, must be the added 1cfm of added air?
3.5" or 4" downpipe
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3.5" or 4" downpipe
I have a 2004 Ex. with 6.0 and looking at changing the stock exhaust. I notice a lot of kits offer 3.5" or 4" turbo down pipe. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the two sizes? Thanks.
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From: Ohio
I installed the 3.5 when things were just getting started, the 4 inch offered at the time would bump or hit the firewall. 4 inch would flow a little more, 3.5 has some back pressure for bottom end performance. My truck is an 03 and people comment on the "no lag" when they drive mine.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
And most articles on building a HP 6.0 only suggest using a 3.5" DP even on the really high horsepower builds. Unless you're going to do some REALLY nasty stuff to your motor then 3.5" is more than sufficient to 500+ hp.
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Thanks for the information. I have another question....What experiences have you guys had with warranty issues when you install an aftermarket exhaust? Does the dealer try to void your warranty on the motor if you change the exhaust? I haven't had a chance to talk to my local dealership yet to see what they say.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
well exhaust alone be a reason to cancle an engine warr. the awnser is no but...
the but means that if the exhaust caused the issue then yes we can. most every dealer will overlook exhaust mods. notice I said most. theres a lot of factors built in such as to what a dealer will do and when. things like the 126 report, work load number vs number of techs (i know when were slow wich is not to often well do more crap work just to make money), managent issues and who is visting the dealer that day that your truck is in a stall. as noone want to to things when theres an fse in the shop.
Also any signs of other mods add to the compound of what a dealer wont do or will do.
I know as a tech I will look for more mods once I see a down pipe has been added. One of the big one I look for is the zoodad mod if I have an engine that I suspect has blowby problems.
this brings up another pet pev of mine please do not mod to an aftermarket air intake. they all prety much suck IMO. the best air filter is the stock unit by a long shot.
the but means that if the exhaust caused the issue then yes we can. most every dealer will overlook exhaust mods. notice I said most. theres a lot of factors built in such as to what a dealer will do and when. things like the 126 report, work load number vs number of techs (i know when were slow wich is not to often well do more crap work just to make money), managent issues and who is visting the dealer that day that your truck is in a stall. as noone want to to things when theres an fse in the shop.
Also any signs of other mods add to the compound of what a dealer wont do or will do.
I know as a tech I will look for more mods once I see a down pipe has been added. One of the big one I look for is the zoodad mod if I have an engine that I suspect has blowby problems.
this brings up another pet pev of mine please do not mod to an aftermarket air intake. they all prety much suck IMO. the best air filter is the stock unit by a long shot.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
lol see the zoodad mod says a little bit. That mod has more to do with looking for an issue that would be caused by an aftermarlet airfilter.
and to further that statement a bigger hole to let water in and more road dirt (even the one cfm). but mostly the first reason.
and to further that statement a bigger hole to let water in and more road dirt (even the one cfm). but mostly the first reason.
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Posting Guru
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From: Coal Country, ND
OK, I see what you're saying, one mod leads to another. From what we've all read (and have beaten into or heads) the stock filter setup is more than adequate.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
yup you got it....
Besides the thing I hate the most is trying to dig the aftermarket ones out. the stock air box is the easist to work with for us. the rest just dont fit right.
Ill have to dig up some info on dusting a diesel engine and post it up.
Besides the thing I hate the most is trying to dig the aftermarket ones out. the stock air box is the easist to work with for us. the rest just dont fit right.
Ill have to dig up some info on dusting a diesel engine and post it up.
Posting Guru
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From: Coal Country, ND
I hate to hi-jack here but.................................
Seriously, the stock air filter flat out sucks to remove. I know for a fact that I'm not the only one that KNOWS this. I've seen plenty of aftermarket systems that have to be easier.
Seriously, the stock air filter flat out sucks to remove. I know for a fact that I'm not the only one that KNOWS this. I've seen plenty of aftermarket systems that have to be easier.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
lol man you just dont know how to do it. out in less the a min and in in two.
first loosen the rad cap to vent any pressure.
next remove the small hose off the radiator that goes to the degas.
remove the airfilter minder
disconnect the maf/iat1
loosen the worn clamp next to the ccv in the valve cover and remove the whole air filter and the boot at the front as one unit.
seperate outside the truck and replace filter
reassemble and reinstall.
tring to get it apart in the truck is a joke and I wount fight that.
first loosen the rad cap to vent any pressure.
next remove the small hose off the radiator that goes to the degas.
remove the airfilter minder
disconnect the maf/iat1
loosen the worn clamp next to the ccv in the valve cover and remove the whole air filter and the boot at the front as one unit.
seperate outside the truck and replace filter
reassemble and reinstall.
tring to get it apart in the truck is a joke and I wount fight that.
Posting Guru
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From: Moyock, NC
Would have to agree with cheezit...loosen the screw clamp attached to the turbo inlet, unbuckle the two front clips on the filter box, unplug the map sensor connector and air minder, giver her a yank and she comes right out...maybe 1.5 minutes...cheezit's faster than me.
Have a question about the 4" downpipe. Just put on a 4" down pipe system, no cat, full flow muffler. It seems I now have no initial bottom end. Sounds sweet, but lags like a ***** at take off and low rpms speeds....what's up? I thought I'd see better power and fuel eco, but I'm right about the same on fuel (according to lie-o-meter) maybe 1 mpg less and the boost is like 20/25 psi when getting up to speed 65-70mph....I'm sure I'm realizing the main benefit in doing this mod...lower EGTs, but I want the other two as well....is something wrong with my diagnosis?
Have a question about the 4" downpipe. Just put on a 4" down pipe system, no cat, full flow muffler. It seems I now have no initial bottom end. Sounds sweet, but lags like a ***** at take off and low rpms speeds....what's up? I thought I'd see better power and fuel eco, but I'm right about the same on fuel (according to lie-o-meter) maybe 1 mpg less and the boost is like 20/25 psi when getting up to speed 65-70mph....I'm sure I'm realizing the main benefit in doing this mod...lower EGTs, but I want the other two as well....is something wrong with my diagnosis?
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Checked with my local dealer over the past weekend and they told me that Ford has really cracked down lately on aftermarket parts on their diesels. He advised me not to touch anything until the warranty has expired. I guess i'll have to wait for new exhaust.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Moyock, NC
