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Manual Locking Hubs

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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 12:06 PM
  #1  
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Manual Locking Hubs

I have a manual locking hubs... and today we got 6-8 inches... my transfer case works just fine... I know that for a fact... I went underneath and tried rotating the driveshaft with the hubs unlocked and the front driveshaft is where it wont move freely... It also goes into low, since it wont go more than about 35 MPH....

So how would I go about rebuilding my hubs? Want to do that tonight, since we are supposed to get even more snow (like another 12 inches)
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Not quite clear on the problem (long day) Do you have the T-case in 4hi or low that the drive shaft won't spin? Or are your hubs sticking engaged?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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If your t-case is in 4HI or 4LO the front shaft won't spin by hand. Only if it's in Neutral. Unless you have the front end jacked up and then it'll take a lot of force to spin the driveshaft because of the weight of the tires.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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Well here is what they look like when pulled out...




Thats what my hubs look like when I pulled it apart... any thing that sticks out?


The hubs can be in either free or in locked position, and i can spin the drive shaft freely if it is in 2wd, and if the transfer case is in the neutral position.

But if the transfer case is in 4x4 high or low I cannot spin it, if the hubs are locked or not....

Thus making me think the hubs are not locking, and staying free.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Look at the hub piece that is in your hand there and turn the "****" from free to lock. You should notice that the plastic piece in the center comes up, unless it's not working correctly. If you look at the hub on your truck you can take that snap ring out and you should be able to pull that threaded piece out. That threaded piece is actually 2 pieces and if you look at it you will notice that when you push on it, it engages the axle. I would guess that either the plastic hub piece may be broken or maybe you have some ice in the hub that's keeping it from engaging.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Red97350
Look at the hub piece that is in your hand there and turn the "****" from free to lock. You should notice that the plastic piece in the center comes up, unless it's not working correctly. If you look at the hub on your truck you can take that snap ring out and you should be able to pull that threaded piece out. That threaded piece is actually 2 pieces and if you look at it you will notice that when you push on it, it engages the axle. I would guess that either the plastic hub piece may be broken or maybe you have some ice in the hub that's keeping it from engaging.
I thinki it is mud... not ice, but I am not completely sure... I will dig into it further tommorow.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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if the t-case is in 4wd then the front shaft and rear shaft will be moving together so you won't be able to spin it.

Can you spin the front shaft with the t-case in neutral and the hubs locked in?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
if the t-case is in 4wd then the front shaft and rear shaft will be moving together so you won't be able to spin it.

Can you spin the front shaft with the t-case in neutral and the hubs locked in?
yes i can spin the front shaft with the t case in neutral or in 2wd and the hubs in the lcoked position.

I cannot move the front shaft, if i have the t case in 4x4 high or low.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Clean em and lube them up. Reinstall. You can go to Warns but if yours are working OK I'd leave em on there.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:09 AM
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The pictures look like they are really dry. Warn hubs are good, as are mile-marker, but if you don't have the money right now take it apart, clean them up and grease them really well.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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Well I could not get the passenger side out... LOL it is in there REALLY GOOD. so im going to use my pulley puller once it warms up to completely fix it...

I did get it to go into 4x4 though... i worked the passenger side hub with WD40, and that was lighting it on fire with the torch... it got enough back in the back there that I was able to work the hub loose and make it so it would engage. So I squirted a teflon lube in that one, and that will hold me over til I can actually get if fixed completely.

We have had a total of 26" where I am at in two days... today I woke up with 9 inches on the truck.... I warmed the glow plugs for about 25-30 seconds and started cranking, and it started right up! I think not plugging it in this winter will work just fine! I have a personal goal not to plug it in at all this winter...
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 11:59 PM
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I just changed out the hubs on a 96 gasser not too long ago and IIRC the warn standards were going for about $100 my price and the premiums w/ the metal actuaters that make the 350* rotation were going at $120. That was at 4WP here in town, Napa sells the same ones under there balkamp brand at around $200. If you look real good $100 is about as cheap as youll find anywhere here in town, so for $20 more might as well get the better ones. If you need me to set a deal up for you give me a call.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 12:02 AM
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At the moment, I think I can just clean and re gear oil my hubs and I should be all set... I just got to get that passenger side one out, but that shouldnt be an issue once it warms up a bit.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT
At the moment, I think I can just clean and re gear oil my hubs and I should be all set... I just got to get that passenger side one out, but that shouldnt be an issue once it warms up a bit.
"Gear oil" You realize these are greased not oiled right? and they dont need very much just enough on the splines to assist sliding in to engage, Also a trick to help pull the guts is to put the screws back in without the face and use them to rock it out.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Oversize
"Gear oil" You realize these are greased not oiled right? and they dont need very much just enough on the splines to assist sliding in to engage, Also a trick to help pull the guts is to put the screws back in without the face and use them to rock it out.
I tried the rocking it out with the screws... I tried for a little while this morning til I finally gave up on taking it out, but just making it work for now....


But yes they are supposed to be greased, but one of my friends swears by using gear oil instead... I have heard of it before, but never thought of it til, Mikey said something about it.

Gear oil seems like it would work, guess i will find out.
 
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