I have an 84 F150 4x4 351 V-8. The front brake pads were shot so i picked up some new ones at Checker. No trouble getting the caliper off the passenger side. The new inner pad is a tight fit with the anti-rattle spring but it did go in.

Here's the problem: I can barely get the caliper back onto the rotor with the new pads in place. It goes on but there is no clearance between the pads and the rotor. The caliper support spring and key went back in fine, but I can barely turn the rotor by hand.

I did use a big C-clamp to push the piston into the caliper as instructed in the Haynes book. I think I got it all the way in. The rotor does not appear to be warped or scored.

Is it normal with brand new pads for them to rub on the rotor like this? I put the tire back on and I can spin it, but I have to push fairly hard and I can hear the pads dragging. Seems like last time I replaced the pads on a car, I could spin the tire freely after I put things back together...

 

It should not be that hard to turn. I would check it again, and make sure the piston is properly seated.

 

I'd drive it around for a few miles then jackl it back up and see how it feels

 

Make sure to lube the slides that the caliper mounts in with high temp grease or never-seize. The caliper has to be able to move in the mount to work properly. If one of your old pads was worn a lot thinner than the other, then that is a sign the caliper was locked up in the mount.

 

When installing front brake pads you should do ALL YOU CAN to make sure all the sliding pieces of the caliper mechanism can slide FREELY!!!

When you finish installing the brakes ... you should have NO DRAG ON THE WHEEL WHAT SO EVER!

DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK UNLESS YOU HAVE NO DRAG ON THE WHEEL UNLESS THE BRAKE PEDAL IS APPLIED.

Clean ALL mating surfaces of the spindle assembly (caliper mount), brake caliper, Caliper Key and Spring (that's the thingie that you had to take the bolt out of ...and then hammer and drift out so you could remove the caliper).

Clean ALL of the surfaces of these components ... where they rub on each other ... Remove ALL RUST AND GRIME until you can see shiny metal!!!! I use a scotch loc pad and a bench mounted wire wheel ... but you can use emery paper or steel wool.

Then apply a LIGHT COAT of anti-seize to the surfaces of these parts that touch each other ... just a LITTLE goes a long way!

DO NOT GET ANTI-SIEZE ON THE BRAKING SURFACES OF THE BRAKE PADS OR THE ROTORS!!!!!

If you do ... clean it with Brake Clean.

Before you retract the piston into the caliper with a C clamp ... open the bleeder ... this will do 2 things ....

1) make it a bit easier to push the piston in

2) dispose of that old nasty gunky brake fluid that in there ... you do NOT want that old fluid to go into the Master Cylinder. Brake fluid DOES go bad!

When done cleaning and lubing everything ... assemble the brakes (both sides) ... and with the Truck still off the ground ... press and release the brake pedal a number of times ... to pump the piston back out of the caliper ... and try to spin the wheel by hand.

Both front wheels should spin freely.


So why do we do all this?

Rust will prevent the brake pads from retracting away from the rotor ... ANY DRAG will give premature brake pad wear ... AT THE LEAST!!!

Rust can/will cause a pull to left or right under braking.