Hedman Header WARNING
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Hedman Header WARNING
It seems like a lot of guys go for the Hedman headers because they're cheap and hey, Headers are Headers, right? Wrong.
If you're doing a major rebuild like I was, you will probably buy the header months in advance of actual use, so any chance of return/warranty might be void.
If I had it to do over again, I would go with a more expensive set of headers. With the Hedman header, I had to take a slight rounded notch out of my frame in one place. Then I had to heat one of the tubes and physically move it slightly. Last but not least, in another place I had to make an indentation just above one of the collectors so it wouldn't rattle on my frame! Also, with the headers, you need to either safety wire the bolts, or buy Stage 8 locking bolts for $50 so you're not retightening and replacing blown out exhaust gaskets every couple of weeks. During the rebuild I installed studs in the head, and used crimp nuts, but they did not stay tight.
Another thing: If you're going to use the Hedman headers, buy a new starter before installing the headers, because once installed, if the starter goes south, you either have to disconnect the radiator hoses and jack up the engine, or remove intake and exhaust to change the starter!!! When I upgrade my exhaust, I am going to seriously consider putting on the EFI manifolds!!
<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view¤t=P1010174.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010174.jpg" border="0" alt="last details getting sorted out"></a>
Above: They look nice, but fit is a different matter. I have a '75 F-250. Of course your experience with them may be entirely different.
If you're doing a major rebuild like I was, you will probably buy the header months in advance of actual use, so any chance of return/warranty might be void.
If I had it to do over again, I would go with a more expensive set of headers. With the Hedman header, I had to take a slight rounded notch out of my frame in one place. Then I had to heat one of the tubes and physically move it slightly. Last but not least, in another place I had to make an indentation just above one of the collectors so it wouldn't rattle on my frame! Also, with the headers, you need to either safety wire the bolts, or buy Stage 8 locking bolts for $50 so you're not retightening and replacing blown out exhaust gaskets every couple of weeks. During the rebuild I installed studs in the head, and used crimp nuts, but they did not stay tight.
Another thing: If you're going to use the Hedman headers, buy a new starter before installing the headers, because once installed, if the starter goes south, you either have to disconnect the radiator hoses and jack up the engine, or remove intake and exhaust to change the starter!!! When I upgrade my exhaust, I am going to seriously consider putting on the EFI manifolds!!
<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view¤t=P1010174.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010174.jpg" border="0" alt="last details getting sorted out"></a>
Above: They look nice, but fit is a different matter. I have a '75 F-250. Of course your experience with them may be entirely different.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 177
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hedmans. when you buy them it also says for 2wd models. so if your truck is a 4wd obviously they will be a pain. I see what your saying tho. I bought hooker headers for my 300. said they were 4wd models and its the same as yours. except i didnt have to notch the frame or modify anything as bad as you did. But still both are a junk design. i would highly recommend nobody buy hookers or hedman for the simple fact of fitment and it surrounds the starter. Also the wires to the starter are surrounded in constant heat, and over time im sure it will damage the wire from the heat, and probably cause a poor cranking due to high resistance in the wire from years of heat damage. JUNK headers. go with efi's. clifford also makes shortys too. but pricey.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,545
Likes: 4
From: Coal Region
*shrug* never had a problem with my hedmen headers. bolts are still tight after 3 or 4 years, no fitment issues besides notching the alt bracket. albiet i have a 93, there is no physical difference with a 2wd or 4wd frame on the 80-96s.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: raymond alberta
hows the starter clearance on your 93....i was looking at these for my 95 I6...did they make any power gains?
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2009
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: raymond alberta
being shorties they should work it just depend on the rest of your exhaust matching up...long tubes probably will not because the frames are different...but shorties might
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have a 96 and baught the hedman headers.....fuel injected that is as welland 4x4....I tore the whole left side of my truck apart just getting everything off. I knew going into it that I would need to notch the alt bracet..sawzall does the trick but the other concern I had was that the headers wouldnt even fit around the intake without some modifiation. and the other thing that bafled me was there were only two bolts...how the hell would that keep them tight enough???? and the last problem was with the EGR valve which is a recirculation tube from exhaust manifold number two back into the intake that is absolutely necessary if you want this thing to run good... there was no hook up and I dont know where to bolt that thing in. too much trouble for to little of a gain. the project got to be way over my head. If you plan on trying to fabricate these headers to your efi 90 and above f150 its better do throw up the extra dow get the headers that are gonna fit be reliable have the necessary hook ups (02 sensors/smog sensor, and EGR valve) and that will bolt on.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,545
Likes: 4
From: Coal Region
no fitment issues here with the intake. i dont know where u seen only two bolts holding the headers to the head...i remember all but one from the exhaust manifolds were re-used and with the intake bolts there was way more than two.
o2 sensor, weld a bung in the y pipe, EGR u gotta make ur own. talk of using braided stainless steel BBQ gas hose to resist heat and allow good movement.
o2 sensor, weld a bung in the y pipe, EGR u gotta make ur own. talk of using braided stainless steel BBQ gas hose to resist heat and allow good movement.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Maricopa
when I saw the hedman headers last online, they had two sets of three instead of one set of 6, if that makes sense. hmm, let me elaborate, all 6 pipes are welded to one plate, but then 3 go to one pipe and 3 go to another. I'll try to find a picture.
