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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

moving air issues

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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:52 PM
  #16  
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I am not to worried bout my setup.
I worrie about my turbo. I don't know how much "play" is acceptibal in the wheel. Probably should rebuild it with some new bushings.

But, going to stage 1's and a chip here.
I have 3 inch dp and 3367.
I'm sure I'll be fine. I've never heard any wierd noises slowing down. All I can hear are my injectors rattling. haha.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #17  
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From: Ashland City, TN
I am not to worried bout my setup.
I worrie about my turbo. I don't know how much "play" is acceptibal in the wheel. Probably should rebuild it with some new bushings.

But, going to stage 1's and a chip here.
I have 3 inch dp and 3367.
I'm sure I'll be fine. I've never heard any wierd noises slowing down. All I can hear are my injectors rattling. haha.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #18  
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we only rip every 5 to 10 depending on clay content. and ground coming out of crp programs. turbo till everything else sometimes disc before turbo tilling
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 03:41 PM
  #19  
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tatsch what is the best way to check my turbo for bearing failure so i can check it from time to time and take preventative measures before this does happen? i been planning on pulling the cat out and putting a piece of pipe in its place. would you suggest flex or hard pipe? cause i can get thin wall electrical conduit same size as exhaust for free to weld in there. kitty is gonna say bye bye asap. ain't no use in puttin it back in. no emissions checks for a good 90 mile radius around where i live
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by thumper869
tatsch what is the best way to check my turbo for bearing failure so i can check it from time to time and take preventative measures before this does happen? i been planning on pulling the cat out and putting a piece of pipe in its place. would you suggest flex or hard pipe? cause i can get thin wall electrical conduit same size as exhaust for free to weld in there. kitty is gonna say bye bye asap. ain't no use in puttin it back in. no emissions checks for a good 90 mile radius around where i live


pull the intake hose off and grab the shaft of the compressor wheel and move it up and down, side to side, and in and out. in and out play is not good. there should a be a LITTLE bit of side to side/up and down play. not enough to allow the wheel to touch the housing though. if you can tell its touching the housing rebuild or go bigger. you will feel a slight amount of play though.



on the exhaust i would go actual exhaust pipe over flex. just cut the factory flange that bolts to the downpipe off the cat and weld it onto whatever you decide to use in there so you can still unbolt the dp. if you can replace the dp do so, but i'm just saying i didn't and didn't notice any harmful noises, turbo stall, or anything like that. just the egts got hot quicker
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #21  
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alright thanks for the info on checkin the turbo. i'll prob get out the cheapest way possible and maybe i'll find somebody close by thats got some exhaust pipe layin around to use. they don't emissions test around here but the epa hammers pretty hard on muffler shops checkin to see if they been cuttin cats and mufflers off of trucks and straight pipin em
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #22  
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Here is a good article on why moving air not only in the engine but also out of the engine is equally important. It's for gas engines however it also pertains to diesels. Easy reading and quite informative, I thought.

Banks Power | Airflow - The Secret To Making Power
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 11:07 PM
  #23  
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From: Ashland City, TN
Thanks for the article Jim.

Just remember with a gasser, back pressure is important.
with a diesel, back pressure is bad.
Thats why the DP needs to be replaced. To much backpressure for performance. For everyday grandpa driving, its fine.
 
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