as of lately every time i come to a stop my 2007 expy makes a loud squeeking noise when i brake. what could it be?

 

Could be the wear indicator on your brake pads. I would pull a front and rear tires and inspect. How many miles?

 

I had to replace my rear brakes at 40000 on my 2007, check them they may be worn.

Mark

 

the front brakes look pretty worn. the rears are fine. what brand do you guys suggest?

 

You will get a lot of opinions on this matter. I would stay away from the cheapest Pep Boys specials. If it were my truck I would put on OEM pads. The original pads are very quiet. Some aftermarket metallic pads are noisy and 'crunchy'. Also, resurface the rotors and at the very least, sand them clean on both sides.

I see the Motorcraft front pads at Rockauto.com for $53. Not a bad price when the aftermarkets start in the $40's.

 

what about the duralast brand from auto zone?

 

Junk IMO. There are a lot of bad reviews on them.

 

Just put Napa ceramics on mine. I had to replace the rotors also because I had gotten the dreaded wobble after a road trip we took. The pads still had life left, but I am hoping the ceramics will cut down on dust also and maybe give me some more life. I went with ceramics after exasperating searches on this forum. I may differ in opinion here, but I have not had good experiences with getting rotors turned on Fords. (rotors were only $55/ea brand new - not sure if you can get them turned for that much). Pads were $95. A few people on hear swear by akebono's, but I did not want to wait for shipping and Napa has always been fair to me. Mike.

 

Here is a good article on warped rotors.
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

 

Does your caliper piston boots look cracked or have excesive oil speepage on them? Does it only squeel when your coming to a slow easy stop? Or does it do it all the time regardless of how you stop? Pull off your pads and see if its really glossy on the bottom of the pad, if so you have glazed your pad. There is a way to cure that I think, but Ive always just replaced them if that happens. Also, try not to pad slap on your old rotors. Be sure to either buy new rotors or get them turned. I dont reconmend on turning your rotors though, they will warp much easier and you've just tossed 30 bux out the window for nothing.

 

I disagree with this. If your rotors are turned correctly, and you don't abuse your brakes, you shouldn't get uneven pad material buildup. That is caused by excessive heat-lead footed braking.

 

Ceramic Brake Linings: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction.

VelveTouch- a line that Hawk just bought from Wellman Industries. VelveTouch lining has been used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years.

CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.

I highly recommend speaking to suppliers by phone for linings that would be best for your application.

With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel. Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc). They purchase the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. They will also slot and cross drill the rotors for you- if that's your "thing". Their service, price and quality is excellent as well.

For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made.

 

I second the cheese grater rotors. Eye candy at best.