Timing Qs on new EFI Conversion
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 3
Timing Qs on new EFI Conversion
I am finishing my EFI conversion and am having a little issue with the timing and running. The truck is not streetable yet.
Specs - .030 overbore, E303 cam, stock H.O. intake and MAF, L1C EEC and a MAF, converted Crown Vic. harness.
Problem - With the SPOUT disconnected I can get the engine started and set the timing (currently 10 BTDC) so that the engine runs. When I connect the SPOUT the engine will continue to run for some time and seemingly well but when I shut it off it is very hard to restart. I mean really hard, engine does not want to turn over. I can sometimes get it to crank but most times I have to disconnect the SPOUT to restart.
This is my first EFI conversion (and this little set back has not discouraged me from my next) I have followed the article posted on this site along with diagrams and articles posted on forfuelinjection.com. One thing that I do need to mention is I may only be supplying 8-9vdc to the TFI on pin 3 which is the 12v Start Only.
FYI: I am posting in several other forums to get more coverage so don't be surprised if you see this elsewhere!
Thanks,
Specs - .030 overbore, E303 cam, stock H.O. intake and MAF, L1C EEC and a MAF, converted Crown Vic. harness.
Problem - With the SPOUT disconnected I can get the engine started and set the timing (currently 10 BTDC) so that the engine runs. When I connect the SPOUT the engine will continue to run for some time and seemingly well but when I shut it off it is very hard to restart. I mean really hard, engine does not want to turn over. I can sometimes get it to crank but most times I have to disconnect the SPOUT to restart.
This is my first EFI conversion (and this little set back has not discouraged me from my next) I have followed the article posted on this site along with diagrams and articles posted on forfuelinjection.com. One thing that I do need to mention is I may only be supplying 8-9vdc to the TFI on pin 3 which is the 12v Start Only.
FYI: I am posting in several other forums to get more coverage so don't be surprised if you see this elsewhere!
Thanks,
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Sounds like your timing may not be what you think it is. Can you verify that the timing pointer is at 0 on the crank balancer when #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke? If it isn't then the balancer outer ring has slipped and it should be replaced.
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Senior User
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I will check that.
another thought that I had was from a Chevy build I did years ago. My original balancer had timing marks at the twelve o'clock position but the el'cheapo dress up kit was at the two o'clock position. Obviously, making that timing way off. Is there any differences in ford timing covers and balancers?
Thanks,
another thought that I had was from a Chevy build I did years ago. My original balancer had timing marks at the twelve o'clock position but the el'cheapo dress up kit was at the two o'clock position. Obviously, making that timing way off. Is there any differences in ford timing covers and balancers?
Thanks,
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 3
The engine was a 5.0L EFI. I had the timing cover but had to track down a balancer, and timing tab. I did not get them off of the same engine.
It looks like I have several things to check tonight. Are there any obvious signs of a slipped balancer?
I greatly appreciate the time you are taking to answer my questions!
It looks like I have several things to check tonight. Are there any obvious signs of a slipped balancer?
I greatly appreciate the time you are taking to answer my questions!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Not really unless it appears to wobble when the engine is running. Bring #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and use a small piece of wire in the spark plug hole to verify it is at TDC. Then if the timing marks don't line up you have the wrong pointer or banancer on there or the balancer ring is slipping.. they tend to do that as the rubber isolator ring begins to deteriorate with age.
If the marks are not aligned you can fab a temporary pointer out of a piece of clothes hanger wire for example so that the ignition timing can be accurately set and the motor operational while you track down replacement parts. That's assuming the balancer ring isn't totally shot and the thing isn't moving around all over the place the whole time the engine is running.
If the marks are not aligned you can fab a temporary pointer out of a piece of clothes hanger wire for example so that the ignition timing can be accurately set and the motor operational while you track down replacement parts. That's assuming the balancer ring isn't totally shot and the thing isn't moving around all over the place the whole time the engine is running.
