I have a 1978 f250 I purchased recently, and I am having trouble identifying what axles I have. I looked all over the axle tubes and couldn't find the bom #. I was hoping you all could help me identify what axles I have. Im pretty sure its a dana 60 rear, and dana 44 front that has dana 60 internals (if that makes sense?). and yes, i know, there are some othe issues down there..

 

 

You definitely have a Dana 60 rear axle-The front axle is a Dana 44 high pinion.Not sure what you are referring to on the Dana 60 internals-all model 44 front axles of this vintage use the 30 spline inner shafts!Bill of material #'s should be stamped on axle tubes per diagram on previous post-Look closely for a 6 digit # starting with a 6 followed by a dash then 1 or 2 additional numbers. (numbers are about 1/8" high) Good luck!

 

You deffinately have a D44 front, high pinion open knuckle, disc brake front axle. The rear is simply a run of the mill 30 spline full floater dana 60.
I dont understand the D60 internal statement. Dana 60 parts do not fit insode of a Dana 44.

The diagram is a little on the interesting side. Look closely and you will read that the BOM is on the long side tube. This is correct, the pic is of a pass side drop axle, so the BOM you are looking for is behind the stabilizer shocks that you have on there.
Scrape some of the oil and dirt off of the axle tube and you will find it, if you still feel that you have to.

 

ok, thats what I thought, just needed confirmation. I want a 60 up front though and I am looking to purchase one. Do I have to find a dana 60 front from 1978 or can I buy a new one? What are my options? does getting a new front axle include changing the axle tubes and the differential? this is my first experiance with this..

 

Everyone wants a Dana 60!
You only have two choices:
78/9 dana 60 F. Thats it if you want it to be a bolt in deal. After the 79, the axles spring pad dimensions changed and are wider than our frames. This requires some fabrication to solve. Many are not up to this task.

Couple of concerns:
Steering and the front driveshaft. The Dana 60 is quite a bit larger than the D44, so the driveshaft for the Dana 44 is too long and will have to be modified to fit.
This might be a good time to lift the vehicle and tackle some upgraded steering.
Stock steering in these trucks is of a poor design.

Your swap will start out like this:



Interesting part is that your calipers are the same, so you can leave them hanging on the frame and bolt them right up to the D60. You wont have to even bleed the brakes for this part of the installation.

 

I am up to the task if it is required to get what i want, but first i need to know, is there any difference in quality or reliability between the 78/9 d60 and the later models?

 

The difference is in the spring perch spacing. Our era trucks have a narrower frame than the later model ones.
If you are asking questions about this install, you are not quite ready to take on the task of installing a later model axle under an early truck.
Quality? They are the same axles. Later model axles do have stronger inner shafts, but share similar 30 spline outer shafts (weak link on all dana 60 F's).
You will find axles up until 92 that will still be a KP design, but these still have a wider spring perch spacing and a differential that is closer to the driver side than the 78/9 axle.
After 92 the axle went to a ball joint design so you wont be using this along with crossover steering without changing the pass side knuckle.. This is expensive and not worth the effort. This axle still has the same spring perch spacing problem so once again, this is a battle not worth fighting.
For 99 to 04 axles, these are now metric and use unit style bearings. The WMS is not quite the same, and you once again fight the same spld spring perch problem, as well as the others mentioned above. Finding this axle for free would still not justify its use.
After 04, you run into coil spring and radius arm front ends, so add up all of the issues above, factor in that there are no leaf spring perches, and you have an axle that is virtually worthless in the application you intend to use.

When you consider that every other axle other than the 78/9 will require some work to fit, it becomes a little more clear why the 78/9 is a little more expensive, but so justified.
Sometimes it is less expensive to spend more money and get the better axle.
The 78/9 front axle is desirable because it bolts in like it was made for the 78/9 truck,,,,,,,oh wait,,,,,,it was.............

Read some of the posts regarding this swap. This comes up at least once a month or more. The replies are all the same, and since the later model axles are so much easier to find, most think that they will just get one and cheap out. Well, there is more to i than meets the eye. The 78/9 axle will easily go under the later model truck, but the later model axles will not go under the early truck without some serious modification.
If fabrication os your thing, then making some spring hangers and modified shackle mounts should not be a problem, the later model axle can be a snap, but it is not for sooooo many that have tried.
I have seen some pretty incredible attempt too. None I have seen are truly very attractive. Functional perhaps, but not attractive, so its up to the owner really.

 

thank you for all the great information this helps a lot

 

is it possible to make my d44 front axle strong enough to handle 38s and heavy wheelin?

 

Many factors have to be taken into consideration. That is vehicle weight, tire type, or design, type of wheelin, whether or not you will run a locked diff, and horsepower.
A light weight higher horsepower vehicle is less likely to spit parts than a lower horsepower vehicle that weighs more.
Trail rides can be brutal on parts, especiall when a locker is used.

Can your D44 be used? Sure it can, but with any 38" tire and your mention of heavy wheeling, it will only be a matter of time until it breaks. It will, but when it does depends upon your right foot.
I sure do appreaciate the piece of mind, knowing that when I need to throttle down, my components are ready, and willing to play. It is a terribly uneasy feeling when you go off road, and wonder if today will be the day that the front end blows up. WIth larger components, this is not as much of a factor.
Can you get away with a smaller axle? Sure you can, but the reliability and the odds of it survicing are not as great.
Then consider how much you might spend trying to get the D44 to be strong enough to survive, and then consider spending it a second time when the 44 does not work, and you end up building a 60 anyway.
Ask me how I know about this.............
Try to sell the components of a D44 after they have been used. Heak just try to get 1/3 of the money you spent on a D44, and you will be doing good.
Add all of the costs and you will see why buying the larger axle up front is a far better choice the first time around.

 

what should I be looking at paying for a d60 f off of an old beat up truck that is being parted out, and what should I expect to pay for one in good condition? Also, to help in my seach, which vehicles came equipped with a 78/79 d60 f?

 

78/9 F250 snow fighters or the 79F350, thats it.
I paid 1700 dollars for my last axle. I have seen them sell for much less, but they are fairly expensive.
Still worth every penny.

 

There's been threads in the past where a few guys claimed the 78/79 HP60 could be had for as little as a few hundred dollars in their area, that may or may not be so but it's never been my experience, expect to pay between $1,000-$1,500 unless you come across an unknowing seller.