Blown H/G
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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Blown H/G
Alrighty, well it finally happened. The Dealership is extremely nice about it. I am having no problems at all with them. He mentioned Head studs. I found some on Ebay. The title says "
Brand New ARP Head Studs for Ford 02+ 6.0L Powerstroke" "ARP Part # 250-4202 -- Includes all Studs, Washers and Nuts"
Is this information correct? He told me I need to get them here in two days so he can finish the job by next Tuesday. Is there anything else I need to order? This is my one chance to get the job done right and I don't want to miss it. Thank you for the future information.
Brand New ARP Head Studs for Ford 02+ 6.0L Powerstroke" "ARP Part # 250-4202 -- Includes all Studs, Washers and Nuts"
Is this information correct? He told me I need to get them here in two days so he can finish the job by next Tuesday. Is there anything else I need to order? This is my one chance to get the job done right and I don't want to miss it. Thank you for the future information.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Actually... I would love an EGR/Cooler delete. I just don't know where to start on one. Which is best; To remove it completely, or just block it off? I would love to get it outa the way. And now is certainly the best time. Thanks for the information.
4wd High
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ok, I'm a noobie...but I will tell you what I know and have seen work:
1) I put a $1.78 freeze plug in the end of the egr cooler at the point where the cooler is bolted to the "T" pipe coming off the exhaust manifold; Left EGR valve in place and plugged in. Engine runs cooler, no dtc's, no check engine light. No exhaust enters this anymore, so if it leaks water, no big deal.......unless it is a lot. No sure long term if this is the way to go.
2) I bought an egr delete kit from Cobbs Diesel Performance. This is a more professional method. You get plates to block off the EGR valve; and you get a water hose pipe to complete that circuit; you also get a new up pipe from the exhaust manifold that has no "t" in it. You have to reprogram truck to clear code....(which I have not got working yet, but still working on it.)
Good luck in your decision and let me know if you learn anythings
1) I put a $1.78 freeze plug in the end of the egr cooler at the point where the cooler is bolted to the "T" pipe coming off the exhaust manifold; Left EGR valve in place and plugged in. Engine runs cooler, no dtc's, no check engine light. No exhaust enters this anymore, so if it leaks water, no big deal.......unless it is a lot. No sure long term if this is the way to go.
2) I bought an egr delete kit from Cobbs Diesel Performance. This is a more professional method. You get plates to block off the EGR valve; and you get a water hose pipe to complete that circuit; you also get a new up pipe from the exhaust manifold that has no "t" in it. You have to reprogram truck to clear code....(which I have not got working yet, but still working on it.)
Good luck in your decision and let me know if you learn anythings
