Mister trailer gurus...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,314
Likes: 4
Mister trailer gurus...
Here's a pic of my latest Ooops 
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...222004&width=0
It's a 5'x10' utility trailer that I got cheap 5 years ago and used to haul around lawn mower,etc..
to the shop, etc... but last few months left it loaded with leaves/limbs that were to go to the dump.... big mistake
Now the boards are rotted out and require replacing...
Looks like about 10 or so 2x6x10 foot boards running long ways that were put in there and then the end cap welded on....
IF I replace it with boards,
could probably cut them in half and push into slots on either end
then secure over the middle support,
but wonder what my other options are....
Do I go back in with pressure treated 2x6's?
do I go wider like 2x10 or 12 ?
Do I seal them with stain or paint ???
Do I opt for a metal wire floor like on the ramp which will require more support cross members ?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...222003&width=0
Appreciate your input...
TIA, JD
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...222004&width=0
It's a 5'x10' utility trailer that I got cheap 5 years ago and used to haul around lawn mower,etc..
to the shop, etc... but last few months left it loaded with leaves/limbs that were to go to the dump.... big mistake
Now the boards are rotted out and require replacing...
Looks like about 10 or so 2x6x10 foot boards running long ways that were put in there and then the end cap welded on....
IF I replace it with boards,
could probably cut them in half and push into slots on either end
then secure over the middle support,
but wonder what my other options are....
Do I go back in with pressure treated 2x6's?
do I go wider like 2x10 or 12 ?
Do I seal them with stain or paint ???
Do I opt for a metal wire floor like on the ramp which will require more support cross members ?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...222003&width=0
Appreciate your input...
TIA, JD
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,375
Likes: 1,861
From: Frederick, MD
I would replace the whole thing. Do yourself a favor, buy pressure treated and before you put them on, but some oil based paint and pour it on heavy, both sides. Once dry then put them on. Bet it will be the last time.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 7
From: Burnsville, MN
Well, if you do get pressure treated, the boards will probably be soaking wet with preservative. Then, if you paint/stain, you'll be wasting your time because the paint won't stick.
Also, if you wait for the boards to dry first, they may well "pretzel" up on you into various wild and wonderful shapes.
So if you use pressure treated wood, I would recommend putting the boards into position and fastening them down, without painting them. Then wait. At some time in the future you'll be able to spill water on the wood, and watch it suck into the wood. If you paint it then, the paint will be absorbed into the wood. Otherwise, any hard object (like a log) will just scrape the paint off the floor.
Also, if you wait for the boards to dry first, they may well "pretzel" up on you into various wild and wonderful shapes.
So if you use pressure treated wood, I would recommend putting the boards into position and fastening them down, without painting them. Then wait. At some time in the future you'll be able to spill water on the wood, and watch it suck into the wood. If you paint it then, the paint will be absorbed into the wood. Otherwise, any hard object (like a log) will just scrape the paint off the floor.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 7
From: Burnsville, MN
Actually, I threw some 1/2" treated plywood on a trailer and painted it with Rustoleum (I know, its for metal) and left it in the weather for 4 or 5 summers (not winters) and it worked just fine. Now I never left a stack of leaves on it, but it was definitely out in the rain.
In fact, the galvanized screws failed before the plywood....
In fact, the galvanized screws failed before the plywood....
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
If you cut the 2x's about 1" longer than the distance between the steel that holds them in you should be able to slide one end under the steel then drop it in place.Then center it up and you'll have 1/2" holding it down on each side.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
I would go with pressure treated lumber rated for in-ground contact. Treat only the cut ends with oil base sealer at this time. At the end of next summer once the lumber has cured use a Hudson sprayer to apply an oil based fence stain/sealer. It would be best if you removed the boards and sprayed all 4 sides and the ends when sealing it and don't scrimp on the sealer. Use plenty so it soaks into the wood.
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