Bad oxygen sensor
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Senior User
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From: Germantown, MD
Bad oxygen sensor
I used a BOB on my truck last week and discovered that my O2 is reading .030V in and out of the computer regardless of rpm with the engine warm. Any recommendations on a new O2 sensor? There are many options ranging from a $16 Bosh to a $90 Ford Racing sensor. I assume Motorcraft or Ford Racing would be the best, but is the brand or price really important?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
Bosch is the Original equipment manufacturer for the O2 sensors back in the day. The original on mine was stamped. "Motorcraft, MFG: by Bosch".
If you get the Bosch OE one, it should work the same as the motorcraft one.
If you get the Bosch OE one, it should work the same as the motorcraft one.
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From: Germantown, MD
Hmm I didn't know that. That's interesting. So, the $16 dollar Bosch should do just fine then. Thanks, I appreciate it.
After towing a '69 VW bug on a car dolly today my truck has not wanted to idle. It idles really rough and keeps stalling in Drive. I am suspicious of my IAC valve, or TPS sensor. I'll change the O2 and go from there.
After towing a '69 VW bug on a car dolly today my truck has not wanted to idle. It idles really rough and keeps stalling in Drive. I am suspicious of my IAC valve, or TPS sensor. I'll change the O2 and go from there.
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From: Germantown, MD
I discovered that the vacuum line going to my EGR had melted on the heat riser pipe. I repaired the vac line and needless to say the truck idles much better.
I am considering switching to a 3 wire (heated) O2 sensor. I am thinking a heated O2 would work better since I relocated the O2 farther away from the engine when I switched to headers. It is now located in the reducer of my passenger side header collector. All I would have to do is connect the signal wire, connect a ground, and connect a hot in run power source. Am I over thinking, or would this conversion be worth doing?
I am considering switching to a 3 wire (heated) O2 sensor. I am thinking a heated O2 would work better since I relocated the O2 farther away from the engine when I switched to headers. It is now located in the reducer of my passenger side header collector. All I would have to do is connect the signal wire, connect a ground, and connect a hot in run power source. Am I over thinking, or would this conversion be worth doing?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD
I discovered that the vacuum line going to my EGR had melted on the heat riser pipe. I repaired the vac line and needless to say the truck idles much better.
I am considering switching to a 3 wire (heated) O2 sensor. I am thinking a heated O2 would work better since I relocated the O2 farther away from the engine when I switched to headers. It is now located in the reducer of my passenger side header collector. All I would have to do is connect the signal wire, connect a ground, and connect a hot in run power source. Am I over thinking, or would this conversion be worth doing?
I am considering switching to a 3 wire (heated) O2 sensor. I am thinking a heated O2 would work better since I relocated the O2 farther away from the engine when I switched to headers. It is now located in the reducer of my passenger side header collector. All I would have to do is connect the signal wire, connect a ground, and connect a hot in run power source. Am I over thinking, or would this conversion be worth doing?
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