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The way I've figure it out, different configurations have different spacers between the springs and axles.
4x2 f250 = no spacer
4x4 f250 = 2" spacer on rear ? on front
4x4 SRW f350 = 4" spacer on rear ? on front
4x2 SRW f350 = ?? on rear
anyway, long story short...
My B&W turnoverball runs the risk of tapping the differential housing when the ball is upside down and I'm loaded (or hit a large bump too fast). According to the B&W literature, this is only a problem on the 4x2. The way I see it, this is because of the absense of the spacer.
What would happen if I were to simply add 2" spacers to the rear of my 4x2? How much would that require I change my front alignment if at all?
if you raise the rear only it shouldnt play a big role on the front suspension other than loading it with a slight weight shift forward. i would assume that you could do f250 4x4 block in the rear and 2" spacers on the coils up front and get a all around lift. then you might need to have the alignment checked
What would happen if I were to simply add 2" spacers to the rear of my 4x2? How much would that require I change my front alignment if at all?
If you add the F250 4x4 lift block (spacer) you'd probably get a pretty good rake going on when you're unloaded. This is what the rear suspension looks like on my '09 (although it's flexed out crossing a berm). Notice the spacer.
You might consider leveling out the front, because I forsee the rear block, by itself, putting the back of the truck too high for an unloaded condition. The front allignment shouldn't change if all you do is lift the back. My $.02
As you noted, you'll lose almost a degree of caster. Depending on your current alignment, this may or may not be noticeable. Loaded, the blocks will probably put you back close to your previously unloaded specs.
Personally, I don't think adding the blocks would be a bad deal overall.
You could probably throw a jack under your hitch with some blocking and use a tape measure to jack the rear end up two inches, then see how it would look while unloaded and see if you would be satisfied with the way it looks or not.
These are the threads I remember on block swaps. Parts #s are pre 08, but the info and install is the same. And this would be a great excuse to put caster shims into the front end, and tighten up your steering in general. Those shouldn't be too hard to put in, and from what I hear really help out. I'm doing the 4" block swap/ 2" front with shims on my 250 here pretty soon.
The easiest way to correct the ball from hitting the housing would be to simply...take the turnover ball out and store it in the truck.
I don't leave my ball in the hitch unless I am going to be using it. When you consider how easy it is for someone to steal your turnover ball and the price to purchase a replacement, it just makes sense to not tempt anyones honesty.
The easiest way to correct the ball from hitting the housing would be to simply...take the turnover ball out and store it in the truck.
I don't leave my ball in the hitch unless I am going to be using it. When you consider how easy it is for someone to steal your turnover ball and the price to purchase a replacement, it just makes sense to not tempt anyones honesty.
I don't want to leave the slot empty, nor do I want anti-seize in my cab.
I have NEVER heard of somebody losing a gooseneck hitch to theft and will play the odds on that one.
With the type of anti-seize I use, I hope the theif likes grey...ON EVERYTHING.
And this would be a great excuse to put caster shims into the front end
Caster shims? do you have a 4x2 or a 4x4? How exactly would caster shims work on a Twin I Beam?
There are two sets of holes to connect the leg of the beams... the beams are also not one piece anymore!... mine are connected to the higher & shorter hole, there is another hole that is about 1/2" lower and 2" back.
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