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Yeah, actually i have an extended warranty to cover till 84K miles and I think the 5yr/100K mile warranty is over now, the truck warranty started August 2004. So, I have another year and 14K miles from my extended bumper to bumper. I was hoping to get the studs put in under warranty repair. So, an even better reason to throw a tuner on it and drive it like its stolen. The only thing i hated is that when it started to do it a few months ago, the delaership never pulled any codes. And then all of a sudden it just went away, and now it is coming back again.
I know alot of dealers now arent installing studs under warranty theres a big problem going on lately, and Ford has been cracking down, a buddy of mine up north where he had his work down they came down and found alot of things being done under warranty those techs got fired. Just double check your dealer about that.
Is there a possability it is the STC fitting off the high pressure oil pump? Or is the motor in a 05 Excursion a little differant than the motor in an 05 F250?
Is there a possability it is the STC fitting off the high pressure oil pump? Or is the motor in a 05 Excursion a little differant than the motor in an 05 F250?
Early '05 Excursions got late '04 carryover motors, late '05 Excursions got the '05 engines. It just depends on your build date...
Is there a possability it is the STC fitting off the high pressure oil pump? Or is the motor in a 05 Excursion a little differant than the motor in an 05 F250?
I would say it's a good possibility. The reason I would check the egr 1st is because it's easy and cheap to do. After that I would get it to the dealer while under warranty. You don't want to pay for stc or hpop out of your own pocket if you don't have to. Forget the tuner till the root cause is found or you will just muddy the waters and give reasonable cause to get your warranty voided.
Yeah, I will definetely check with the dealer about the studs. That has me worried a little there. I believe the motor has a production date stamp of August 2004. I know it is 2004 for sure, I just cant remember which month. And what is this STC fitting? And to verify the EGR, do I just disconnect it and see how it runs I know it will throw a code but thoughts?
Ok, so while i was doing some research, i decided to remove the icp wire harness from the icp on the valve cover, and prior to me doing this i was having the start issue again. Anyway, i removed it, it was clean as new almost, placed it back on to the connector and pushed it on to the ICP fitting all the way and tried starting it and the truck started up fine with no problems. I also disconnected the EGR to see what else might have come to see and the truck started and it also started up with no hesistation, full throttle response. Now keep in mind just five miunutes earlier, the damn truck didnt want to start or wouls start with a real low idle and die out. Would it be safe to say the problem has been resolved? The truck was up to operating temp and it started fine. What do you think?
Yeah, I will definetely check with the dealer about the studs. That has me worried a little there. I believe the motor has a production date stamp of August 2004. I know it is 2004 for sure, I just cant remember which month. And what is this STC fitting? And to verify the EGR, do I just disconnect it and see how it runs I know it will throw a code but thoughts?
You have a late '04 engine then, which is a much better engine that the '03 and early '04 engines, lots of hardware updates that reduced common failures.
The STC or Snap to Connect fitting is part of the HPOP on the newer '05 to '07 6.0s. (Your late '04 motor doesn't have the STC) The 05-07 engines use a a newer V-4 style pump that is more efficient and less prone to failure.
As for the EGR, your truck may or may not throw a code. A buddy of mine had an '05 F250, we disconnected his EGR valve and didn't get any codes. His dad had an '07 and as soon as we started the truck it threw a code. So it varies...
Ok, so while i was doing some research, i decided to remove the icp wire harness from the icp on the valve cover, and prior to me doing this i was having the start issue again. Anyway, i removed it, it was clean as new almost, placed it back on to the connector and pushed it on to the ICP fitting all the way and tried starting it and the truck started up fine with no problems. I also disconnected the EGR to see what else might have come to see and the truck started and it also started up with no hesistation, full throttle response. Now keep in mind just five miunutes earlier, the damn truck didnt want to start or wouls start with a real low idle and die out. Would it be safe to say the problem has been resolved? The truck was up to operating temp and it started fine. What do you think?
The plug was probably loose not allowing for a good connection. All you can do is drive the truck and you'll find out.
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