, and if finding any in the location you mentioned, does this signify for sure that it was Canadian built? Did the State-built Fords also have the plate riveted in the same spot...?

I will check the bell housing as soon as I get a chance.

Thank you,

Doron

 

Hi Soule46,

Thanks for the reply and all the information too. From an appreciation and nostalgic point of view, I'd like to think of my truck as a '42 or War truck too!
It is possible, as you say, that the C81A engine was shipped here for general use in a car or truck, and landed up in mine somewhere back in the late 40's. The guy I bought it from purchased the truck back in 1947. I read online somewhere recently that flatheads were even used to power backup emergency generators, in case of power failures. Who is to say that one of those couldn't have been taken by some enterprising individual and placed in their car or pickup..? :-)

I will take a look inside the glove-box for the detials you are describing and let you know. As far as the weight of the truck goes, the paperwork says gross weight of the truck is 1746 kilograms with no load on the back, approximately 3842 pounds, if 1kg = 2.2lbs.
I know my truck is a 1ton pickup, but here in South Africa we have something called GVM which is Gross Vehicle Mass. The GVM of my truck is 2270kg by law, which means that it only allowed to carry 524kg (1153lbs) by law. They calculate it by subtracting the vehicle weight (1746kg) from the GVM (2270kg). If a traffic cop pulls me over and I'm carrying more than that, I could have problems:-)
The confusing thing is, surely my 1ton truck can carry more than 524kg on the back? I am taking it to get a roadworthy certificate once the repairs are completed. At the testing station they will put the truck on a weigh-bridge and confirm it's weight for me.

I'll keep you updated once I know, and I'll defintiely put an album up here once I am driving it again.

Thanks for all the help!

Doron

 

That weight calculation makes sense. Like I said in the states they used the 3700 curb weight of the truck. I don't think the 1 ton express truck was significantly different in weight, but I don't have that figure available. I wouldn't be concerned about the GVM on the paperwork, it is quite possible that local regulations dictated this number and that Fords vehicle rating was ignored.

Unfortunately, the local numbers you have for engine and frame numbers on the paperwork are quite different that what they have in the states, and any meaning to the numbers would be local to you. 3L44203E and 3644203FBased on what was common here I would guess that 44203 is the serial number of the engine. The E/F doesn't have any correlation to US numbers and the 3L/36 meaning would be dependent upon if it was pre war or post war. But that's all assuming the numbers have any relation to US numbers at all.

Your best bet would be to find a local antique Ford club, they would have much more experience with your numbers :-)

 

Doron

Another item to look for on your Truck if its a 1 ton or 3/4 Ton, and that is it should have had 17 inch Wheels.
Also most had a 4 speed Transmission, although some 1/2 Tons had them as well as an option. The Speedometer if correct on your Truck should have graduations, as when to shift gears, they were located on the face of the Speedometer.
The wheel base should be 122 inches, as the 1/2 Ton was 114 inches. Also the Gross Vehicle weight of your Truck is 6600 Lbs., and if its a Pickup it will have an 8 Foot Box.
Just a few more details on your Truck.

 

Hi Soule46,

Sorry for the late reply, this is the first time I've logged on in ages. We do have an antique club here and when the next rally comes up I will be going along.
I am sure they got the GVM wrong back in the day, because I have an even smaller and newer pickup (Opel Corsa) that has a higher GVM than my Ford!!

Thanks for all your help.

 

Hi 5Star

That is correct, my truck has 17" wheels, something that is not easy to find or replace in this country!
It is a 4 speed transmission, and there are graduations on the speedometer as you say, I'm glad that it's still so original. It is without doubt a 1 tonner.

I guess I was hoping to find out some detail on where it may have been built in the states before it was shipped here. Though I have learnt a lot more about it in the process.

Thanks for all the info!

 

Doron

Just a small bit of advice here on the 17 inch wheels, when changing a Tire. These wheels have a lock ring on them all the way around the wheel, and you should either have them in a cage when inflating the Tire, or have 2 chins wraped around the wheel.

If that ring is not on there right, and what I am about to say take it serious it has happened to many times and those wheels are old probably 63 years or better, and metal fatigue has probably set in by now.

Anyway back to the rings they have been known to blow off and could literally, take your head, or leg off. If this scares you it was meant to do so, I just wanted to express the danger that lurks with these wheels. This has happened to many guys changing these type of wheels, so heed the advice this is no prank just wanted to warn you.

 

Doron

Here is an article on the sp;it rim dangers, I just copied and pasted it here for you to read. I was an over the Road Trucker myself, and have known of a few this has happened to.
===================================

Unless you are experienced in mounting and demounting split rim tires, I would suggest you find a professional shop to take your tires to. Doing it improperly or without ALL the correct equipment can result in your DEATH!

I'm not exaggerating.

If you live near a Coker Tire store or similar seller/installer of vintage tires, take it to them. If not, find shop that will work with split rims. You'll probably have to go to a shop that works on over-the-road trucks to find someone with the skill and equipment required to deal with split rims.

Let me just say this: The fact that you're asking for instructions and advice on how to deal with split rims, tells me that you have no business attempting this yourself. I'm not trying to offend you or put you down, I'm just telling it like it is. Split rims have killed and maimed many a professional mechanic in their day and are not the purview of the average do-it-yourselfer.

The danger is due to the fact that a tire with a pressure of 30psi, has about 6 tons of force trying to tear the wheel apart. If the split rim is unseated, it will become a dangerous projectile.

Multi-piece wheels or rims have frequently resulted in serious injury or death to tire mounters employed in service stations and tire stores which explains why they are often referred to as “widow makers.” Multi-piece rims are available in numerous configurations or designs, but all are potentially life threatening.

Here is a good website explaining the procedure. Take note of the special safety equipment required, e.g. metal cages, remote inflation devices, etc.
OSH Answers: Servicing Split Rim Wheels

 

Hi 5 Star,

Thanks for the tips on the tires, they are rather old.

I will have to investigate as to where I can get new ones and where I can get the rims properly assessed to see what condition they are in.

I will definitely only take it to a place that is equiped to perform changes on split rims.

Thanks again for all the help.

Doron